Is There Such a Thing as a Perfect Building Envelope?
The insulation method proposed by this GBA reader requires a lot of foam
Insulation on the Outside
Creating an air barrier at the sheathing level and insulating on the exterior with rigid foam insulation is key to the PERSIST and REMOTE building strategies as well as Andrew Homoly's "perfect" building envelope.Is there such a thing as a perfect building envelopeExterior components of a house that provide protection from colder (and warmer) outdoor temperatures and precipitation; includes the house foundation, framed exterior walls, roof or ceiling, and insulation, and air sealing materials.? One that could be mass-produced from readily available materials, and be appropriate for 90% of all new homes?
Andrew Homoly thinks he’s found one, as he explains in this Q&A post at GreenBuildingAdvisor.
Here are the basic elements:
- A conventional foundation insulated with 2 in. of rigid foam on the outside.
- 2x6 walls sheathed with Zip System OSB with 2 in. of rigid foam on the outside and open-cell spray polyurethane foam in the stud bays.
- A roof sheathed with OSB, insulated on the exterior with 2 in. of rigid foam capped with another later of OSB sheathingMaterial, usually plywood or oriented strand board (OSB), but sometimes wooden boards, installed on the exterior of wall studs, rafters, or roof trusses; siding or roofing installed on the sheathing—sometimes over strapping to create a rainscreen. over furring strips.
- Soffit and fascia made from OSB sheathing, insulated on the exterior with 2 in. of rigid foam, and topped with furring strips and finish material.
It is this last detail, the insulated and vented soffit and fascia, that has Homoly thinking he’s nailed it. He calls his approach the Homoly-Pedley Perfect Envelope, sharing the credit with his framer, Mike Pedley, who came up with the soffit/fascia detail.
“Note the ‘gap’ goes all the way up the wall, around the soffit, around the facia, and up the roof to the ridge vent,” Homoly writes. “Periodic vent strips could also be added in the soffit if desired. The entire home from foundation to wall to soffit to facia to roof is wrapped in an uninterrupted thermal envelope.
“I believe this system accomplishes multiple goals ... and could easily be mass-produced since it utilizes all common building techniques and materials.
“What do you think?”
Sorry, but it’s not especially new
Homoly’s plan hinges on establishing an air barrierBuilding assembly components that work as a system to restrict air flow through the building envelope. Air barriers may or may not act as a vapor barrier. The air barrier can be on the exterior, the interior of the assembly, or both. at the sheathing level. But as GBAGreenBuildingAdvisor.com senior editor Martin Holladay points out, that’s not a new idea. In fact, he says, it’s been the standard way of building PERSIST homes for decades.
“I think the air barrier details are improved if you follow the usual PERSIST recommendation of framing the house without any eave or rake overhangs, and running the rigid foam up the walls and over to the roof, with tape installed at the wall/roof intersection,” Holladay adds. “Once this is done, rake and eave overhangs can be built separately and scabbed onto the building, over the foam.”
He adds that bringing foam insulation around the soffits and fascia is “fussy and likely to increase air leakage rates,” and recommends a Journal of Light Construction article that explains how “applied overhangs” can be built.
Although Homoly likes the suggestion, he’s not sure it would work in his area because roof trusses that cantilever past the wall line are typical. Rigid foam on the walls would have to be cut around each truss.
And as to the notion that one building envelope could be used in 90% of new residential construction, don’t bet on it.
“The ‘Perfect Envelope’ will always be ‘it depends,’ ” writes Armando Cobo. “There are many different climate and humidity zones, building materials, insulations, WRBs, claddings, techniques, likes and dislikes, material preferences and availabilities that most be analyzed on how they interact with each other and therefore the solutions are different.”
“We are a very large and diverse country,” adds Albert Rooks. “We need more than one solution to a high quality envelope.”
Plus, there’s too much foam
Homoly’s plan relies heavily on foam — both sheets of rigid insulation on the roof and walls and open-cell spray foam in the stud bays. Although foam has excellent properties as a thermal insulator, it has several attributes that make it worrisome to green builders, including the blowing agents used to make it — some of which have a high global warming potential — and its petrochemical content.
“Your strategy contains WAY too much foam,” writes Brett Moyer. “... Foam is NOT green. Minimize its use whenever possible.”
