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6 Answers

Is my uninsulated garage making my house hot?

I have an attached uninsulated garage with its own attic, is that why it is so hot in my Austin, TX house?

Asked By K C | Jul 16 15
3 Answers

Reliability/durability of Mitsubishi vs. Fujitsu mini-split heat pumps?

I am looking into a 3-zone cold-climate heat pump for my zone 6A home in Vermont. The proposals I've received are for (a) Mitsubishi MXZ-3C30NAHZ and (b) Fujitsu AOU24RLXFZH.

Asked By Jonathan Teller-Elsberg | Jul 30 15
5 Answers

Another crawl space...

I would like to improve upon the poly vapor barrier that exists on the dirt floor of my crawlspace. I have read the ‘crawlspace article’ penned by Martin but have some specific questions.

Asked By Rob Shuman | Jul 30 15
2 Answers

Can a home have Grade 1 insulation quality and ceiling strapping?

Strapping with fiberglass batts seems to be what is used on most/many new New England construction. You could achieve closer to grade 1 insulation with a blown in product but even that will most likely have some voids/gaps. How do you grade this common practice? Some areas near Maryland go to another extreme with sprinkler piping. The code officials are making the batts go above the water pipes creating hugs gaps. Can this be grade 1?

Asked By Mark Bashista | Jul 31 15
0 Answers

Window flashing I like...

I just was shown Huber's stretchy tape for window flashing. I like it. Mikey should like it. Try it folks, I bet like Mikey, you'll like it.

http://www.huberwood.com/zipsystem/stretch-tape

Asked By aj builder, Upstate NY Zone 6a | Jul 31 15
7 Answers

How to better insulate my roof

I have a log home with a high ceiling. It has 2by 12 roof rafters. Which means I have 10inches of insulation. I live in northern NY. I want to know if I put 2inch foam panels and a metal roof will it increase my r rating? I seem to lose a lot of heat through the ceiling and it's very hot in the summer.

Asked By Rodney Coryer | Jul 26 15
7 Answers

Final countdown: Will 2 inches of rigid foam be worth it for me?

Hello all!

I have been asking questions and researching energy efficiency for the past two years. Finally I am getting around to building my own home and will be installing, or not installing, rigid foam in the next couple weeks!

My house build is financed mostly by a construction loan.

  • I have calculated $2,380 in the cost of rigid foam
  • $160 in material to bump out window and door openings 2"
  • $80-$160 in Aluminum
  • $300-$500 for labor to get Aluminum fabricated for the bottom
  • $40 in cap nails
Asked By Nicholas C | Jul 28 15
11 Answers

We were looking to replace our front door which has 2 flanking sidelights

The door appears original to the house which was built in late 1890s (all glass is single-pane and the door has no weatherstripping). Needless to say, it's very drafty (we use rope caulk to seal gaps and plastic to cover windows in winter).

We've had 3 estimates for the work, all ranging between $3,000-$5,000 bucks. All contractors cite unknown condition of framing, subfloor, etc.

Asked By Christian Rodriguez | Jul 27 15
3 Answers

Insulate ducts in conditioned basement?

I have been air sealing my ducts as best I can with mastic. I now have the first 4 feet or so of supply duct from the furnace sweating pretty good whenever it's on. This is all in the basement, which we use as another family room like area, don't use it as much as the first and second floor, but a fair amount.

In the summer it's freezing with the air conditioning on and the ducts sweat for a few feet, as mentioned.

In the winter, however, it's still a little chilly, certainly not overly warm.

Asked By Jeremy M | Jul 27 15
32 Answers

More confused....open vs. closed spray foam for my climate zone

Hi,

I want to finish off my third floor. My house is in Richmond, VA - Climate Zone 4 - (right in the middle of the zone). House was built in 1993. The attic is walk up and rafter built with 2x8s. Here are some pics of the space:

Asked By Joe Watson | Jul 21 15
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