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7 Answers

Is this truss lift??

http://www.flickr.com//photos/65299059@N05/sets/72157629408912251/show/

The link is to images of this case. Click the "show info" upper right of slide show for captions.

This production house in S.E. Pa. has a trussed roof. It is 3 years old. The first season (October) a drywall joint opened up (1/4" +/-) at the change of ceiling plane in the picture where the flat ceiling meets the "cathedral" ceiling. The builder installed a foux beam over that area to conceal what they thought would be a seasonal event. Now the next joint over opens up seasonally.

Asked By Robert Post S.E. Pennsylvania Zone 4a | Feb 20 12

14 Answers

Applying Stucco over Foil faced foam

I am building a new home in Park City Utah at 7500 feet with an average winter high in the mid 30’s and lows in the high teens to low twenties…low humidity. I am planning to use 2” Hunter XCI
Polyisocyanurate foam core panel bonded to an impermeable foil facing material with a foil face providing an R value of 14.1. The foam is installed over tyvex and the interior walls will use a bib R23 system.

Asked By dennis levine | Feb 15 12

1 Answer

Can a combination of blue Dow board plus blown cellulose work well in an attic?

I live in zone 2B and have an old house with no insulation in the attic. I have no wiring, plumbing, or ductwork in the attic and it is unvented. Advised to spray open cell foam on the attic floor between ceiling joists (2X4 on 24 inch centers). Was hoping 3 layers of blue Dow board with foam around edges between joists to air seal space and provide moisture barrier and then loose blown cellulose on top might work almost as well but for less$$. Please advise.

Paul in Texas

Asked By Paul Hanslik | Feb 10 12

4 Answers

Flashing Details for Panel Siding

I am wondering if anyone has any advice on properly flashing window and door penetrations when using a panel type siding. My specific project specifies LP Smartside reverse board and batten siding in 4x8 sheets. The windows and doors are aluminum clad, with a 1x4 picture frame trim detail.
I am mainly concerned about the detail at the head, where it should be flashed. I would like to avoid just cutting out a hole in the panel for the trimmed and flashed unit, then relying mainly on a caulk joint, but maybe properly detailed, this is the simplest option.
Thanks for any help.

Asked By Pete Archer | Feb 9 12

8 Answers

Insulating and protecting an existing brick wall

We are renovating our 100+ year old house room by room. We realize the most common and effective way to insulate is with spray foam (our brick is in excellent condition with no apparent water damage). Our problem is that because we are doing the renovations room by room, spray foam is not the most cost effective way to insulate. I can't seem to find any mention of using rigid insulation in previous articles. Can anyone make suggestions as to how to insulate with rigid (IE are vapour / air barriers required when insulating against the existing brick) and if it will do more harm than good?

Asked By Amy Rancier | Feb 7 12

2 Answers

Kitchen Island Hood problem

Hello,

Not sure if I chose the right category to ask this question. I apologize if it’s misplaced.

I installed a kitchen island hood last summer with 6" exhaust duct straight up through the ceiling into the attic and through the roof in a bangalow. Location - Toronto Canada. I assume it's a zone 6. The duct was inside insulated sleeve.
Now that the winter is here and temperature changes sometimes 10 degrees in one day occasionally water is leaking from out of the hood.

Asked By Andrei Sosnovsky | Jan 25 12

1 Answer

Spray foam insulation in rafters above exisisting blown cellulouse in ceiling

Spray foam insulation within roof rafters is proposed for a large town hall building built in 1883. Location is in Northern part of the mitt in Michigan. Attic space is very, very large. Existing insulation consists of 12" blown in insulation in what I believe to be a non- vented attic space
Heating units and ductwork are in the attic. Plans for the future are to move the furnace to the basement and air condition unit to be in the attic. Considerations are also being discussed for an air exchanger, location not known.

Asked By steve miller | Jan 26 12

10 Answers

I’m working on the design of a two story house in Climate Zone 5

I’m working on the design of a two story house in Climate Zone 5 for a client with a somewhat limited budget. (I’m attaching a dwg showing the schematic section)
There are a number of different conditions in the house.
The main roof over the Second Floor will be a low slope EPDM roof pitched at ¼” per foot. The ceiling of the second floor is located at the bottom of the trusses.
There is a small portion of the house that is one story and covered by a shed roof with a metal standing seam roof that meets a higher wall.

Asked By Linda Gatter | Jan 23 12

1 Answer

I have a 50 year old home with a vented slate roof. The HVAC system is in the attic.

The HVAC system is in the attic.....not efficient. Is it reasonable to spray foam the attic ceiling below the slates, and seal the attic? I'm trying to make the home more comfortable and save money on

I have not got a definitive answer from my builder, and I don't want to regret something down the road.

Asked By Charles Garbett | Jan 22 12

2 Answers

Daylight Wanted

I’m building a new house in Knoxville, TN (zone 4). This is a wet climate and often dark—enough to require artificial lighting during the daytime in our current house. My wife & I are willing to sacrifice some U value for brighter daylighting, because the resulting personal productivity warrants it (we both feel more innervated on dark days). One of the greatest pleasures in life is to see sunlight streaming in through windows, the way interiors are always photographed in those upscale magazines!

Asked By David McNeely | Jan 20 12

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