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9 Answers

Building on a rock ledge

Building a foundation is usually a pretty straight forward process in my part of the country. But I am considering a small lot that is likely more rock ledge or boulder than soil. The lot has great views in several directions, but I suspect the rock has deterred at least two previous owners from moving forward with their construction plans.

Asked By Steve Knapp CZ 3A Georgia | Apr 15 18
6 Answers

Roof assembly

I’m insulating the roof of my log cabin in northern MN, zone 7. Trying to get to r49 topped with standing seam metal. Question is what underlayment do I put on the first layer of decking under the insulation and what do I put on the sheathing on top just under the metal? Also, vent the metal or not? Thank you, Andy

Asked By user-6872567 | Apr 12 18
4 Answers

Searching for pretty good builder

I am in the planning stage for a 2,000 square foot pretty good house. It will be built in the outer reaches of the Atlanta metro. Recommendations can be posted here or emailed to joknapp2000 at yahoo dot com.

Asked By Steve Knapp CZ 3A Georgia | Apr 11 18
4 Answers

Cellulose

I thank everyone for their answers. It seems that I jumped the gun a little. I didn't even consider the weight of the cellulose and have already hung the ceiling drywall. Is there anything I could do after the fact to support this weight. Maybe strapping on top of the joist to help carry the load? Any other suggestions would be welcome.
Thank you

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Asked By steve stemper | Apr 4 18
2 Answers

Neat glass and other self-cleaning coatings: blessing or curse?

Looking at new windows and Neat Glass from Cardinal is an option. Titanium dioxide coating with "self-cleaning" properties. Looks like there is a 10 year warranty, but I'd like to hear opinions, mostly for long term ownership. I'm afraid it could turn into a streaky mess once the coating begins to degrade unevenly.

Asked By Mai Tai | Apr 3 18
6 Answers

Cellulose

I am in the process of building a new home and plan on using cellulose insulation in the attic. I hope to insulate the attic to r-60 which I believe is about 17" thick. My home has energy heel trusses (2x6 bottom chord) spaced on 24" centers. I have 1/2 drywall glued and screwed every 12" to the underside. Im worried about the weight of the cellulose on the drywall especially after it absorbs moisture from the air. Should I be concerned and if so what precautions should I take? Thank you.

Asked By steve stemper | Apr 2 18
4 Answers

Are there more cost effective ways to dry an old basement?

I have a 100 year old 21" thick fieldstone foundation in region 5 that has cracks and leaks water into the basement in the rainy season. I have read the above manual mentioned above,

https://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/publications/pdfs/building_americ...

as well as a fine home building article by Joseph Lstiburek as well and is there a way to use any less expensive product to allow for an interior drain plane such as dimple mat backed up with taped XPS or EPS foam instead of just closed cell spf? The cost of 3" spf is around $5 and will price me out of being able to do my home.

Asked By John Scanlan | Mar 27 18
2 Answers

Insulating block walls

I am currently remodeling an old gas station. The exterior walls are cinder block. The building is 26 feet by 48 feet with 12 foot high walls. One third of the building (26 feel by 16 feet) will be used for a meeting area and have two bathrooms. All of these walls have been framed up with dimensional lumber. The perimeter walls of this space have been insulated and a vapor barrier applied followed by drywall. The remainder of the building will be used as a heated storage area with no interior insulation. The exterior of the building is to have LP smart siding.

Asked By man of steele | Mar 20 18
15 Answers

How would you flash this difficult corner in stucco?

How should I flash the pictured tricky corner?

This is at the junction of a two story section and a one story lower flat roof done in foam. The pictured flashing was installed about 20 years ago, the wall below rotted and became a termite nest for various reasons, perhaps including the flashing.

The second picture is the twin of the flashing from the opposite corner. There's no evidence of rot there, but then again, the first corner's problems were not understood prior to removal of stucco.

The entire stucco corner below the window is off.

Asked By Bryce Nesbitt | Mar 7 18
1 Answer

Range hood for whole-house ventilation?

Zone 4A. Whole house ventilation requirement is 67 CFM. Windows open 6 months/year during shoulder seasons. Range hood exhausts 250 CFM and is connected to a makeup air duct with damper (air is delivered through MERV filter to a central stairwell/atrium for maximum mixing). Q: could I not add a controller that turns the range hood on 1 hour six times/day?
Note: open floor plan so exhaust would draw from most of house.

If yes, can anyone suggest a controller for the range hood exhaust?

Asked By David McNeely | Mar 2 18
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