Community: Energy efficiency and durability

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5 Answers

Bathroom exhaust fan damper

I was just installing a Panasonic whisper green select exhaust fan. I've heard that Panasonic makes quality fans and I liked the options that the fan has, but I was unimpressed with the damper. Its flimsy plastic and it doesn't seal the fan at all. I can clearly see through the fan and down to the floor through two big gaps on each side of the damper. I remember the last fan I installed was a cheaper brand but it had a nice metal damper that seemed to seal quite well. Is there anything that I can do to seal the fan better? Would installing a duct damper be wise. Thanks for any help.

Asked By Kevin Schramm | Jan 25 15

0 Answers

Vaulted ceiling insulation

I'm fixing up my garage, looking for some insulation guidance. The framing was done by somebody's grandfather in the 40's and it's real crazy, but then, it's stood there in southern CA earthquakes for about 70 years so I'm not too worried about it. Anyway, I'd like to attach T & G or drywall directly to the roof rafters, to keep the vaulted look but can't figure out how best to insulate it since there'd be no attic.

idea #1: put Dow Tuff-R rigid insulation in between the rafters, fill in gaps with Great Stuff foam.

Asked By Robert Page | Jan 25 15

0 Answers

SHGC high-solar-gain windows current list

Could we list a few US window companies where SHGC windows are available?

Also 2115, what window company are all of you using, in my area, (northern US)

My climate 6A

My area Andersen, Pella are the higher end choice, mainly because that's what's our lumber yard promotes. Some Marvin... The tract builders have lesser known names, all vinyl. I will list them after I get some names.

I only know of one other builder that cares about windows with high solar gain.

Asked By aj builder, Upstate NY Zone 6a | Jan 25 15

4 Answers

Closed crawlspace ventilation choices

I'm in the process of closing my 900 sqft crawlspace and need to find a way to ventilate the space. One thought I had was to use the old oil furnace chimney/flue as a way to send the air up and out with the help of a small(20cfm) bath fan. The flue is centrally located and close to an existing outlet. Or is it better to seal the flue (or remove it all together) and duct the air through the foundation wall.
Particulars:
zone 4 asheville nc
house built in 1969
neighbor had his crawl space tested for radon and was negative.
13mil barrier sealed to block wall

Asked By terrell whitworth | Jan 23 15

13 Answers

Using too much electricity?

I just completed a 1043 sq ft story and a half cottage with a 351 sq ft garage apartment over a detached single car garage. I have two mitsubishi hyper heat splits in the cottage and one in the garage apartment. The cottage has a 27KW ecosmart tankless and the garage apartment has an 18KW. The garage apartment is never used and my usage is between 60 and 74 KWH per day. I'm gearing up to call the utility and the electrician to check things out. Is this atypical for an all electric home this size?

Asked By Andre Jones | Jan 19 15

4 Answers

Air sealing for unvented cathedral ceiling

I am planning a remodel which will add a cathedral ceiling,and there is already an existing cathedral ceiling in another part of my home. Since much of the roof will already be removed this seems like a good time to correctly insulate and air seal.On this site (thank you Martin et.al.) the outer layer of rigid insulation is taped at the seams. On the BuildingScience site (thank you Joe et.al.) the unvented compact roof shows self-sealing membrane over the structural roof deck for an air barrier. Somewhere else I read the suggestion to use tape on the seams of the structural sheathing.

Asked By Eric West | Aug 28 13

9 Answers

Humidity question

I live in southern Ontario (think Buffalo) and moved here last year. The house had a 80% efficient furnace that used indoor air for combustion, the house had 17.68 ACH50, with the majority of the air leakage through the crawlspace (under 1/3 of house) and non existent attic hatch (above 1/3 of the house, above the crawlspace house extension ironically). The indoor humidity last winter was 25-30%, i gave up in trying to raise it.

Asked By Alan B | Jan 19 15

2 Answers

Energy savings contributed by windows & appliances

I am deciding to go for a building envelop. Can anyone guide me what could be the possible savings and its contribution to energy efficiency for both building and other appliances?

Asked By Rahul Sharma | Jan 23 15

3 Answers

Ever since I got new windows, doors and a vent put in, it is freezing, there is an awful draft

Ever since I got new windows, doors, and a vent put in, it is freezing, there is an awful draft, and even when the fire is lit it is cold. I cannot keep the heat in the house even with the fire and radiators going. There is no heat staying in. I can feel a constant draft blowing all the time.

Asked By jenny sinnott | Jan 23 15

26 Answers

Closed crawlspace with dehumidifier and foundation insulation

I am still in the planning stages of building my new house. I would like a closed crawlspace (I'm in a mixed humid climate) with a dehumidifier and foundation wall insulation. See page 35 (which is actually page 41 on the pdf page counter) http://www.advancedenergy.org/portal/crawl_spaces/pdfs/Closed%20Crawl%20... for a sample design of what I'm going with. I have two main questions about this design choice:

Asked By Michael Geoghegan | Oct 27 14

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