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4 Answers

Loud popping in ceiling or attic since newer insulation and roof

We live in the northwest. In the winter there is no noise. As soon as it starts to warm up there are very loud popping noises that sound like they are coming from the attic or ceiling. Wondering about heat in the attic. Workers said there is a lot of insulation - not sure what kind.

Any ideas what to investigate?

Asked By M Miles | May 20 15
6 Answers

Exterior foam as WRB

I know this question has been asked so many times and I've done my research but can rigid foam be used as a trusted WRB? Specifically XPS? I am in a cold climate and have read in my research that XPS outperforms polyiso. My original plan was 4" of XPS with house wrap over the foam as I will also be installing new windows which will be "outies". I am just confused if the foam is sufficient with the taped joints or if the house wrap is necessary. So much research has been done but there are mixed results and I want to get right on the first try.

Asked By Brian Otten | May 17 15
5 Answers

How to tie in existing shingled roof when adding exterior foam?

I am adding 4" of rigid foam to my house and am looking for suggestions on how to flash where the adjacent wall ties into existing roof shingles. I am curious if there is a way to put the foam on top of the shingles and then flash. This would, of course, cover the existing step flashing and I am not sure if it is a good idea. My original thought was to remove the shingles close the wall and butt the foam straight to the roof underlayment and redo the connection on the outside of the foam with proper tape, peel and stick, and step flashing. Is there a better way?

Asked By Brian Otten | May 14 15
3 Answers

Poor man's spray foam help

Newbie here:

I am rehabbing a stickbuilt cottage in FL. It was torn back to studs by the previous owner. I obtained permits and am actively getting through the inspections and such. Next step is insulation. I discussed the process of foaming in cut foamboards and the county seemed ok with it. I bought 1 1/2 inch polyiso board from a recycle group that is in great shape. I have close to 200 4' x 8' boards.

Asked By Ferrell Brown | May 14 15
8 Answers

Foam under slab details

New residential construction, Zone 4A, slab on grade with attached garage. Three questions:

1. Most builders around here pour the entire slab flat; in other words, no slope to garage door and no step up into the house. Is this an okay practice?

2. I plan to put 2 ½" of foam sheets below the slab for R-10. Is there any compelling reason to continue the foam under the garage part of the slab (there would be no thermal break, the slab would be contiguous).

3. What is the detail for continuing the foam below bearing walls that will be supported by a thickened slab?

Asked By David McNeely | Mar 31 15
2 Answers

Radiant floor installer and drywall installer are at odds

I'm having a hydronic radiant floor installed over concrete using Styrofoam-type insulation tiles. The room division walls have not been constructed. The Heat installer says that the frame must be installed prior to the floor heat installation and the drywall installer says that the frame is to be installed on top of the floor material. We are using metal frames. Please advise.

Thank you for your response.

Asked By Ann Dopico | May 13 15
4 Answers

ZIP R-Sheathing Climate Zone 5?

I am considering ZIP R-sheathing for a home in Climate Zone 5. The wall assembly would be a ventilated rainscreen as follows (exterior to interior)

1. Hardie Panel siding
2. 3/4" furring/airspace
3. ZIP 1.5" R-sheathing (R6.6 total, 12-16 perms for the OSB, <1.0 perm for the polyiso)
4. 2x6 studs
5. Icynene Low Density (5.5" thick R-20, 11 perms)
6. 1/2" gypsum

Asked By Joseph Yount | May 12 15
13 Answers

Critique this approach to insulating and heating, please

I was hoping to get some input on the attached plans, with regard to the building envelope and best approach to heating/cooling.I am building in Morris County, NJ. zone 5a
I like the philosophy of building the tightest envelope and keeping the heating/cooling loads low.I plan on doing a blower door test after framing and before the window/door sheathing is removed for maximum tightness.

Asked By Brian McDonald | May 10 15
3 Answers

Who do I contact or is analysis done here?

I have a new construction house that is designed and ready to be built.

I am satisfied with the layout, but need expert analysis on choosing the insulation and HVAC strategy.

I want someone to look specifically at my plans and advise me on this particular project. I am unsatisfied with the "spray foam seems to work well, or i sell a bunch of...." responses that I am getting.

Who performs this type of service? How do i find someone reputable?
Do I just upload plans here in another post?

I live in Northern NJ zone 5A.

Thank you for your help

Asked By Brian McDonald | May 4 15
3 Answers

What causes condensation in every window in the house?

Recently we built a new home with stucco exterior and icynene spray foam insulation. In the winter months condensation develops in every window of the house even the front door. What could be causing this problem? I suspect the heating and cooling contractor may have used the bubble wrap underneath the house to wrap the heating and cooling distribution system. Could this be the problem?
Thanking you in advance for your cooperation and advice.

Asked By Joann Mullins | May 8 15
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