Community: GBA Pro help

Besides completely gutting the entire house (plaster, lath, mechanicals,etc) removing damaged framing members and painting with BIN sealer, what other lessons have been learned?

After it is 100% gutted, any problem with power washing if weather permits drying? Place was already dowsed by fire department in the winter, and shows signs of mold throughout, but many of the wood floors still seem salvageable, if the odor is eliminated.

Please advise asap. Work in progress, searching for the cure.

Matt

I have a 10'deep x 5' diameter pre-cast concrete man hole with two pumps alternating for my 6" footing drains located outside of the house. This is a new construction house. I put down 12" inches of trap rock in the basement floor with 4" perforated pipe and grid pattern tied into my six-inch footing drains. I also put down filter fabric before the trap rock went down and over the 6"perforated pipe. What is happening is a orange colored clay is sticking on the inside wall of the 2" pipe closing it down to 1"on the inside walls. Seems like every six months this occurs.

I'm curious about rainscreens, which seem to be reccomended by building science experts, but not reccomended by manufacturers. A case in point: James Hardie Inc does not reccomend a rainscreen behind its Hardiepanel product, but there seems to be some kind of loose consensus that you will have water and mold problems unless you use a rainscreen behind a product like Hardiepanel.

I'm weighing the differences in efficiency, cost and buildability of achieving an R-60 timber framed (vaulted) roof system in a cold climate (Western Massachusetts). I believe my options to be; structural insulating panels, a combination of SIP's and rigid insulation, a combination of stick framing, cellulose and rigid, or trusses overlayed on the frame and filled with cellulose.