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3 Answers

Multiple conduits from house to garage (gas, electric, low voltage) : is there a separation rule?

I am pouring my frost walls tomorrow (London, Ontario), and I will be adding an 8" sleeve 3' down in both walls so I can run (3) separate 2.5" conduits from the house to the garage (about 20' between house and garage). Things I may be running through the conduits:

1 Natural gas
2 Electrical (to feed a 100 amp garage panel)
3 3/4" cold water pex line (to feed garage taps and utility sinks)
4 1/2" pex hot water line (to feed the utility sink)
5 (2) 1/2" pex lines (supply and return) to supply the in slab heat from the main water heater

Asked By Mai Tai | Aug 30 17
9 Answers

Electricians: Are copper main water lines still used for the main house ground?

I will be running my main water line under the footing very soon, and although I have selected Pexa for the main 550' run, I still have the option to connect it to a 12' piece of 1 1/2" copper pipe to make the through slab section/main ( I am just running a 3" abs pipe under the footing right now to allow connections at a later time)

Asked By Mai Tai | Aug 22 17
22 Answers

3/12 pitch roof insulation

Hi all.
I sent a question and got a reply on a 2/12 pitch roof.

I have an architect working on my plans now. It is a single-slope roof at the widest part (of 32 or so feet).

I originally was going with 3/12 pitch, but he thought 2/12 would be a lower roof at the tall end, so I said fine!

Now, looking at the problems with 2/12, I asked to go back to the 3/12 pitch. So: If I go 3/12, would I (or should I) use R-60 fiberglass? It will have 24 in. parallel trusses.

Would I still need a cupola? (Zone 6, lower Michigan.)

This is TMI for my small brain...

Thanks,
Bob

Asked By Robertsoave | Aug 19 17
5 Answers

How would homeowners find a truly green contractor?

Where or how would a homeowner be able to find a licensed contractor knowledgeable in the practices and topics discussed on this site, or even green building and healthier building materials in general? Had hoped to be moved in before the holidays and I'm told there is roughly only one month or less of work remaining to be done... but I can't even find a contractor or subcontractors to do it. Maybe I'm searching in all the wrong places? Any advice or help would be immensely appreciated.

Asked By Natasha Reeves | Aug 21 17
6 Answers

Ridge vents: are they susceptible to snow drifts and driving rain?

My current design incorporates ridge vents with simple gable roofs (both house and garage).

It seemed to be both the aesthetic and performance choice. I will be using standing seam steel roofing, which seems to have a very water tight ridge vent design.

Asked By Mai Tai | Aug 17 17
14 Answers

AC register condensation: Not enough ridge for adequate ridge ventilation?

I'm living in the Houston area (zone 2) and noticed water leaking from some AC registers yesterday. The home is 9 years old, 300 sq ft.

The flexible ductwork is insulated.
The register boots are insulated, and the insulation has a lot of mold. (pic attached)
There is significant water in the attic on the blown in insulation around the duct boots: not damp, really wet.
I do not think the register boots are leaking, but I guess they could have small leaks.

Asked By Mark McFarlane | Aug 14 17
8 Answers

550' main water line to house : help me choose a suitable pipe

My driveway is 550' long, and the water meter is at the road. So far I have determined I should be happy with a 1.5" ID pipe, for the flow I am considering. I was all set to pull the trigger on HDPE pipe (NSF rated, 200 PSI), until I read some articles that claim this type of pipe becomes brittle with time when exposed to water disinfectants (read chlorine, chloramine, chlorine dioxide etc.), anything the utility puts in the the great lakes water to make it "safe".

So back to the drawing board. The options:

HDPE CTS 200 PSI pipe

Asked By Mai Tai | Aug 10 17
9 Answers

Floor truss spacing and sub-floor options for a "stiff" floor : opinions?

I am currently building a slab on grade home, with 24" deep open web floor trusses (24" selected with the intent of having (2) 20x21" house long chases to run low velocity HVAC ducts, supply and return and avoid bulkheads).

My architect, who is admittedly old school/conservative, specified spacing at 16" OC, with 3/4" ply sub-floor. The house is 30' wide, and the joists are basically designed to take this full span. However, I have a mid width supporting wall/beam in the design, which basically cuts the span in half (max span from wall to exterior wall is 17').

Asked By Mai Tai | Aug 5 17
7 Answers

Vapor drive and porcelain tile exterior walls

The nice thing about building a house on one's own is that the building gives you feedback before the finishing touches lock things in. One such lesson for me is summertime vapor drive. I have had Durock CBUs installed over vertical 1x3 furring for some time now with plans to install veneer stone later. The rainscreen gap is ventilated below and above and the insulation behind is closed cell spray foam, so no moisture drives into the house.

Asked By Edward Mallett | Jul 24 17
2 Answers

What is the best way to treat the main level floor on a coastal home elevated on pilings?

I have a client who has a bay front home on the eastern shore of Virginia that is built on pilings that put the bottom of the main level framing about 10' off the ground. The majority of this space has been enclosed for parking and storage and houses the base of an elevator shaft. There are codes dictating the construction of these in-fill spaces limiting their connectivity to the structural elements of the elevated house. The concept is that storm surge or shore erosion damage would be isolated to this space.

Asked By Mike Labesky | Jul 26 17
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