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8 Answers

To install engineered hardwood flooring over a basement slab, can I use (2) 3/8" CDX plywood over 1/2" XPS?

QUESTIONS: Can I use 2 layers 3/8” CDX Southern Pine plywood (joints staggered, glued & screwed together, but NOT mechanically attached to the slab) over 1/2" XPS? Whether I install the plywood sheathing over a vapor-retarder or rigid foam insulation, is CCA treated plywood necessary in either case? Which installation method (e.g. rigid foam or vapor-retarder) do you recommend in view of my concerns below?

Asked By Kevin Peters | Dec 11 14
8 Answers

To install engineered hardwood flooring over a basement slab, can I use (2) 3/8" CDX plywood over 1/2" XPS?

QUESTIONS: Can I use 2 layers 3/8” CDX Southern Pine plywood (joints staggered, glued & screwed together, but NOT mechanically attached to the slab) over 1/2" XPS? Whether I install the plywood sheathing over a vapor-retarder or rigid foam insulation, is CCA treated plywood necessary in either case? Which installation method (e.g. rigid foam or vapor-retarder) do you recommend in view of my concerns below?

Asked By Kevin Peters | Dec 11 14
7 Answers

Proper installation of 2 adjacent outdoor mini-split units?

We just finished a major renovation project that included sprayfoaming, all new windows, and one new Fujitsu Halcyon mini-split on each of the three levels. The temps are now dropping here in Maine, so we're finally getting a chance to experience the heating capabilities after a ton of research I did on this site and others (we do have backup electric heated floors and a propane fireplace ducted to the lower and upper levels as supplemental heat sources for brutally cold times).

Asked By Phil Knutel | Dec 6 14
0 Answers

I bought an Eichler-style home in central Florida with a flat Ickes-Braun skylight

I bought an Eichler-style home in central Florida with a flat Ickes-Braun skylight, 8x20 ft.
There are five 4x8 ft panels.

Asked By rick baynton | Dec 4 14
22 Answers

Plumbing - home run, remote manifold or other design?

I will be remodeling my home which involves relocation of kitchen and baths. I will be running 1" copper to the main manifold, and then I will split off into PEX tubing. I'm getting nearly instant hot water in my current home config (<25 runs through 1/2" pipe). However, I will be nearly doubling the length of my longest runs. In the remodeled home,

- The longest run will be ~50' to the kitchen sink/dishwasher from the water heater
- Master bath will be about ~20' from the water heater
- Kids/guest Bathroom will be about 40' from the water heater

Questions:

Asked By Brad Stoppenhagen | Nov 29 14
2 Answers

Material to dry in upper level deck over living space for tile

Can anyone help me with this? Flooring is Advantech, want to tile. Deck is roofed. Thanks for your help.

Asked By Sue Miller | Nov 24 14
2 Answers

Round window flashing and water management

I have a situation with a remodel on a 1970's house with one round window that was replaced. The new window is installed, and the company had me replace siding and trim around the window. The window is an aluminum clad round (well, round with a flat section at the bottom, roughly 4" above where the siding stops).

We started out by installing sheathing on the wall- it had been built with no sheathing- it's a complicated wall with two round windows, and there are custom steel brackets holding everything in place (sort of).

Asked By lavrans mathiesen | Nov 23 14
23 Answers

Polyiso on interior

Martin/Dana

Living in the Bellingham area north of Seattle it can get cold. The house was heated by propane, it was a cost that was hard to get hold of especially with some of the design of the house. (high ceiling)

I set out to improve the insulation of the home taking bits and pieces off the internet as to the techniques available these days.

I am a bit "OCD" now that the living room is for the most part done "I have some hidden inward worries". I wonder if I am trapping moisture inside my walls having used the foilfaced polyiso just behind the sheetrock.

Asked By William Lucrisia | Nov 21 14
10 Answers

Crawl space encapsulation

Hey Folks - I know the topics has been covered but I am still scratching my head and need some clarification and I will but this project to rest.

Crawlspace Encapsulation

I live north of Seattle, WA. in Bellingham - I believe it to be Zone 4a (Marine Zone)
I have about 1000 sq. ft. of crawlspace I am beginning to encapsulate.
I have no bulk water issues.
I have 12 mil SilverBack liner for the walls and 20mil SilverBack liner for the earth.
I found a great deal on new Polyiso fiberglass faced rigid foam board 2" thick. (Firestone ISO 95)

Asked By William Lucrisia | Nov 17 14
2 Answers

Is this a sufficient wall system for my basement?

Zone 6a. One inch foundation plus type two eps foam adhered directly to concrete with PL. Seams taped and corners spray foamed. 24 oc studs with r20 fibreglass Batts. Should I include a poly vapor barrier before drywall? I've been told to omit this as the foundation plus should be sufficient enough for a vapour barrier. Also should I spray foam the small portion of exposed concrete at the top of the wall between the type two foam and the Sill plate? I should also mention it's an eight foot foundation with about six and a half feet below grade.

Asked By Mark McKenzie | Nov 20 14
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