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3 Answers

Questions about humidity control in unconditioned space

Two locations: Zone 3A, coastal N.C. (fishing cabins converted to a non-profit retreat facility—insulated and heated, but no AC); and Deccan Plateau in central India —wet, continuously humid 3-month monsoon and scorching hot & dry 4-month summer (HVAC nonexistent).

Primary question: how can mold and mildew issues be prevented and/or managed in an unconditioned space?

Asked By David McNeely | Oct 5 16
1 Answer

Crawl space insulation climate zone 6B, 7000 feet elevation, low humidity.

I have a question regarding an existing home in climate zone 6B located about 7000 feet in elevation?

Asked By Gary Macdonald | Oct 6 16
1 Answer

Rebuilding old passive hot air solar panels

I am trying to rebuild a passive hot air solar panel manufactured by Great Western Solar company (no longer in business under that name). The box is aluminium with lascalite fiberglass for the transparent cover. Because the cover, angle aluminum and fibeerglass sheet seems to be glued down and then riveted, for the life of me I can not get it off. So, my idea was to cut out the lascalite sheeting and install a new type of plastic cover and overlay new angle aluminium over the top of the old.

Asked By Tom Gordy | Oct 5 16
3 Answers

When installing an HRV, can I replace the existing air makeup duct with a tandem duct and plumb my fresh air into the makeup?

It looks to me like the air makeup duct on my furnace could be replaced with the new air in from my HRV. Will this constant flow from the HRV upset the pressure balance in the furnace?

Asked By Steve Nelson | Oct 2 16
7 Answers

Ceiling vapor barrier for indoor pool room

Hi GBA,

We are in the process of designing an indoor pool building based off of the general concepts in Dr. Joe Lstiburek's article "In the Deep End" (https://buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-055-in-the-deep-end), however, mine is a residential building with wood frame construction and an asphalt shingle roof with wood trusses. I'm in Zone 4 (Maryland).

Asked By Dan Theman | Oct 1 16
2 Answers

Can I install 3/8" T-1-11 clear siding over existing 5/8" T-1-11 siding to create a board and batten look?

My house is currently sheathed in 5/8" T-1-11 siding. I'd like to add another layer of 3/8" clear (no grooves) T-1-11 siding over that and then add 2" battens to create a board and batten siding look. Is this a good idea or a recipe for disaster? I live in Maui on the dry side of the island and get a lot of sun on the south and west sides of my house.

Thanks and Aloha,
Bruce

Asked By Bruce Lowrey | Sep 29 16
41 Answers

Ice damming — Low-slope roof — Resolvable or hopeless?

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I own an older home in Ontario Canada that may have been built between the 1920s to 1950s. It originally had knob & tube wiring.

Each winter I have to deal with ice damming along 2 sides of the roof, no where else. The areas in question are a Low-Slope roof (3/12 pitch, east & west side of the ridge) and a Cathedral style roof (8/12 pitch -- inside the home there is a sloping ceiling that is covered by drywall). See a photo of the home: http://imgur.com/sXUzfzG.

Asked By Jake Rabe | Aug 19 16
5 Answers

Insulating underneath wood shingles underneath asphalt shingles

Hello!

I've done my research and read quite a few relevant posts and articles here, but I couldn't find an exact match for my situation.

Legend has it that my home was built in 1876 in Philadelphia and moved here to Harrisburg via barge sometime after that. I'm in Climate Zone 5.

My wife and I are looking to build an insulated cathedral ceiling. Yes, I've read the wonderful GBA article :)

Asked By Drew Buglione | Sep 20 16
6 Answers

Insulating a cathedral ceiling with self-adhesive roofing membrane installed

We are building a 640 sq ft cabin in CZ6. At the last minute we found a metal roof rated for down to a 1:12 pitch and made the change to a 2:12 pitch.

With that change to a flatter pitch came a recommendation from the roofing supplier to cover the roof sheathing with a self adhesive "Ice and Water Shield" type product.

So our roof (all complete) from outside to in:

24 gauge metal roof.

Asked By Chris Harper | Sep 22 16
7 Answers

Flat roof assembly question

I am replacing the roof on a brick masonry building in NYC within the 5 borough. The building was built in 1910/11. It is a flat roof, about 40 ft long and 25ft. wide. The previous roof (a tar and gravel system) failed and my brother and I removed it, and replaced the damaged roof deck. (a mixture of plywood replaced probably 30-40 yrs ago, and the original t&g boards) with 3/4 OSB. Toward the front 10 foot or so of the building the t&g boards were dry and strong so we left them in place. A little bit of repair to the cornice "box" was necessary.

Asked By Jacob Turetsky | Sep 22 16
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