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PassivHaus is a standard of construction that yields extremely tight envelopes and low energy use.

The PassivHaus Institute is in Germany, but we have a branch here in North America as well, Passive House Institute US

3 Answers

We are in the process of designing a passive house and are working with PH certified architect/consultant. But for now, builder's knowledge would be needed: a back of the envelope calculation for the cost /sf of this kind of wall assembly: fiber cement board w/ rain screen, fiber board, dense packed cellulose, OSB, dense packed cellulose, drywall. The wood framing will most likely be w/Larson trusses. The R-value we are trying to achieve is around 40. The house is a duplex with gross sf area of ~4500. Would be good to know the material & labor separately. Why do I need it?

Asked By Lucyna de Barbaro | May 16 13
4 Answers

There was an article on this site about the failure of a Belgian PassivHaus that rendered it uninhabitable due to poor indoor air quality. The previous page address now says 'access denied' or has been removed over the past couple of days - can anyone point me in the direction of further information?

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/belgian-passivhau...

Asked By richard asbury | May 14 13
10 Answers

I am looking for the factor that allows me to convert delivered energy (electricity in kWh) to the primary energy.(kWh) value. Location is British Columbia where most of the electricity generated is hydropower if this would have an impact on the ratio of primary energy to delivered energy. Many thanks.

Asked By Manfred Winter | Apr 30 13
5 Answers

I will start building a Passive House within a few months. Location is far North West Washington State close to Vancouver, BC but on US side. This means there are many heating days and virtually zero cooling days.

Asked By Stephen Carlton | Apr 18 13
14 Answers

We’re building a small passivhaus in central Vermont. (We’re shooting for PHIUS+ certification.) We’re eschewing the old paradigm of penetrating the outside envelope with HVAC, wiring, plumbing, sockets, switches, etc. (Anything on inside of the the outside wall be just that, on the wall -- i.e., surface-mounted. We don’t like the idea of a service cavity, for several green, labor, material, & space reasons. We will evolutionarily adapt our aesthetic sensibilities.) It will be almost identical to our current house, except we will be using cellulose now where we used foam before.

Asked By Greg Whitchurch | Apr 12 13
9 Answers

I will be using Intus Eforte windows in my passive house build. I have the option to purchase flanged windows that are installed on the outer of my double walls, or an undersill application that mounts almost between my double wall assembly. What are the pros and cons to these two options? Thanks.

Asked By Matthew Michaud | Jan 1 13
4 Answers

I am building a Passive House outside of Seattle in climate zone 4C. The building site has a high water table with water only 24 inches below grade in the winter after a good rain. I'd like to have at least R-50 for my floor above a vented crawlspace. The sub-floor will be the air barrier. The HRV, all duct work and the water heater will be above the floor in the conditioned space. I would like to use dense packed cellulose between the 18 inch deep TJI. I have concerns regarding the high water table.

Asked By Gerald Blycker | Mar 20 13
8 Answers

I am building my dream house outside of Seattle in climate zone 4C with 4,615 heating degree days. It will be a net zero energy home built to Passive House standards. A 10 kW solar array will generate all of the energy the house uses with enough left over to power an electric car for 3,000 mile/yr. With solar panels now selling for $1/watt I can buy the panels, inverter, wire and mounts for under $20,000. Even in Seattle's rainy climate, this system will pay for itself in six years if I install it myself and in 11 years if I hire professionals. But I digress....

Asked By Gerald Blycker | Mar 15 13
3 Answers

Matthew,
I would like to plaster then texture over old uneven concrete. I saw a product called plaster-weld. Can I use the plaster weld over the poured concrete wall and then just layer on coats of joint compound to get a textured even finish, then seal with a primer and finally paint it? When they formed up the basement walls years and years ago, they weren't concerned with even finish. I can send you a photo if you need one. We get very little moisture in basement. Thank you in advance.

Christophe@centurytel.net

Asked By Chris Sutherland | Feb 21 13
14 Answers

What kind of plaster can I apply directly to a poured concrete wall? Insulated on the outside, new construction. Do I need something that breathes and gives with the wall as it dries out? Should I wait for a period of time after initial construction for walls to dry out?

Thanks---- Greg

Asked By Greg Gunderson | Feb 6 11
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