Community: GBA Pro help

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!

6 Answers

What is the best way to insulate an exterior wall with a shower on the inside & another shower on the outside?

What is the best way to insulate an exterior wall with a walk-in shower on the inside and an outdoor shower against it on the outside?

Asked By lauren drury | Aug 27 13
10 Answers

Advice on insulating sheathing in climate zone 5?

Climate zone 5, western Massachusetts.

I am looking into various exterior wall systems for a two family residence and came upon the Dow Styrofoam SIS insulating sheathing:

In my climate zone with 2 x 6 framing, it is recommended that I use a minimum of 1 1/2" rigid insulation on the building exterior for a thermal break. SIS sheathing only comes in 1/2" and 1" panels but satisfies both sheathing and insulation installation in one application. Is it a bad idea to use this type of sheathing in my climate zone?

Asked By Jon Wyman | Oct 18 11
2 Answers

Partial brick veneer

A question remains regarding insulating the 3/4 brick front (one wythe veneer) of my 1960 ranch in zone 5/6a.

This is a follow up to:

The home is sideways on a narrow portion of the lot. The 3/4 brick front is on the southern exposure, which consists of (from west to east) the family room, a walk-in closet, the kitchen, the main entry door and closet.

Asked By J Heckmann | Sep 4 13
9 Answers

Winter humidity with wood stove

Good day. We are renovating a horribly built ca. 1992 Cape in southern Indiana, Zone 4. During the winter we rely on our Vermont Castings Encore stove for heat, and love it! Since the indoor humidity drops quite low, sometimes to 10%, we do not vent the shower steam through the ERV so as to add some humidity to the house. There are only two persons, my wife and I, so there is not that much steam, and it quickly spreads through the house.

Asked By John Cleveland | Sep 2 13
4 Answers

Correct way to detail crawl space walls

I have a 100 year old Townhome in Alexandria, VA. One of the first things I did when I moved in was to put down a 20mil plastic membrane and a dehumidifier in the dirt crawl space. The membrane terminates a couple of inch from the top of the brick wall and attaches with mechanical fasteners. Fast forward a couple of years and I have been reading that I should also insulate the walls (not the floor joist, which is what I currently have.)

Asked By mark moses | Aug 28 13
3 Answers

Can anyone explain... ?

Can anyone explain when:
1. system capacity(A/C) greater than cooling load
2. system capacity (A/C) smaller than cooling load
3. The effect of on/off control compressor in this two situaltions TQ =) ?

Because the system capacity and cooling load can affect to the room temperature and the I need someone Pro can answer this question..thank you

Asked By HO Y NAM | Aug 28 13
5 Answers

Moisture issue with improperly dense packed ceiling?

Does anyone have any idea what the chances are of a moisture issue(s) occurring in an unvented vaulted ceiling where the cellulose insulation is not in contact with the roof sheathing? The home is located in a cold climate (New York) and there is anywhere between 1 to 3" of air space between the cellulose insulation and the roof sheathing in the lower sections of the vaulted ceiling (as observed through an inspection hole that was drilled in the exterior soffit) while the cellulose in the higher parts of the ceiling appears to completely fill the rafter cavities.

Asked By Bill Sampson | Aug 20 13
6 Answers

Low slope roof and what type of insulation?

I live in Seattle - Marine climate - in a single story home built in 1962. I have a low-slope roof (2/12). The "roof rafters" are 4 x 8 beams at 48" o.c.. The roof decking is 2x6 T&G planks. The entire ceiling is vaulted. In other words, what I see from the inside are the 4 x 8 beams and T&G decking. That's it!

Right now, there is a layer of built up roofing with a mod-bit cover. I'd like to add as much insulation on top of the deck that I can afford and re-roof with TPO or white granular coated mod-bit.

Asked By Randy Navarro | Aug 13 13
1 Answer

Concrete slabs: fiber or mesh for best practice?

My engineer calls for 6x6 mesh placed at mid-slab on supports, and has drawn control joint locations.

Joe Lstiburek recommends fiber-reinforced concrete with a water-to-cement ratio of less than 0.5, and control joints, because he says no one ever puts mesh on chairs anyway.

Can GBA Pros provide best practice guidance? If fiber, is there a standard I can use in my notes?

Also, does the advice apply to exterior hardscape?

Building Zone 4A. Thanks!

Asked By David McNeely | Aug 15 13
4 Answers

Land has only 1 1/2 feet of dirt on top of solid rock -- so what about septic?

I bought land which is zoned residential without doing a perc test. The dirt is at most 1 1/2 feet deep on top of solid rock. I could do a compost toilet, but I was told I would still need a septic tank to handle the gray water. What do I do?

I don't know what you want for more explanation.

Asked By juanita haddad | Aug 11 13
Register for a free account and join the conversation

Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!