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5 Answers

Will a Fujitsu RLS3H Ductless Mini Split Heat Pump be enough?

I have been struggling about what type of heating system to put in our home. Ever since I read about the Fujitsu and its 33 Seer efficient system, I have wanted to install 2 in our home, one up and one down. Our home was built originally as a mountain summer cabin with baseboard heating and no duct work. It is in Western North Carolina, elevation 3600 feet.

The first floor is a finished basement made of 8 inch concrete block built on a poured concrete slab foundation that is semi earth-beamed on 2 sides with natural stone veneer on the above ground walls that was quarried locally.

Asked By darejobachjo | Mar 11 17
2 Answers

Hardie Wrap: Over sheathing or foam board?

The question is :Does it matter where the Hardie Wrap is placed? Our builder would prefer to place it over the Avantech.

1. 5/8” sheetrock
2. “smart” vapor retarder (+/-)
3. Roxul R-23 batts
4. Avantech sheathing (taped)
5. 2 1/2” of type X XPS foam (taped). Foamular F250 product is available in 2 1/2 (R=12.5)”.
6. Hardie wrap or equivalent.
7. 3/4" strapping (+/- Coravent SV5 product on top and bottom of walls and windows)
8. Hardie clapboard siding

Asked By Frank Torti | Mar 10 17
1 Answer

Add insulated metal faced panels to the exterior walls of a curling rink arena.

Existing 25 yr old building walls are uninsulated painted concrete block without a vapour barrier. Structure is a pre-Eng steel frame with insulated metal roof.
Building located near Toronto Canada.
Building is maintained close to 40f year round.
Owners have installed new dehumidification equipment and now want to upgrade the walls insulation and seal air infiltration.
The preference would be to use metal faced insulated panels of 5" thickness providing an R of 20.

Asked By user-6788543 | Mar 9 17
6 Answers

New homeowner--question on high cold weather humidity levels and HRV

Good morning,

I'm a new homeowner who just relocated from South Korea to Alaska (military move).

I have a 4 year old house (build in 2012) that's approximately 2600 sq-ft and there are two adults and three children living in the house.

The house has a Lifebreath 200 MAX HRV with what I believe is installed as a partially dedicated system. There are these air inlets in various rooms in the house, such as the bathrooms, kitchen, laundry room, etc.

It has been extremely cold out lately, with highs being between 7-10 degrees F.

Asked By jtludwig | Mar 5 17
1 Answer

Weeping Siding

My family and I purchased a house last year in southern Maine. Over the past couple of weeks, we've had some significant snowfall followed by warmer than usual temperatures. I recently noticed that across the back of the house there are a couple spots where a rust-colored water is weeping out from beneath 5 to 6 courses of wooden clapboard siding close to where the exterior wall meets the roof. I also notice some staining along the soffit vent (photo attached).

Asked By Todd Bridgeo | Feb 24 17
3 Answers

Building a house in Zone 6

Building a house in zone 6. Framing nearly complete. Too cold to roof now with asphalt shingles, but rain protection needed. Roofer asked builder if he should extend the "ice shield" which I understand is vapor impermeable, over the whole roof, or cover with ?

Issue relates to the potential trapping of moisture in the sheathing if two impermeable membranes are used.

Asked By Frank Torti | Feb 21 17
11 Answers

Cracking slab

I had a basement slab poured in May, and it recently cracked in several locations. I am upset that the cracking did not follow control joints. The slab is about 5" thick, and I was aggravated to find that the control joints are only 1/2" deep. From everything I can find, 25% of slab depth is standard. Do I have a leg to stand on in asking the contractor to recut joints to appropriate depth and repair cracks? Slab is 4k psi with rebar on 2' centers poured over poly, 2" XPS, and ~9" crushed stone, in case it is relevant. Thanks for any input.

Asked By Jim Tyler | Feb 20 17
2 Answers

Filling a sunken floor and laying Tile.

! have a sunken living room floor and intend to raise it to the level of adjoining rooms. The floor has porcelain tile on it, is not cracked and has been in place 10 years. The present depth is 4 3/4" below adjoining rooms. The present plan is to raise the floor with 2x4's, plywood, hardboard or equivalent and use porcelain tile to finish it off. Is it feasible to leave the existing tile and build up over it?

Asked By Sammie Hodges | Feb 20 17
10 Answers

Metal standing-seam hot roof

Hi I'm building a new home for our family and wanted to run our roof design by you as my concern is moisture/ condensation. Essentially we have 2x12 members on a low-sloped 2 5/8" over 12 large 3500 square foot roof. I'm planning on insulating with 7" of closed cell (More if recommended) and no vapor barrier because of closed cell not needing it. The roof deck will be covered with Ice and Water HT and then have a standing seam metal roof installed on top of the ice and water. We are located in Massachusetts. One debate is do i use CDX , OSB Standard or advantech.

Asked By Michael Carreiro | Feb 12 17
4 Answers

Insulation recomendations?

Hi our new house is being built with 2x6 walls with exterior CDX plywood with Enviro Dri on the exterior. I'm debating open cell in the wall cavities vs dense pack cellulose. Any recommendations on either for both comfort and long term pay back. Is there any other options i should consider? Thanks for your help

Asked By Michael Carreiro | Feb 13 17
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