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1 Answer

I have a recurring question / situation that comes up in my east central MN location (6b-7a border). There are many 1970's homes undergoing remodeling and looking to add insulation for improved comfort and energy effciency. Miost common construction is drywall, kraft faced R13, 2x4 walls, 3/4" Bildrite (asphalt fiberboard sheathing).

Asked By Troy Tvedt | Apr 17 14
5 Answers

We are finishing a space above our garage, about 26 x 26', to make a studio, and are trying to keep costs down and still insulate it well. Is the difference in price between the two types justified in improved insulating quality over time or is the actual insulation pretty comparable? The cellulose people are adamant about their product, and the fiberglass people say the difference is negligible. And then how much more/less green are the two? Thank you!

Asked By Patricia Basha | Apr 17 14
23 Answers

How about an affordable not-so-big house?
3 Bedroom 2 bath ....1,400 sf.....
One DUCTLESS Mini-split
and a thoughtfully DESIGNED ventilation "system"....

With properly 'tuned' enclosure design and "tuned" windows......
Could it be made to "work" (satisfy 90% of occupants) ?
in San Diego?
in Seatle?
in Boston?
in Fargo?
in Dallas?

If Not ..... Why Not?

Asked By John Brooks | Apr 11 14
6 Answers

How tight does a house need to be at ACH 50, before an ERV or HRV is recommended?

Asked By Allen Brown | Apr 12 14
3 Answers

My builder is going to use 5 inches of EPS rather than 4 inches of XPS on the exterior walls. His reasoning is the same insulation value for a little less money ....any pro's or con's either way?
Thanks,
Bob

Asked By bob holodinsky | Apr 15 14
1 Answer

I have a cabin that has a 1/2 inch layer of Homasote as the ceiling in the main living area. We just added heat and air conditioning and I wanted to blow in Insulation (cellulose) in the 5 1/2 inches above the homasote. Will this cause excessive moisture to accumulate and will the Homasote bulge from the extra weight and humidity. I found a product at Lowes that is 3 1/2 fiberglass insulation covered in plastic on both sides that I might be able to get down there. Would this be a better idea? The cabin has a metal roof with no eave vents or ridge vents. Thanks

Asked By Rob Beaumont | Apr 14 14
57 Answers

I am currently looking to put forced air heating and air conditioning into my house. I am located in Long Island, NY in zone 4a, right on the border of 5a. We recently gutted the entire house down to the studs and we are replacing the whole heating system. We will be using gas heat. The contractor that I think we are going to go with is going to install a furnace in the basement for the basement and ground floor, and a furnace in the attic for the second floor. Well also have a blower in the attic for the air conditioning.

Asked By Kevin Schramm | Sep 3 13
10 Answers

Hi everyone,

Asked By Nicholas Brown | Apr 4 14
7 Answers

How should we deal with Private Rooms?

1. Don't worry about it
2. Seek clients who are not too concerned about comfort
3. Keep bedroom doors open (especially when occupied)
4. Provide Radiant Panels and Don't worry about Cooling
5. Preheat the Ventilation Air and Don't worry about Cooling
6. Undercut the door and pray
7. Provide a Ductless in every Private room instead of the Common Space(s)
8. Provide Transfer Fans between Public and Private Rooms
9. Don't Do Ductless
10. Other

Asked By John Brooks | Apr 8 14
8 Answers

I have a 16 X 28 work shop with a metal roof installed over felt and OSB Sheating with silver radiant barrier on the underside. The outside walls are covered by 7/16 OSB and Hardi Board planks.

I live in South Texas where it gets extremely hot and while building, I added soffits and a ridge vent with gable vents to help the air flow but it still gets fairly hot inside. I will install an 8 ft interior ceiling made of sheet rock and for the walls, I will use 7/16 OSB.

Asked By Leonard Lyle | Apr 8 14
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