Community: Webinar Follow-up Q&A

Much of the value of this site is the pooled experience of members and their willingness to share it. This page offers a Community area formatted for Questions & Answers dedicated to Webinar Follow-up Q&A. Other topics appear to the right.

Anyone may ask a question and anyone may answer. Sometimes one of our 15 Advisors may chime in; in other cases, you'll get the wisdom of some of our members who have some experience in this area. We encourage everyone to give us the benefit of both their questions and answers. The usual rules of courtesy apply.

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Presenters Peter Yost and Mike Guertin were inundated with questions during their 12/18/2009 webinar Got Mold? - Energy Efficiency and Moisture Management.

This forum is a space for questions that Peter and Mike were unable to get to during the 60-minute presentation.

3 Answers

I recently installed dense-pack cellulose in a 1929 home. After the install, the amount of moisture condensing on the windows increased significantly. Why would this happen. The relative humidity in the home should be the exact same before and after. The windows are original with fully closed storms.

Asked By Anonymous | Dec 21 09
6 Answers

I live in a newly renovated and insulated house in Montreal, Quebec, Canada, where the minimum temperature range between - 20 to - 25 F. My clothes dryer exhaust duct is about 1 feet long and connect the clothes dryer directly outside. When not in use, condensation forms on the duct, drips on the hard wood floor, and eventually, ice forms on the duct. All of this is quite logical, but I have never heard of such a problem before. The house temperature is about 70 F. There is not a lot of air circulation between the exterior wall and the dryer so I've installed a small fan in front of it.

Asked By Marie-Helene Burman | Dec 21 09
6 Answers

As noted in the webinar, stopping moisture at the outside face of an assembly is always best, but for older (1950's & 60's era) concrete block walls and concrete slab floors below grade, what type of sealer products or other techniques work best to try to prevent moisture penetration, and subsequent musty smells? Thank you.

Asked By Rick Neumann | Dec 21 09
1 Answer

what’s the origin of the moisture in the concrete floor and mold behind the trim photo? Was it when the floor was cleaned? Or a plumbing break? Or when the concrete was drying during install?

Asked By Anonymous | Dec 21 09
6 Answers

I was wondering if it was possible to insulate so much that the dew point actually occurs in the insulation? Also if this was to occur would it eliminate condensation or would it still occur within the insulation? I can see this as maybe being a possibility in a ceiling but would it be possible in a wall?

Asked By Mick Paterson | Dec 23 09
1 Answer

When remodeling a story and half, mold was found in a section that was unheated but will now be in the heating envelope. Will this staining need to be bleached or just left as is?

Thank You,
Dan

Asked By Dan | Dec 21 09
3 Answers

In middle Tennessee, I always see deck bands bolted over cladding directly to the house band. There is never any flashing and this crushes the drainage plane behind the cladding. The result is both deck and band joist rotting. I'm amazed at the lack of designing to dry.

Asked By Anonymous | Dec 21 09
3 Answers

What climate zone was that capillary action example in?

Asked By Brian Becker | Dec 21 09
2 Answers

Does building code require that we put a sill sealer or capilary break when framing walls on concrete (in a basement for example)?

Asked By Anonymous | Dec 21 09
3 Answers

What are we to understand about differences in the united states. I build in Pennsylvania (outside of Philadelphia). We are on the border of climate zones and it makes it difficult to know where to properly place vapor barriers in different conditions and some guidance would be appreciated.

Asked By Anonymous | Dec 21 09