Rooks also raises the same point: “Try doing the same project with no foam,” he writes. “Eliminating foam is important to some of us.”
But to AJ Builder, the argument doesn’t make much sense. “Nobody that owns fossil-fueled vehicles should advocate to others to be so green as to not insulate with foam,” he says. “...Foam is legal, and it is up to whomever to choose when and how to use it, in my opinion. Explain maybe how you feel about foam but then.... Let it go. Many people feel a product like foam is a much better use for dinosaur flesh than putting it in your F250 and burning it to drive to a NASCAR race.”
TJ Elder agrees that insulating is a better end-use for petroleum than motor vehicle fuel used for non essential purposes such as driving “around in circles at great speeds.” But he also sees the point that Rooks and Moyer are making.
“I also agree with Brett and Albert that less-foamy buildings are greener than extra-foamy buildings,” he writes. “Thinking green, it is better also to eat less meat (maybe some fish, no bear) and start backing away from fossil-fueled travel.
“May as well admit that with seven billion actors in this play, we should all be vegetarian bicyclists (using no foam or other petro products) to ensure health and happiness for our planet's inhabitants centuries into the future. Remember that everyone lived free of fossil energy for a thousand generations behind us, and life could continue just as far ahead of this present day.”
Our expert’s opinion
Here's what Peter Yost, GBA's technical director, had to say:
It just would not be right to discuss this without citing Joe Lstiburek’s “The Perfect Wall, Roof, and Slab.” A concrete (or concrete block) wall with all of the insulation to the exterior, pulling the structure pretty much into the conditioned spaceInsulated, air-sealed part of a building that is actively heated and/or cooled for occupant comfort. , is elegant. The R-valueMeasure of resistance to heat flow; the higher the R-value, the lower the heat loss. The inverse of U-factor. or thickness of the insulation is climate-driven, but the configuration of the assembly does not change. Depending on the insulation and finished surfaces or claddings, this assembly can dry to the interior, the exterior, or both.
The thermal massHeavy, high-heat-capacity material that can absorb and store a significant amount of heat; used in passive solar heating to keep the house warm at night. becomes an interior flywheel, buffering changes in both relative humidity and temperature. And the structure does not “care” if it gets wet; it won’t rust or rot.
Jim Sargent designed a house using Durisol blocks, exterior insulation, a variety of finishes on the exterior, and a clay plaster on the interior that was pretty much the perfect wall in my book. From both a building science and an environmental footprint perspective, the fly ashFine particulates consisting primarily of silica, alumina, and iron that are collected from flue gases during coal combustion. Flyash is employed as a substitute for some of the portland cement used in the making of concrete, producing a denser, stronger, and slower-setting material while eliminating a portion of the energy-intensive cement required. More info-laden concrete cores and blocks made of softwood and Portland cement are 500-year materials and walls.
And interestingly, on the first floor of my 100-year old home, we retrofitted the hollow concrete block (interior plaster and lath) with 3 in. of high-density spray foam, foam that serves as my continuous thermal barrier, air barrier, and drainage planePath that water would take over the building envelope. Concealed drainage-plane materials, such as building paper or housewrap, are designed to shed water that penetrates the building’s cladding. Drainage planes are installed to overlap in shingle fashion (weatherlap) so that water flows downward and away from the building envelope..
I just today took off several pieces of the clapboards to check on the insulation/air barrier/drainage plane. (I intentionally fastened much of this wall with stainless-steel trim screws so that I could easily remove the cladding to inspect the assembly over time). The spray foam and assembly is in perfect condition, still completely secured to both the block and furring to which the spray foam was applied. No deterioration, no shrinkage, no loss of adhesion. The spray foam was applied in the fall of 2002.
Do I wish that the blowing agent for this spray foam job was not 245fa, with a really high global warming potential (GWP)? Absolutely, but at 3 in. and R-20, I still feel the payback is reasonable and you can be sure that chemical companies worldwide are working on replacement blowing agents with much lower GWP.
There are also rigid insulations other than XPSExtruded polystyrene. Highly insulating, water-resistant rigid foam insulation that is widely used above and below grade, such as on exterior walls and underneath concrete floor slabs. In North America, XPS is made with ozone-depleting HCFC-142b. XPS has higher density and R-value and lower vapor permeability than EPS rigid insulation. to consider for the “perfect envelope.” Rigid mineral wool from Roxul, for example, and the more expensive Foamglas should be considered.
