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13 Answers

We're about to begin framing on a new house in zone 6A (Minneapolis). From months of reading and following posts here, I've devised what I think is a wall/insulation strategy that will work. Does this look right, or are there any tweaks that could make it:
a) perform better (within reason; we're going after the "pretty good" model, not a Passivhaus)
b) more cost-effective
c) easier to build

The concept (inside to out):
- Drywall
- 2x6 stud wall
- Membrain or similar (6-mil poly if the inspector insists...sigh)
- 5.5" blown fiberglass cavity insulation (BIBS) = R-23

Asked By Joshua Wyatt | Jul 28 14
3 Answers

My house has no ventilation aside from the bath and kitchen exhausts. This needs to change. ASHRAE 62.2 wants me to have 66cfm, and BSC-01 42cfm. No way I'm getting that through the cracks of the windows. But I don't want a whole 'nother duct system. I already have ducts! Also, I don't like the idea of exhaust-only. Where's that air gonna come from? My crawlspace is icky!

Asked By Jacob Weel | Jun 21 14
3 Answers

Looking for some input. It feels like I've done too much research and have started to confuse myself with all the options out there (icf/persist/remote/double stud/ radiant/ gshp, mini splits/ oil fired boiler, windows, siding, choices), So I'll at the beginning looking for some insight from the pro's.

The house will be in upstate NY CZ6A 99% temp of -6f, 43* lat. building on a hill overlooking a lake (lake is due east of building site) prevailing wind is from the west. I plan on doing as much of the work as possible (to keep the price in reason budget is pretty tight).

Asked By Trevor Chadwick | Apr 28 14
20 Answers

The attached file shows a wall design concept for a new house build near Minneapolis, Mn. I'm trying to design a wall that is both easy to build and has good performance.

Asked By Karl Overn | Apr 20 14
4 Answers

We are planning a major renovation of our 1970s ranch and would like in-floor radiant heat. The house is on an uninsulated slab in climate zone 5A. Our current plan is to insulate with 1.5" XPS over the slab, lay Schluter Bekotec over the insulation, place the the PEX in the Bekotec, screed then tile thoughout the house.

Asked By Jessica Marchesi | Apr 6 14
1 Answer

For anyone who naturally performs THERM calculations in their head, the answer would be intuitively obvious, but to know for sure I'd have to stop and learn THERM (which wouldn't be a bad idea).

Before I build this, would it be better to place to layers of vertical 2" EPS on the outside, maybe 32" and 16" deep, to reduce what looks like an excessive thermal bridge right at the top of the foundation?
Cross section:

Asked By Chuck Jensen | Apr 16 14
2 Answers

This will be located in SW Colorado climate zone 6B (ICC zone 5B). Long axis due east-west with a 45 deg bend on the west 1/3. Attached is a pdf of a typical cross section of the proposed design. I will have some specific questions forethcoming but this is partly a test to see how the pdf looks posted.

Asked By Chuck Jensen | Apr 12 14
9 Answers

I am using a commercial insulated metal panel system to insulate on the exterior of the sheathing. Panels are arranged horizontally (40" high and up to 40' long but I'll likely cut to 10' as they would be too heavy) and secure through plywood to 2x6 studs using metal self-tapping screws.

Appreciate the community's help in determining best location for air and vapour barriers / retarders in this assembly.


Asked By Jerry Chwang | Apr 2 14
1 Answer

I help to build houses with a Habitat for Humanity affiliate south of Houston, TX (Zone 2A) and I would like your thoughts on how we weatherproof the homes.
We use standard 2x4 construction, with OSB sheathing. (Cavities and attic floor are filled with blown in rock wool)
Flanged vinyl single hung windows are installed as per Texas Windstorm Regulations. We do not put any window pan or any other drainage plane/ water resistant barrier in before installing window.
We do use Dow Weathermate 4" Flashing Tape over all four flanges (working upward).

Asked By Steve Young | Feb 16 14
3 Answers

We are building in SE Michigan (Zone 5) and after months of research on this site we are looking to finalize our section.

We plan on doing a PERSIST/REMOTE wall section and are struggling coming up with a large eave that we can attach outside the envelop. I have included sections for metal and shingle roofs. The metal furring seems less costly than covering the roof in another layer of sheathing....

We are mainly looking for advice on the eaves, but any other advice on the section would be helpful.


Asked By Eric Burhop | Jan 6 14
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