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8 Answers

Has anyone ever heard of homeowner insurance canceling your policy due to bees under your siding?

We bought our house 2 years ago in Louisiana and last year, a swarm of honeybees from a neighboring beekeeper choose our home and made colonies. We've had 2 professionals come look and they say it's likely we have at least 3 colonies based on the size of activity and 3 different entry points. So the suggestion was made to contact our insurance company to see if we could get help removing bees and honey and repairing siding that would need to be removed,which is practically the entire back and side of our home.

Asked By Vinysgirl | Jun 9 17
2 Answers

Turning a traditional bathroom into a wet room.

Anyone have suggestions on how to waterproof the entire floor to drain properly....my space is limited and my drain pitch is maxed......fyi this is in the basement.

Thank you in advance

Asked By Ogmrfixit | Jun 3 17
13 Answers

Floor above unconditioned space

Hello
Firstly thanks for the feedback on my previous roof assembly post. This question relates to the floor of the conditioned area (ceiling of a garage/carport). Thankfully no ducts, just wires and plumbing in a few locations.
By way of background, its climate 4C (near Vancouver, Canada) and a small building used as a holiday home, not fully occupied in Winter. The occupied conditioned space will sit above both an unconditioned garage and cantilevered over a carport.
Designers build up from conditioned side down:
- ¾ OSB T&G
- Poly sheet
- 9.5” I Joists on 16” centers

Asked By Quinn Sievewright | Mar 29 17
6 Answers

How do I get Comcast through my envelope prior to blower door test?

In anticipation of a blower door test, water, sewer, electricity, and gas were run to house with one phone call each. Can anyone suggest a way to convince Comcast to provide a stub-out to new construction with studs not yet covered?

Three weeks and half a dozen phone calls (each one requiring a half hour just to get to someone who could look at the job ticket) I usually get: “T.V. has to be ready to hook up before we can install service.” Why, I ask, can you not bring the cable to a utility box and test the signal there? Yesterday I learned this:

Asked By David McNeely | May 27 17
3 Answers

Do we need housewrap?

Building a new home in Hanover NH. Advantech sheathing will be taped. Then 2 1/2 inches of XPS will then be applied and taped. Then firing strips, then Hardy siding.

Initial plan was to place house wrap on outside of of XPS. Our builder says that perhaps house wrap is not necessary, given the tape on sheathing then again on XPS, but he is willing to add it if we prefer.

Is there any advantage to house wrap with this construction method?

Asked By Frank Torti | May 21 17
2 Answers

Sharing the radon stack

I have a 4" PVC stack going from below the slab and through the roof to provide passive ventilation of radon from below the slab (potential radon—not yet measured). Is there any reason I can't tie into it with the bathroom ventilation duct? I like minimizing roof penetrations.

The duct would tie to a Y that points upward; between that, the draft created by the stack itself, and the damper on the fan, I see no risk of ozone entering the house. Any problems?

Thanks.

Asked By David McNeely | May 3 17
17 Answers

Addressing the ping pong issue

Zone 4A. Hip roof necessitates unventilated attic, therefore spray foam insulation against the bottom of the roof deck.

Joe Lstiburek is saying that the source of humidity in this kind of assembly is from the interior, and he describes a “ping pong effect” that results in moisture accumulating at the ridge. His solution is to use closed cell foam or condition the attic (below Climate Zone 5).

Would it not work to spray a layer of cc foam against the sheathing, followed by open cell foam to make up the required insulation value?

Asked By David McNeely | May 2 17
11 Answers

Building a new home in Climate Zone 5 — Need insulation help

We are building a new home in zone 5 (Michigan) and I would like your recommendations on how you would insulate the walls and roof/attic space.

The home is 3500 sqft with 2750 on the main floor and 750 upstairs. The main living space (kitchen, dinning, living room) is open concept with a cathedral ceiling. Other areas have a more traditional attic space.

The basement will be unfinished and we will use 2" rigid foam under the slab and on the walls. (unless you tell me differently)

Walls are 2x6 construction.

Asked By NKoenig | Mar 26 17
3 Answers

Fiberglass-backed polyiso got wet, now moldy on surface: to keep or not to keep? Remediation?

A few months ago I chatted back an forth with Mr. Martin Holladay about my project... I have progressed on it since then, but have ran into an unforeseen problem. Let me bring you up to speed:

I am building an apartment underneath a lean-to roof coming off of a post-frame shop building in climate 3. I purchased some used poly-iso foam boards to use as insulation on the underside of the existing metal roof. At this time I have reached this point (Layers shown from top to bottom):

Metal roof
2x4 purlins (with subsequent 1.5" air gap)

Asked By John Peeper | Apr 23 17
7 Answers

2/3 1/3 insulation rule in roof

Old build with flat wood deck on 2x13s. 4 inches Batt in joist space.(R12) 2 inch air space above batt insulation under wood deck No external vents into air space Adding polyiso on top of deck R 28. Before adding the polyiso can/should we put a separator sheet or vapour barrier on top of the wood as there is more than 2/3 the insulating value above the deck There is a poly vb above the drywall ceiling below e joists.

Asked By UBSC | Apr 19 17
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