Community: PassivHaus

PassivHaus is a standard of construction that yields extremely tight envelopes and low energy use.

The PassivHaus Institute is in Germany, but we have a branch here in North America as well, Passive House Institute US

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3 Answers

Santa, Please Bring me a Balanced ERV...

We’re getting into commissioning residential heat recovery ventilation systems (balance* and optimize**) and so recently invested in a Dutch-made balometer that is really accurate*** for measuring low air flows. What was once done crudely with a Pitot tube and unglamorously with a garbage bag "should" now be able to be done quickly, simply and repeatably with more accuracy – perhaps too much - which may be part of the problem.

Generally, the procedure goes like this:

1- balance the adjustable dampers (if present) with the system at max speed

Asked By Greg Labbe | Dec 29 14
2 Answers

Additional insulation below laminated/floating floor over rigid-foam-insulated concrete slab?

I have a 4" concrete slab insulated with 4" of rigid foam (on the underside, of course). I was planning to install laminated floating floor on top of everything. As I have to install 2x2"s over the concrete in order to hold the laminated floor, a friend suggested to fill the space between the 2x2"s with insulation or, at least, dirt.

The questions are:

Asked By Jose Castro | Dec 27 14
8 Answers

How to handle SE/SW orientation? And any experiences with Richlin windows?

I'm planning a not-quite almost-passive retrofit to a 1,400 sq. ft. 1-1/2 story Cape Cod in Minneapolis (shooting for R-40 walls & R-50-80 roof). I'm looking for a US window manufacturer who can come close to European quality without the high cost, lead time and shipping impact. Oh yeah, and the windows must be standard crank-out casement as I have no interest in tilt / turn (I've used them plenty in Europe).

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Sep 29 14
0 Answers

The costs of PH consultants, rights to submit building plans

In Upstate NY plans over 1500 sqft need to be submitted by licensed architects or the proper engineer

Costs run $250 at the low end to approve already drawn plans to $5,000 and up in my work do far.

I would like to see costs discussed here and in a blog Martin along with the fact that a PH consultant is basically doing what two others are the only ones licensed to submit plans.

Archs and engineers pay dearly in expense and time for several years of education and then often some years as an underling in the appropriate office.

Asked By aj builder, Upstate NY Zone 6a | Dec 14 14
10 Answers

I'm overthinking windows again... SHGC question

So I think we're close to choosing a local window producer to furnish our windows. Richlin 500 casements offer U values as low as 0.13, very good air seal numbers, are built down the road from us with a short lead time and an economy price. The only downfall that I'm aware of is that they insist on LoE272 glazing for their triple panes. This gives them a dismal 0.22 SHGC. Since I have 36SF of summer shaded, winter exposed, south facing window, I was thinking of going with a different window on the south side.

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Dec 4 14
3 Answers

Blower door testing by floor or room?


Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 21 14
1 Answer

Can a skylight ever be energy positive?


I'm curious as to whether skylights are always net losers, or if one could be favorable given the right conditions. In general they seem to be avoided due to the heat gain potential and nighttime loses.

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 18 14
3 Answers

Air sealing windows

I am building a Passive House with double stud walls and all OSB seams sealed with Prosoco Joint and Seam filler. I have plywood window bucks and triple pane windows with nailing flanges installed on the exterior of the rough opening. I need to air seal the inside of the window frame to the plywood window bucks. I would like to fill the space between the window frame and the plywood with foam and then air seal.

Asked By Gerald Blycker | Nov 6 14
0 Answers

how do I maximize the use of my ERV in my Passivhaus(Vancouver canada)

we are in a new home that meets the International Passivhaus Standard
we have 2Ultimateair Ervs, one for upper floor where my daughter lives (1700sqft)
one for main floor(1800sqft), we live in a moderate moist climate Vancouver BC.
what is the best way to maximize the benefits, save energy and have a comfortable home?
eg should it run constantly in winter? what happens when bathroom window is left open?

Asked By Teresa Hotell | Nov 3 14
7 Answers

Closed-cell spray foam versus dense-packed cellulose - Noise control in a PassivHaus

This is a comment rather than a question.

In our pre-certified PassivHaus in northern NJ, we have 10-inches of densepack cellulose and 2-inches EPS in the walls, and 10-inches of closed-cell spray foam in the roof.

We've noticed that the noise attenuation through the walls is much greater than through the roof.

Most of the noise getting into the attic comes through the roof, which is asphalt shingle over plywood decking on 2x12 rafters, with the space between the rafters filled with 10-inches of the closed-cell spray foam.

Asked By Len Moskowitz | Oct 15 14
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