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1 Answer

Fireplace insert or glass doors + outside air intake?

I have a rather large fireplace that can clear the house of all heat, so I am never really using it. Would be nice to make it functional source of heat and have it as a backup for those times in winter we lose power or when minisplits can't cover entire heating load.

Question: do I have to go the expensive fireplace insert + outside air supply route, or going with the proper glass doors + outside air supply would give me good return on investment?

Asked By Apollo S | Feb 6 16
1 Answer

Hydronic Radiant Floor Heating Under Thick Slab

Hi All,
I have a timber framed house, the sub-floor of which was built with thick 2-in pine tongue and groove boards. This subfloor is also functioning as the main floor of the house in living room area, there is nothing on top of them. These boards have tons of character and I would like to keep them as the main floor.

I am renovating the down stairs and will be converting my hydronic base board heat to radiant floor in the kitchen and bathroom where I can run the pipes over the existing subfloor (plywood in these areas not the tongue and groove pine).

Asked By Ryan Wynne | Feb 4 16
6 Answers

Radiant Barrier House Wrap- Bug Screen at base of Air Gap?

Per the manufacture specs --- going to have a 1/2 air gap between the wall sheathing wrapped in perforated radiant barrier and the finish wall.

Looking for a durable screen to install at the base of the wall between the finish wall and the sheathing to let the air and moisture escape and no bugs to enter?

It seems Cor-a-vent has a fiber based screen that sounds like it wont last?

Any advice.

Asked By Brent Shafer | Feb 5 16
2 Answers

Advice on yet another vented cathedral ceiling using the "peanut brittle" method.

I am building my home and have a 24'X32' section with 13' walls then a cathedral ceiling at a 7:12 pitch with 2X10's 16OC. The roof is steel with an unvented ridge cap, DuPont synthetic roof underlayment and 19/32 OSB on top of the 2X10 rafters. I will be dropping the ceiling 20" from the bottom of the ridge beam to create a mini attic for several reasons: ease electrical and ceiling fan installs, provide venting into "mini-attice" from each rafter bay into the space and out a gable vent on each end, and ultimately lower my heated space slightly closer to the living area.

Asked By Adam Rahmlow | Feb 5 16
1 Answer
5 Answers

Roof underlayment

Building in zone 3,cathedral ceeling in 3rd floor bonus room,using 3.5 inches of OCF and 3.5 inches of cheaper in trusses,than using a john mansville nailbase,we will have first layer of 7/16 osb roof sheathing than put nailbase down,what kind of underlayment would you advise to go on top of nailbase and under standing seam room.

Also what is the most cost effective window flashing,zip,tyvek straight flash etc.

Asked By Quinton Bryant | Feb 2 16
3 Answers

Siding house in Maine

I am stripping and resideing my house I was looking at a product called prodex insulation it says it works as a vapor barrier as well as a high r-value what do you think of this type of product thanks

Asked By David Bernard | Feb 4 16
0 Answers

What is best & permanent adhesive and sealant for metal roof screws/seams?

I have a u-channel metal roof. The washer screws that go through the roof into the plywood and rafters are backing out dozens a year and many are stripped. I want to tighten or replace them as needed and use something to keep them in as well as seal the threads and gaps watertight.

Any suggestions on procedures and materials?

Also, what is the proper location to put the screws? Through the raised part or the valleys? I see both on my roof.

Asked By Andy Nels | Feb 3 16
0 Answers

Basement Remodel/Subfloor questions

I have a few questions about my plan to insulate a subfloor in the basement.

Let me provided the pertinent details and my purposed plan.

The brick ranch house located in zone 4a (Virginia) was built in 1965. It has both an above and below grade basement. The structure is concrete block. The front long wall and one short wall are completely below grade. The back wall and half of the other side wall are above grade. The basement is conditioned.

Asked By Steve Basic | Feb 3 16
8 Answers

Roxul comfort board in basement?

I spoke to someone at the Roxul company the other day who recommended the following basement insulation. First, tyvek or similar against the concrete basement wall, then 1 1/4 " roxul comfort board for a thermal break, then a stud wall filled with roxul batts--- sheetrock. Do you see a real problem with water condensing on the concrete with the comfort board and tyvek there? Still seems like too much work but I am curious performance wise.

Asked By Nyle Phillips | Sep 27 12
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