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2 Answers

Dense packing an eyebrow roof

I have a small eyebrow roof below a shed dormer on the back of my cape style house. The dormer runs for about 25 feet across the back of the house. The roof is attached to the wall studs instead of using the proper construction which calls for the wall to be sheathed first and then the eyebrow rafters attached to a ledger board across the sheathing. I have batt insulation in the wall that is exposed to the roof and to the soffit vents that are cut into the eave below the eyebrow.

Asked By Michael Lee | Nov 21 14
3 Answers

Insulating a cathedral ceiling

I am trying to find an effective way to insulate a cathedral ceiling (with collar ties) in zone 5 south of Chicago. I have read many of the postings and have gathered much information, but am still hesitant due to the moisture drying to one side issue.

What I have is 2x6 rafters on a 4/12. I am doing a complete remodel and plan on removing the existing drywall and insulation. I want to verify the existence (or not) of ventilation chutes from eave to ridge.

Asked By jon cypert | Nov 25 11
2 Answers

Insulating a crawl space

Situation: Existing uninsulated very shallow crawl space with a concrete floor that doesn't have insulation or vapor barrier under the slab located in climate zone 6 just a few miles south of the "border" for climate zone 7.

My plan is to insulate the space with 4" on the walls and 2" on the slab of type 1 EPS and then cover that with about as much blown cellulose as I can fit in the space (about 2' high). It is empty space - no mechanicals of any sort in there.

Asked By Greg Smith | Oct 4 13
5 Answers

We ran into a few deep uninsulated roof channels

Too little to have a cellulose sub. Are you better off packing them full with pieces of fiberglass batts, or risking air movement by sliding a loose batt down? What is the R factor of hand-packed fiberglass? Thanks.

Asked By Robert Mason | Nov 20 14
19 Answers

Is 1" enough?

We are constructing a home in far western SD (Climate Zone 6b)....There is a lot of bedrock here so we have opted to build a post frame (pole barn) style structure. From the outside in, our wall 'sandwich' will be
1-pole barn style tin wall covering
2-Tyvek
3- 1" Tongue and Groove XPS foam
4-Half inch OSB attached to the girts
5- 7" of cellulose filling the curtain walls
6- OSB on the shop walls and Drywall in the house.

Asked By daryl stisser | Nov 16 14
6 Answers

I air-sealed my attic too well!

Not really, of course. But here's my story:

I moved into a 1350sf ranch home (3/4 basement and 1/4 crawl) in Columbus, OH last year and have been working to air-seal and insulate it. I ran a blower door test before I began just to be nerdy and track my progress. Initial leakage was 3075cfm @ 50 Pa, about 9.7 ach50. I started work in the attic, sealing up everything I could find before blowing in cellulose over my skimpy loose fiberglass.

Asked By Ben Wilson | Nov 20 14
6 Answers

Suggestions for insulating a large garage workshop

Hi everyone. I just purchased a property in western Massachusetts zone five a. I am planning to renovate the existing 24 x 60 barn for use as a year-round workshop. The building is slab on grade with 2 x 6 framed walls 24 inches on center, sided with rough pine board and batten nailed to the studs and bracing. Currently, there is a bit of air exchange between the interior and exterior due to some of the battens pulling away from the nailers.

Asked By Benjamin Jones | Jul 18 14
1 Answer

Rigid foam over WRB

I am finishing up a full kitchen remodel that pretty much required me to rebuild 25' of exterior wall in my 1600 s.f. 1950s ranch located in Portland, Oregon (zone 4 marine). It is a 2x4 wall with R-15 fiberglass, existing 1x8 shiplap board sheathing (less some areas with wood damage, yes we do have termites in the NW), window and door rough openings flashed to a Tyvek primary WRB and air barrier. I would like to add 1-1/2" of rigid foam with taped seams and a 1/2" rainscreen before replacing my cladding.

Asked By David Fraser | Nov 19 14
11 Answers

Air sealing and insulation question

I am buying a 1900 bungalow in the white mountains of NH, 10 foot ceilings 4 inch walls. The only insulation now is the attic is capped. The heating is hot air, with unsealed or insulated duct work. The house is one story. We are closing in October, so I'll have no access until then. Where should I start?

Asked By Ken Chester | Aug 12 14
11 Answers

Air sealing and insulation question

I am buying a 1900 bungalow in the white mountains of NH, 10 foot ceilings 4 inch walls. The only insulation now is the attic is capped. The heating is hot air, with unsealed or insulated duct work. The house is one story. We are closing in October, so I'll have no access until then. Where should I start?

Asked By Ken Chester | Aug 12 14
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