Community: GBA Pro help

Q & A Instructions

[Click map to enlarge]

The GBAGreenBuildingAdvisor.com web site has a wealth of articles on a wide variety of construction topics. Before posting your question, you may want to check out the articles on this page: How To Do Everything. You just might discover an article there that provides the information you seek.

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

If you want to post a question, the usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration: Under the box labeled “More explanation,” look for the words “File attachments.” Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!


1 Answer

How do we hire a green building advisor on an hourly basis?

Does greenbuildingadvisor maintain a directory of recommended consultants?

Asked By Joe Martin | May 24 18
7 Answers

32'x42' concrete slab, 4"-5" thick, on foam and stable sand base: Do I need saw cuts?

Just poured the garage and had it sealed with a cure and seal compound. Slab ended up 5" in places (nominal 4"). I sits on 1 inch of foam and Ampex radiant panels (3 inch foam equivalent total). It's a floating slab, with 2 inches of foam separating it from the frost walls. The whole thing is on 4' of compacted sand, that sat for a year before the pour. Slab is 32 Mpa concrete with microfiber, no steel reinforcement.

My question is, do I really need the saw cuts? I would be willing to deal with the odd crack. I figure it would be a lot easier to keep the floor clean without the saw cuts.

Asked By Mai Tai | May 17 18
3 Answers

Beetles!

I've just found beetles (see picture). I know the signs, little holes in the wood all over.
This is on a 1925 stucco home in the San Francisco Bay Area fog belt. The evidence was found on a open foundation vent that's not protected from weather (apparently never painted since 1925).

Similar beetle damage appears on a decades old stored wood pile on the other side of the house, which cannot be moved because of the owner.

Asked By Bryce Nesbitt | May 16 18
1 Answer

Effloresence on concrete ceiling

Hello. I have a client with a basement that has a concrete ceiling section about 10'x35'. There is a brick walkway above it and it has leaked into the basement cieling causing efflorescence and that drops all over what they have stored in the basement.
Though someone sprayed Moxie on the exterior surface of the bricks, client reports they still have leaks in basement cieling that cause lines of efflorescence, which, again, falls on their pocessions stored below.

Asked By RSBme | May 14 18
4 Answers

Attic insulation

Hi, My air conditioner doesn't keep the house cool enough in the summer. I live in SW Florida and the house was built in the 80's. The existing blown in insulation has matted down. I'm about to get a new roof. I'm hoping that if I seal the attic cracks plus add inslulation it may solve my problem. I've come across many options and not sure which/what to do, they include which insulation should I use, fiberglass or foam on the floor, should I put a couple of inches rigid foam insulation between the roof and the plywood and insulation on the inside ceiling of the roof between the rafters?

Asked By OntheWater1 | May 11 18
6 Answers

ERV intake location

I am almost done with a new build and am worried about my ERV intake location. House has a hip roof and all exhaust are on the backside of roof except the erv intake which is placed on the side of the hip roof. I do not have adequate room to go out any side walls. Should I worry about the erv intake drawing asphalt shingle gases into the house? Currently there is just a standard broan black roof vent cover with the damper taken out for the intake.

Thanks so much
Jeremy

Asked By User-7068173 | May 9 18
3 Answers

Advice on a Mitsubishi minisplit installation for cooling only

Hi, I have some questions for you heating and cooling experts.

My situation:
- Seattle, WA 3-storey house (climate zone 4), 3500 sqft, no basement, on concrete slab.
- The house is adequately heated with hydronic heat, so we only need minisplits for cooling.
- There is a single open stairwell which spans all 3 floors.
- The house is also internally insulated (inside walls/floors have insulation).

Asked By rubycon | May 7 18
22 Answers

I've been following this site ever since our very uninformed decision to purchase a 1 1/2 story house

Good morning All!
First of all, many thanks for the invaluable information and advice....been following this site ever since our very uninformed decision to purchase a 1 1/2 story house in Twin Cities, MN. If only we knew.... Paying dearly for it but ig...

I have the impending siding job so adding the gables would be quite easy at this point

Asked By MN2008 | Apr 23 18
6 Answers

Can Housewrap 'melt' under steel siding?

I am installing metal siding on a new construction Home and planned on installing Hydrogap by Benjamin Obdyke underneath. The siding contractor has expressed concern that the paper or the dimples on it may melt.
Has anyone ever experienced housewrap 'melting' from the suns heat.

Asked By user-7015584 | Apr 22 18
8 Answers

Slab on grade house and garage : can I pour the floors once the shell is up?

I currently have the footings frost walls (4'), and the sandy base filled in and tamped for the slab. The house is roughly 50'X30', 2 storey, and the floor joists can technically span 30' (24" deep trusses), but the plan has a "supporting" wall roughly in the middle of the width to keep the floor span at 15-17'.

The garage is 30'X40', with no supporting walls (wide open).

Asked By Mai Tai | Apr 21 18
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!