The key thing is that exterior insulation makes continuous air and thermal barriers possible and “warming” any building assembly reduces or eliminates moisture management issues in any climate.
And for complete information on all types of insulation, BuildingGreen has just released a special report on insulation. Scroll down a bit.
Mon, 10/17/2011 - 10:24
These summation blogs are
by aj builder, Upstate NY Zone 6a
These summation blogs are great and some like this one are fantastically full of useful information.
Keep up the great work.
Aj
Mon, 10/17/2011 - 10:37
Building Design
by Doug McEvers
A lot of building efficiency can be gained by good building design. Concentrate on low surface to volume ratios and minimize corners, both inside and out. A basic design that would be inherently efficient would be a walkout rambler dug into a hillside with the walkout and the majority of the glazing facing south.
To say you need a bunch of foam or SIPs to make a house efficient is just not true, I would only use foam where no other material will suffice, under the slab and the exterior of the foundation wall.
Mon, 10/17/2011 - 15:30
Context
by TJ Elder
Some of my comments here (eating bears, driving in circles) may seem nuts when taken out of the complete context. Confused readers should note that my post was riffing on AJ's much nuttier post just before it. This sort of dialogue is difficult to summarize or paraphrase.
Tue, 10/18/2011 - 01:30
LOL, tj..... Too late my
by aj builder, Upstate NY Zone 6a
LOL, tj..... Too late my man.... My bear posts (besides yours!) were a bit tongue in cheek too don't yaa think!!? Lol...
Now I have to finish off my bear steak with it's beechnut demiglaise....
Wed, 10/19/2011 - 08:34
Not-So-Foamy
by John Brooks
I agree with Doug, Albert and Brett Moyer(NOT Boyer)
I think it is possible to build High Performance with Less Foam
Wed, 10/19/2011 - 11:33
two central european
by mike eliason
two central european variations on the 'perfect wall' that use no foam:
solid timber (brettstapel, cross laminated timber)
TJIs or wood truss fixed to solid timber element, filled w/ cellulose
fiberboard sheathing
rainscreen
or
solid timber (brettstapel, cross laminated timber)
mineral wool fixed to timber element
rainscreen
Wed, 10/19/2011 - 11:58
Europeans
by John Brooks
Mike,
thanks for bringing up the Euros.... they have a good track record of building High Performance Structures ... with AND without OUTSIDE insulation... correct me if I am wrong ...but I believe the trend in Europe is to AVOID Foam
Wed, 10/19/2011 - 12:00
Response to Mike Eliason
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor
Mike,
Similar walls are built in North America, but (usually) without the cross-laminated timber. It's more common here to use stick framing.
So, the comparable North American walls would be:
Wall #1:
Plywood-sheathed stick-framed wall
Larsen trusses filled with cellulose
Fiberboard sheathing or diagonal board sheathing
Rainscreen (vertical furring strips)
Wall #2:
Plywood-sheathed stick-framed wall
Mineral wool panels attached to the plywood
Rainscreen (vertical furring strips)
Wed, 10/19/2011 - 12:15
Another Not-So-Foamy Example
by John Brooks
Thorsten Chlupp calls it "Out-Insulation"
this a darn good thread started by Lucas Durand
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/community/forum/general-questions/19...
Lucas is working on his own Not-So-Foamy House right now
He has developed his own system which I hope he will publish soon
sort of a hybrid between Chlupp and Riversong
I think Lucas can visualize a good Air Barrier .... much like Thorsten Chlupp and Robert Riversong and Marc Rosenbaum
Wed, 10/19/2011 - 13:36
John,
Yes and no. For the
by mike eliason
John,
Yes and no. For the most part when I worked there, the tendency was to avoid it - but some structures are easier or cheaper to wrap in foam - like existing masonry/concrete retrofits. There is also a much better track record w/ EIFS-like systems (or as the Germans call is Waermedaemmverbundsystem or WDVS).
Usage of mineal wool or foamglas in lieu of petroleum-based foams is pretty common.
Martin,
Yes, those are similar. In the EU systems - the massivholz is shear/air barrier/structure and can be routed out to be MEP chase as well. Or alternatively, add a service wall to the interior. And Thorsten's system is very similar to wall systems I've seen in Europe (including the cellulose-based 'outsulation').
