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27 Answers

Hi,
I live in Massachusetts (Zone 5A) and have some space over the garage that I would like to finish as an office. The space has a sloped roof with 2x8 rafters, with soffit vents and a ridge vent (but no existing insulation). I'll be adding some 5 foot kneewalls and a ceiling, leaving about 4-5 feet of cathedral ceiling between the two.

What are my options for insulating the space? I have looked at closed cell insulation but quotes have come in at about $5-6K to insulate the entire roof deck (no venting). So I'm looking for cheaper alternatives.

I am thinking this (outside in):

Asked By Andrew K | Oct 4 13
23 Answers

How about an affordable not-so-big house?
3 Bedroom 2 bath ....1,400 sf.....
One DUCTLESS Mini-split
and a thoughtfully DESIGNED ventilation "system"....

With properly 'tuned' enclosure design and "tuned" windows......
Could it be made to "work" (satisfy 90% of occupants) ?
in San Diego?
in Seatle?
in Boston?
in Fargo?
in Dallas?

If Not ..... Why Not?

Asked By John Brooks | Apr 11 14
6 Answers

How tight does a house need to be at ACH 50, before an ERV or HRV is recommended?

Asked By Allen Brown | Apr 12 14
3 Answers

My builder is going to use 5 inches of EPS rather than 4 inches of XPS on the exterior walls. His reasoning is the same insulation value for a little less money ....any pro's or con's either way?
Thanks,
Bob

Asked By bob holodinsky | Apr 15 14
1 Answer

I have a cabin that has a 1/2 inch layer of Homasote as the ceiling in the main living area. We just added heat and air conditioning and I wanted to blow in Insulation (cellulose) in the 5 1/2 inches above the homasote. Will this cause excessive moisture to accumulate and will the Homasote bulge from the extra weight and humidity. I found a product at Lowes that is 3 1/2 fiberglass insulation covered in plastic on both sides that I might be able to get down there. Would this be a better idea? The cabin has a metal roof with no eave vents or ridge vents. Thanks

Asked By Rob Beaumont | Apr 14 14
57 Answers

I am currently looking to put forced air heating and air conditioning into my house. I am located in Long Island, NY in zone 4a, right on the border of 5a. We recently gutted the entire house down to the studs and we are replacing the whole heating system. We will be using gas heat. The contractor that I think we are going to go with is going to install a furnace in the basement for the basement and ground floor, and a furnace in the attic for the second floor. Well also have a blower in the attic for the air conditioning.

Asked By Kevin Schramm | Sep 3 13
10 Answers

Hi everyone,

Asked By Nicholas Brown | Apr 4 14
7 Answers

How should we deal with Private Rooms?

1. Don't worry about it
2. Seek clients who are not too concerned about comfort
3. Keep bedroom doors open (especially when occupied)
4. Provide Radiant Panels and Don't worry about Cooling
5. Preheat the Ventilation Air and Don't worry about Cooling
6. Undercut the door and pray
7. Provide a Ductless in every Private room instead of the Common Space(s)
8. Provide Transfer Fans between Public and Private Rooms
9. Don't Do Ductless
10. Other

Asked By John Brooks | Apr 8 14
8 Answers

I have a 16 X 28 work shop with a metal roof installed over felt and OSB Sheating with silver radiant barrier on the underside. The outside walls are covered by 7/16 OSB and Hardi Board planks.

I live in South Texas where it gets extremely hot and while building, I added soffits and a ridge vent with gable vents to help the air flow but it still gets fairly hot inside. I will install an 8 ft interior ceiling made of sheet rock and for the walls, I will use 7/16 OSB.

Asked By Leonard Lyle | Apr 8 14
12 Answers

I am moving from Southern California, where I typically don't heat or cool my home to Central Pennsylvania.

The home I am purchasing has Oil Forced Air Heat and Electric Hot Water and appliances.

There are no Natural Gas Lines near the home - so Natural Gas is not an option.

Asked By Jennifer Hogan | Apr 6 14
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