Community: Energy efficiency and durability

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!

2 Answers

Hello to all,

Well here is my conundrum. I live in a house that was built in 1983, and it was built using the minimum materials in every aspect. The house is a modern/contemporary with vaulted ceiling up to 28' high. Saying that the roof was framed using 2x8 rafters, and yup r-19 insulation faced bats. The walls are 2x4 with what seems to be at best 4 mil vapor barrier, r-11 unfaced bats, and 1/2" Celotex w/5/8" t-111 exterior siding.

I need to bring the r-value up to as (close) to minimum code. Our local code call for r-38 ceiling, r-19 walls.

Asked By jason hood | Feb 8 12
0 Answers

We've had to move some plumbing lines in a freshly spray foamed (open cell foam) insulated wall. This requred us to remove some of the insulation. What's the best way to refill the insulation here without calling out the original applicator and paying his $500 minimum trip charge?

Asked By Dave Sykes | Feb 8 12
6 Answers

I found a great deal on recycled polyiso boards that were once a roof on a commercial building with EPDM rubber over it. Each board is 4 foot by 4 foot and 4 inches thick.

I am going to use them in a 1830 post-and-beam house. The boards are going to be going in the attic. There is currently no insulation or vapor barrier in there. The house is in upstate NY and sees some seriously cold winters (at least in the past).

Asked By Larry Broderick | Feb 7 12
3 Answers

Hello,

I'm finishing my basement and discovered the HRV inlet duct insulation is damp at the bottom portion of the 90 deg inlet (pic attached).

Is there a better way to insulate this duct? During cold snaps here in the Pac Northwest, the rigid duct condensates, so last year, I wrapped it with insulation.

thank you

Asked By Frank O | Feb 7 12
1 Answer

I am planning on building a home in zone 3A (Dallas) by first erecting a metal building and then framing the inside. Plan is to use R-panel for outside and then 2x4 walls. What is the best way to insulate this including what type and location of vapor barrier

Asked By Greg Trojacek | Feb 6 12
3 Answers

Two-story home is located in Atlanta, Ga, and built in 1984. The house faces west. The bonus room over the garage has a separated roof from the main section of the house which make up most of the angle portion of the ceiling in the room. The roof has ridge venting.

The issue is continually battling temperature variations as I have tightened up the house with air-sealing.

Asked By Scott Razzino | Feb 5 12
4 Answers

I am designing a new house in Rhode Island. We are using 2 x 6 studs with 4 in. closed cell spray foam insulation in the walls, with 5/8 in Zip sheathing (taped) over the studs, 1 1/2 in EPS styrofoam over the sheathing and an outer layer of 5/8 in. Zip sheathing (taped) and cedar shingles as the exterior. Second layer of Zip sheathing is fastened with long screws into the frame.

Asked By Jim Mellowes | Feb 5 12
3 Answers

Hi, I recently bought an 1840s farmhouse with an original, as I am told, standing seam tin roof. It's a one and half storey, timber framed house with a layer of brick. I haven't figured out if the house is 'piece sur piece' styled log house or if it is post and beam that was later covered in brick. I don't know much about this, just started to learn since I bought the house. Anyway, the roof has wooden soffits with no vents, there are no real roof vents either.

Asked By Michael Jordan | Feb 4 12
12 Answers

My name is Michael Garrison, a 30 year carpenter with 17 years building experience in Alaska. I had a friend who used straw insulation. The condensation inside the structure caused a mold to develop that put off a gas that caused a serious lung infection and almost killed him. Have you heard of any other instances of this effect? Thank you for your time.

Asked By Michael Garrison | Feb 1 12
12 Answers

Hi

I am working on plans for a new house and have been looking at a couple of options for the exterior wall assembly. Climate zone 5, coastal, very humid summers. Will probably be forced air heat and central AC for cooling.

Looking for approx. R-40 walls.

I am leaning towards a double 2x4 stud wall filled full with cellulose. I prefer the environmental benefits of cellulose over spray foam and rigid foam. It also seems like detailing/ flashing at windows/ doors etc are much easier with a double stud wall than rigid foam on the exterior.

Asked By Chris Harris | Feb 2 12
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!