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2 Answers

Thanks for any suggesWhat is a good old bathroom exterior wall progression method (1947 home in Edmonton, Alberta) ?

From outside to inside: cedar siding, then 2X6 Douglas Fir planks, 12" studs.

What would be a good insulation choice?

What would be a good baker board choice?

What would be a good drywall choice?

Should a vapor barrier be used?

Will also be installing a bathroom fan- horizontal exhausting through exterior wall due to possible vermiculite/asbestos in attic. What would be the specs for this? It is difficult to find information for this unusual location.

Asked By Lisa MArtin | Apr 15 14
59 Answers

I wonder why folks fear to use their real names?
Did you learn this at another forum?

Interested Onlooker (for instance)
I have read many,many good comments by you and others.
Why do you fear to use your name?

What is the WORST that could happen?

I have never heard of anything "bad" happening to anyone for posting their name.
I don't get it.

Are you afraid that Robert or Steve plan to "poke you in the eye"?
(smiley face)

Or Perhaps you will explode?

I think there is something unfriendly about not sharing your name.

Asked By John Brooks | Nov 20 10
3 Answers

Hey guys, what are your experiences with putting a 100 psi polystyrene under a footing to help eliminate as much thermal bridging as possible? This is for a residential setting. It would be in the center of the house the load of the first and second floor and possibly the roof would be on it.
Can anyone recommend a engineer that may have experience in this?
Thanks.

Asked By Kirk Nygren | Apr 16 14
9 Answers

I am using ICFs to form a foundation stemwall and am pondering different ways to form a 16" x 8" footer that doesn't require a ship load of 2 x 8 or 2 x 10. I can't form it using the trench walls because county code requires 38" w x 12" deep compacted structural fill below the footer for my soil type. My thought is to use ripped plywood with some kind of wire or snap tie and 2x4 strongback with some fill holding the bottom in. If using plywood, what is a good sealer to use for saving and further ripping the plywood to use as furring strips for siding? Any cool cheap ways to form footers?

Asked By Chuck Jensen | Apr 15 14
14 Answers

Hi,

Asked By Evan Gentler | Apr 13 14
2 Answers

Hey everybody,
I find Martin's article A New Way to Duct HRVs pretty fascinating. It seems pretty sensible for a well sealed/insulated home, however the postscript from Dr. Straube says that 10cfm of conditioned air wouldn't help with regulating the temperature in a closed off bedroom. I guess that makes sense at that rate.

Asked By Michael McNulty | Apr 14 14
1 Answer

Does anyone know of any links to energy efficient duplex house plans? Preferably something compatible with passive house or similar low-energy paradigm... thanks in advance!
p.s. Martin posted a link to a similar question of mine but they were all SFD plans..

Asked By erik olofsson | Apr 14 14
3 Answers

Hi;
Saw this site form Dan Houlihan of HeatingHelp.
I have a 1917 home in Detroit, Mich that I am renovating. It has a American Thatch" or "Smurf" cedar shingle roof with an open stringer deck underneath. These must be vented on the underside to allow the shingles to dry. Currently there is no insulation. The floor that the roof encloses is livable space, but I will demo all of the plaster walls for insulation access. I have 8" rafters

Asked By Mark Reynolds | Apr 10 14
6 Answers

It sounds like the makeup vents are making noise (according to my wife). Could this be due to a dirty filter starving the unit of air? Filter is 5 months old. Thank you

Asked By Kenneth Clement | Apr 9 14
3 Answers

Dear GBA readers,
I'm starting the process of finding a roofer who can add up to 6 inches of insulation on top of the roof. I have an unvented cathedral ceiling in the attic, with rafters filled with mineral wool. I would like to get a clearer picture of what is involved before describing my needs to prospective contractors.

Asked By Hari Kamboji | Apr 10 14
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