Wed, 10/19/2011 - 18:57
Not in the South
by Robert Sanders Jr
However, here is Georgia it is not common to put rigid foam on the outside of the foundation due to the need to check for termites. I agree with exterior wall sheathing, but for my area I believe damp sprayed cellulose is cheaper, more environmentally friendly, and still meets the required R-value for our climate zone.
Thu, 10/20/2011 - 14:57
I Joists for walls
by Mark Zollinger
Why are I joists not being used in walls? With very little thermal bridging and ease of construction, I joists could provide a very efficient wall assembly
Thu, 10/20/2011 - 15:07
Response to Mark
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor
Mark,
Builders of superinsulated houses have been using I-joists as studs for years. That's how Katrin Klingenberg built her house in 2003-2004. In the May 2004 issue of Energy Design Update, I reported details of the wall construction of her house:
"Klingenberg framed the thick walls of her house with vertical 12-inch TJIs (I-joists from Trus Joist). Trus Joist has developed details allowing their TJI floor joists to be used as studs; however, since US builders show little interest in superinsulation, the publication is available only in German. (The document, which has the unlikely title of “Balloon und Platform Framing Details,” is posted on the Web.) According to Klingenberg, when TJIs are used as studs, they require structural sheathing on both sides. For interior sheathing, Klingenberg specified OSB, which functions as a vapor retarder. On the exterior, Klingenberg wanted a more vapor-permeable sheathing; she settled on 1⁄2-inch Stedi-R structural fiberboard (R-1.28) from Georgia Pacific."
Sun, 10/23/2011 - 22:16
“Thinking green, it is better
by Mike Lancaster
“Thinking green, it is better also to eat less meat"
I apologize for getting off topic, but this statement is hopelessly false.
Mon, 10/31/2011 - 13:41
Brett Moyer not Boyer
by John Brooks
Scott, I tried to point out your typo in an earlier comment...
guess you missed it
Mon, 10/31/2011 - 13:57
Thanks, John
by Scott Gibson
With apologies to Brett, the typo is fixed.
Thu, 12/01/2011 - 14:26
Super-insulated high mass
by Roger Kjonaas
I know I am late on this blog and new to the site, but when Peter Yost, GBA's technical director, said, ”A concrete (or concrete block) wall with all of the insulation to the exterior, pulling the structure pretty much into the conditioned space, is elegant." I had to comment.
As a custom design builder, I have been building super-insulated homes for thirty years and in 1991 I built my personal home out of concrete block with a Larsen Truss attached and insulated with 7" of sprayed urethane. The foundation has 4" of extruded polystyrene and basement floor has 2" of extruded polystyrene protected with a tu-tuff barrier. The attic has a perfect air/vapor barrier with R-70 blown fiberglass.
Without question my 4000 sq. ft. home does not perform as well as many of my stick built super-insulated homes of similar size. Of course there are hundreds of variables, including location and lifestyle.
I find this site very interesting and could have commented on so many blogs, after thirty years of performing homes, I have seen alot.
Thu, 12/01/2011 - 14:34
Reply to Roger Kjonaas
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor
Roger,
Your comment is interesting. To what do you attribute the lower performance of your home?
In most U.S. climates, a high-mass superinsulated home has no advantages compared to a low-mass superinsulated home. What matters is the quality of the envelope -- airtightness, R-value, and window specs -- not the amount of mass inside the envelope.
So I tend to be skeptical whenever thermal mass proponents brag about the advantages of interior concrete. In that regard, I think we agree. But I can't really think of a reason why your high-mass home should perform worse than a low-mass home. Please let us know if you have a theory to explain your observation.
Thu, 12/01/2011 - 14:59
Reply to Martin
by Roger Kjonaas
I really haven't been able to figure it out, I have an infrared scanner and have inspected the home, but nothing sticks out.
The reason I used the high mass wall system is because the walls have hydronic heating tubes throughout, it was going to provide the thermal storage, as I was going to build a hybrid heating system with solar and a water stream generator, I live up against the Missouri River, north of Bismarck, North Dakota.
Back in about 1982 I built a super-insulated passive solar home with a wood foundation and wood basement floor, all protected with high ml. rubber membranes. This was a low mass house and the owners called me in January wondering what to do about their house over heating. Mass is important to reduce temperature swings, but exactly how much is always the question.
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