Community: Plans Review

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!


Post images of your construction details, get feedback from the GBAGreenBuildingAdvisor.com community and advisory team.

3 Answers

Can R-10 XPS foam against concrete and R-15 mineral wool batts between framing be combined in a basement?

I'm in the process of finalizing the plans for my basement. Our current plan is to do R-10 XPS attached to the concrete blocks walls, followed by R-15 mineral wool batts between the studs. I live in central NJ, and the foundation wall is more than 60% above grade.

I'm now concerned about condensation between the mineral wool and foam. Allowing (extremely generously) R-5 for the concrete block, the foam + block is R-15 total.

Asked By David Pfeffer | Feb 26 15
3 Answers

Are leaks in a structure...

Checking for leaks? is the Green's leakage decreased in homes, now that it has gone green? Or, is it basically the same / near or = to studies (in normal construction techniques)?

Asked By arf shr | Feb 8 15
10 Answers

Plans Review with a few questions

We are getting closer to building our new home. The preliminary drawings have been completed (links to plans at the bottom). We aren’t exactly building a green house, but over the last year I’ve read an enormous amount of good information from this website and a few others to help guide me in building a more durable and energy efficient house than what is typically done around here (vented crawlspaces and ducts in a vented attic are pretty standard here).

Asked By Michael Geoghegan | Feb 4 15
2 Answers

Using rigid foam on a concrete block house - Northern Ohio

I currently have a 1947 one story - exterior concrete block house(2000sf) with 2X2 interior framing filled with batt insulation. That is covered by a mix of wood paneling/drywall. The front of the house already had a 4 inch styrofoam with a textured stucco put on before we got the house. The block exterior is going to need to be painted this year if I don't do something. I do not think it was every sealed/primed/painted correctly as paint is popping off. If I do paint it correctly would I now create a moisture issue?

Asked By Tim M | Feb 1 15
1 Answer

Can I install mini split units on the same wall?

I'm looking to install a 19 SEER Mitsubishi 24000 BTU mini split system on my garage. I'm limited in where I can put the outdoor unit, so my desired location happens to be directly behind where I want to put the indoor unit. The wall that will separate the units is 2-layer brick, so I expect that the lineset length will only be a max of 3-4 feet

Asked By Elliot Boyce | Jan 11 15
10 Answers

Paperless Home Design-Build

I don't know how many are aware that over the past decade or two the aircraft/auto and some other industries have gone to paperless (no blueprint) designs. The design is built and inspected to 3D datasets, or DMUs(Digital Mock-up Units), some of which, but not all, interface to CAM(Computer Aided Manufacturing), mainly auto-fastening, CNC machining, rapid prototype type operations.

Asked By Terry Lee | Nov 2 14
7 Answers

Does this plan for a vented over-roof make sense?

Hi all, first time asking a question but I’ve found this Q&A very helpful in the past. Thanks in advance for your help.

I’m planning to add a vented over-roof to my zone 6 northern NY house. It has three roof sections: two cathedral and one with an attic. I’ll be dense packing the cathedral ceilings with cellulose and spray foaming the attic before over-roofing, making all three roofs hot and roughly R-25+ before the over-roof. Here’s the thinking on the vented over-roof layers, from bottom up:

1) Decking
2) Air barrier membrane

Asked By Jan Wellford | Oct 3 14
18 Answers

Detail and Insulation Review

We are looking to do REMOTE wall construction on our new house located in S.E. Michigan. Currently drawn as 2" exterior rigid foam, but 3" will probably be the the correct amount to use. I plan to use Bituthene as the WRB, not sure if anyone can recommend any alternatives? I really like Bituthene's low perms and low cost, but I assume that asphalt products aren't all that green....

Asked By Eric Burhop | Jul 31 13
18 Answers

Detail and Insulation Review

We are looking to do REMOTE wall construction on our new house located in S.E. Michigan. Currently drawn as 2" exterior rigid foam, but 3" will probably be the the correct amount to use. I plan to use Bituthene as the WRB, not sure if anyone can recommend any alternatives? I really like Bituthene's low perms and low cost, but I assume that asphalt products aren't all that green....

Asked By Eric Burhop | Jul 31 13
4 Answers

Zone 5 - Cathedral Ceiling

Hello all. Long time lurker building a new house by Candlewood Lake in CT. We are currently finishing up framing and I am getting all kinds of debate on the cathedral ceiling in my master bedroom. Above it is proposed 2 x 12 rafters and we were going to go with a vented dense packed cellulose insulation. Now I am considering adding a 1.5" layer of PolyIso on the inside.

Is there any potential to not vent? All the articles I see here strongly suggest venting when dense packed cellulose is used in a cathedral. What say you?

Is the 1.5" of Polyiso worth it?

Asked By Paul Szymanski | Sep 30 14
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!