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4 Answers

Vapor barrier for floating cork floor

I live in Peoria, Illinois (Zone 5A). I'm installing a floating cork floor over an upstairs plywood subfloor. Nearly every website I see preaches on the importance of using a vapor barrier under floating floors, but I've also seen vehement advice against it. The planks I'm installing have a thin cork layer on the bottom, so I really shouldn't use a vapor barrier right?

Asked By Yvette Richey | Jul 9 15
7 Answers

Log walls and foil facing

Hi,

We are planing to add 3 inches of rigid foam to the outside of our 6 inch log home, giving the walls R 28, better then the R9 we get with just the pine logs. We will also have a ¾ rain screen under cedar siding. I have been reading that if you had a polyethylene vapor barrier in the house, to not use foam with aluminum-foil facing.

Asked By Thomas Gardner | Jul 3 15
3 Answers

Nebraska — unvented attic with high humidity

Last year after a severe hailstorm the attic insulation and the entire roof deck of my 1600 sqft ranch style home in Fort Calhoun, NE was replaced. With the replacement we upgraded the insulation to Open Cell Icynene spray foam on roof decking. The spray foam is at least 6-8 inches on the roof, and covers the sidewalls, soffits, and attached garage ceiling. This completely closes in the attic to the thermal envelope of the house. I've been monitoring the relative humidity levels of the house for the last year.

Asked By Nick Schuler | Jun 28 15
3 Answers

Details about drywall under tongue and groove as an air barrier

I have read often on gba about the importance of using an air barrier under tongue and groove and I may be over thinking it but it seems that 1/2" ultralight has the potential for more air leaks around nail penetrations due to occasional voids in ultralight and that 1/2" could more likely bust around nail penetrations and let air in versus 5/8" but before I wear myself out hanging 77 lb sheets I figured I should ask an expert.

Thanks,

Matt

Asked By Matthew Seabolt | Jul 1 15
1 Answer

Where to put the water barrier?

Hi,
I'm going to retrofit rigid foam over a log home in Vermont. The logs are 6 inch pine logs, that have an R value of about 9, they have a clapboard cut on the outside so the house will not appear any different with a 3 inch layer of foam insulation with a rain screen and clapboard.

My question is about where to put the tyvek, on the out side of the foam or under the foam? We are replacing all the windows and doors. It would seem to me that the tyvek belongs on the outside of the foam and over the flanges of the new windows and doors.

Asked By Thomas Gardner | Jul 2 15
2 Answers

Inground gutters

A few years back I came across an article in Finehomebuiling about inground gutters. Has anyone tried this solution to wet basements? Does it work?

Asked By Daniel Cimaglio | Jul 1 15
6 Answers

Trapped moisture on SIP roof

I knew SIPs were the Achilles heel of my 100% engineered house design, But because of inattention to detail, heavy rains at a critical time of my house build pushed water underneath the PVC membrane (applied on mechanically fastened DensDeck) onto my SIP. It happened the night before the adjacent wall could be spray foamed to properly seal off the membrane. Unfortunately, the spraying was later done to the walls and the underside of the SIPs without knowing there was water present.

Asked By Edward Mallett | Jun 29 15
42 Answers

Spaceloft my only option?

Needing to get all the R value I can get in a limited space. From the cob webs you can see that this is an old house. Recently installed Cedar shakes with felt underneath over the 2x4 studs or mini rafters...
I think they call this a skip sheathing install of the cedar roof?
So, 3.5" is all we have but we'd like to get to an R50 or thereabouts in our upgrade of this 1925 built home in Climate zone 4C.
Spaceloft seems the only option. With an R10 per inch. It comes in 10 cm thickness, 0.4".

Asked By Jan Verschuren | May 29 15
5 Answers

Flush-mount exterior electrical boxes in board & batten with rigid foam and rainscreen?

Good evening all,
I'm still working thru issues involving board and batten over strapping and rigid foam. Now I'm looking into the exterior electrical boxes (for outlets and for lights).
I'd like the boxes to be flush-mounted, with the "rain screen" (do we still call it a rain screen if the strapping is horizontal?) space serving as a conduit chase. That would minimize penetrations of the insulation and WRB- while avoiding surface-mounted conduit.

Asked By Ben Rush | Jun 25 15
3 Answers

Where's the smell coming from?

A musty, mildew smell emanates from 2 bedroom closets in the front of our single story 13± year old house every time it rains since we bought it 2 years ago (and before us no doubt)...but nowhere else in the house.

Asked By Sallye Esch | Jun 23 15
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