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0 Answers

Looking for local GBA contractor in Chicago IL

Hello, I am looking for someone in the Chicago IL area to help guide me in building an underground roof. Do you have a list of contractors that are Green Builders in the IL area? Thank you!

Asked By bawhitn | Oct 19 17
3 Answers

Venting and finishing an attic of a timber frame home

I'm hoping some folks wiser than I can chime in with their thoughts on how to properly finish off the attic space of a former New England Barn.

In a nutshell here are the existing conditions:
-A 200+ year old Post and Beam building near the ocean. (good breezes)
-An unaccessible dirt floor crawl space with No vapor barrier
- Wall insulation : 1-2" Encompassed Balsa wood insulation snaking between offsetting 2x3's (airflow from the crawl space up thru the walls is good for air circulation and bad for R value.)
-2 finished floors of existing living space

Asked By Tates23 | Oct 3 17
2 Answers

I have a very old wood burning stove with an oval chimney outlet.

Can i use an oval to round adapter and seat the oval end OVER the oval opening of the stove and then continue to install the rest of the chimney?

Thanks

Asked By dtikberg | Oct 5 17
2 Answers

Insulating a 2/12 roof above the roof deck

My first house, purchased a couple of years ago, needs a new roof. We recently had a major storm in the area and all roofers seem to be so busy that it is difficult to have someone over to discuss my case. So far I spoke with 3 roofers, each with a different idea, so I am doing my own research to see my options.

I have done some research but none of discussed roof setups was identical to mine.
- Zone 5 (Chicago), cold winters and hot summers,
- Basic gable roof, two slopes only,
- 1 story ranch on slab,
- 2/12 roof pitch,
- Unvented roof,
- No attic
- No ceiling insulation,

Asked By Bary_g | Oct 3 17
3 Answers

So poly is bad, and in to out vapour diffusion is a myth : what about wet rooms?

If read enough articles about the dreaded old school polyethylene vapour barrier that it is likely not a good idea for most walls of my building (zone 5.5, 2X6 wall with 2" xps). If I go dense pack cellulose, will likely have to use membrain to appease the inspector (or convince him the special paint is ok).

Even with all of this bad press, does poly still have a place in my zone? I routinely see it specced on the attic sealing (just above the drywall)by well informed people, is that still the norm? Why is the ceiling different?

Asked By Mai Tai | Sep 29 17
10 Answers

Insulating my slab

Climate zone 4a. I am in the process of insulating my basement walls with 4" of xps and had been planning on insulating my slab with 1/2" or 1" xps but as I read more and more on GBA I am now wondering if it's even worth it. I will definitely insulate the exterior of my slab with 2-3" of xps depending on how much I can get away with before it extends beyond my siding but after reading some of Martin's comments to other people's questions I am leaning towards forgoing the slab insulation. To one person he wrote that 1/2" of xps is "fairly insignificant" and 1" of xps "isn't much".

Asked By Matthew Seabolt | Sep 25 17
3 Answers

Climate Zone 3-strategy for venting or not venting a small attic kneewall space?

Climate Zone 3. I have a Finished Room of the Garage (FROG) with kneewalls that has wood paneling on the finished side. The paneling started to show signs of moisture issues. I removed the paneling and found no mold in the space but elevated moisture (22%). R13 insulation with vapor retarder on warm on winter side is present. There is not much room between the kneewall and the exterior wall of the reverse A. Essentially a double 2x4 wall is it.

Asked By JGood2170 | Sep 22 17
4 Answers

How to protect a wood foundation

My house is a walk-in bungalow built into the bottom part of a hill in 1985 approx. and has a wood foundation.

With the high levels of humidity this year, I was concerned about the indoor air quality. Among other measures, a local contractor has commenced excavating around the house, allowing the foundation to dry and is inserting some drainage around the building. The foundation appears to be in good condition. I am also looking into other measures inside the house.

My issue is I’m now getting very conflicting advice on how to proceed moving forward.

Asked By Chelsea 7T | Sep 19 17
1 Answer

Engineered or traditional wood floors?

We are building a home in New Hampshire. There is radiant heat in slab in the basement floor and climate panels on first floor. We get conflicting information: On the first floor with climate panels, some folks tell us it is o.k. to use traditional 3/4" wood,such as oak or red birch, over the panels. Others say the heat will dry out and crack the wood, and we should use engineered panels that have a veneer of real wood over plywood.

In the basement, we are told that if you glue down the engineered wood panels thoroughly, they can be applied to the cement without problems.

Asked By Frank Torti | Sep 13 17
25 Answers

Insulation retrofit

Looking for some advice on a smallish rehab project I am about to start. I've read many of the great articles and Q&A discussions here, so I think have bit of direction...but as I am novice, I am interested in some feedback before I moved forward.

Asked By Jeremy Kachejian | Jan 12 17
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