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2 Answers

Material to dry in upper level deck over living space for tile

Can anyone help me with this? Flooring is Advantech, want to tile. Deck is roofed. Thanks for your help.

Asked By Sue Miller | Nov 24 14
2 Answers

Round window flashing and water management

I have a situation with a remodel on a 1970's house with one round window that was replaced. The new window is installed, and the company had me replace siding and trim around the window. The window is an aluminum clad round (well, round with a flat section at the bottom, roughly 4" above where the siding stops).

We started out by installing sheathing on the wall- it had been built with no sheathing- it's a complicated wall with two round windows, and there are custom steel brackets holding everything in place (sort of).

Asked By lavrans mathiesen | Nov 23 14
23 Answers

Polyiso on interior


Living in the Bellingham area north of Seattle it can get cold. The house was heated by propane, it was a cost that was hard to get hold of especially with some of the design of the house. (high ceiling)

I set out to improve the insulation of the home taking bits and pieces off the internet as to the techniques available these days.

I am a bit "OCD" now that the living room is for the most part done "I have some hidden inward worries". I wonder if I am trapping moisture inside my walls having used the foilfaced polyiso just behind the sheetrock.

Asked By William Lucrisia | Nov 21 14
10 Answers

Crawl space encapsulation

Hey Folks - I know the topics has been covered but I am still scratching my head and need some clarification and I will but this project to rest.

Crawlspace Encapsulation

I live north of Seattle, WA. in Bellingham - I believe it to be Zone 4a (Marine Zone)
I have about 1000 sq. ft. of crawlspace I am beginning to encapsulate.
I have no bulk water issues.
I have 12 mil SilverBack liner for the walls and 20mil SilverBack liner for the earth.
I found a great deal on new Polyiso fiberglass faced rigid foam board 2" thick. (Firestone ISO 95)

Asked By William Lucrisia | Nov 17 14
2 Answers

Is this a sufficient wall system for my basement?

Zone 6a. One inch foundation plus type two eps foam adhered directly to concrete with PL. Seams taped and corners spray foamed. 24 oc studs with r20 fibreglass Batts. Should I include a poly vapor barrier before drywall? I've been told to omit this as the foundation plus should be sufficient enough for a vapour barrier. Also should I spray foam the small portion of exposed concrete at the top of the wall between the type two foam and the Sill plate? I should also mention it's an eight foot foundation with about six and a half feet below grade.

Asked By Mark McKenzie | Nov 20 14
8 Answers

Moisture in exterior wall

I have posted questions several times regarding my double wall assembly on a house that I am in the process of building in a very cold climate. At the present time, the drywall is being finished and my air exchange system is not yet running as I don't want the system on when there is a lot of dust. I am running a dehumidifier which is taking out a lot of moisture from the air but certainly not enough. I am heating with electric heaters, keeping the house around 64-70F. My humidity is ~50-60% as a result of the new construction and the mudding that is happening on the drywall.

Asked By Matthew Michaud | Nov 17 14
5 Answers

Condensate moisture around window frames

I am in the process of foaming and taping the spaces between my interior window frames and boxes. I have noticed that after sealing the gap with tape (after foam has cured) that I begin to have slight moisture on the tape surface only on the bottom section of the window frame. I didn't notice it after I foamed and before I taped; only after taping. I have also noticed it under my exterior door, on the interior side, despite proper sealing of the door frame on the sill (It's certainly not water from the exterior making its way in).

Asked By Matthew Michaud | Nov 2 14
2 Answers

Drywall or not?

I am building a house with cathedral ceiling, which will be finish with some pine wooden plank. I remember reading in GBA the necessity to have plastered drywall underneath the wooden plank so it can serve as an air barrier.
In my case I will have some roxul insolation then polyisoyanurate panel then fur strip and then the wood plank, my question is do I still need to have plastered drywall under the wood plank or is the polyiso panel will also act as the air barrier therefore drywall is not necessary.

Please advise
Thank you in advance


Asked By Pierre Gingras | Nov 3 14
5 Answers

How to seal 4" EPS foam at slab edge (radon concerns)?

Basement concrete 4" slab to be poured on top of 10mil poly, 4" EPS (2 layers staggered seams), and gravel at bottom with perimeter drains connected to vertical radon vent pipe. Building in a high radon zone, will the poly be sufficient covering the 4"x4" foam perimeter strips not covered by concrete at the slab edge? Should I be tapering the foam edge instead of keeping the full width of 4"x4" strips?

Asked By e c | Oct 29 14
2 Answers

How to deal with a void (cricket space) above an unvented flat roof?

we're in the process of building a new house and originally had a non vented roof assembly detailed for the flat roof portion of the house where we had a single ply membrane over sloped rigid insulation over a vapor barrier over roof sheathing, with batt insulation placed tight against underside of roof sheathing.

Asked By Rachel Kim | Oct 27 14
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