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4 Answers

Hello, I really appreciate this website.

I understand that powered attic ventilators have a lot of problems. But my contractor is suggesting adding one to support a whole-house fan, due to the limited attic ventilation. (I do have some passive ventilation but not quite enough, and the gables are maxed out because it's a flat roof.)

So as long as I always run both fans at the same time, and as long as the cfm of the whole house fan exceeds the cfm of the attic fan, is there still going to be a problem?

Thanks!

Asked By Robert Shelton | Jul 25 14
3 Answers

(Examples of what I am referring to can be seen at: http://vastern.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Splayed-cladding-detail.jpg AND http://www.bartonqualitytimber.co.uk/images/categories/chestnut%20claddi... )

I am not terribly conceded about the cedar: if it is stained all 6 sides with two coats and placed on black painted strapping, then it should handle the elements reasonably well. My main concern is what the substrate behind it should be.

Asked By Burke Stoller | Jul 18 14
3 Answers

As a long time visitor and few years member, I have tried to absorb the lessons, opinions, science and conjecture presented here. However, I now find myself confronted with conflicting theory regarding unvented roof profiles.

For my own project, (high altitude, dry, -10 to 90 F) I have regarded the "top" layer of sheathing in an unvented assembly to be essentially in dead space - not exchanging air or moisture - the underside in contact or glued to impermeable insulation, the top side sealed off from all contact with the locally required ice and water shield over the entire roof.

Asked By Roger Berry | Jul 24 14
5 Answers

We are in the planning phase of a passive house near Louisville, Ky. The site is a South facing hill with a great view of fields, trees and a creek. We plan on a walkout basement under a 2300 square foot home. I am concerned about moisture through the wall of the basement. Some precast concrete wall providers guarantee water tight walls with insulation on the inside. If they are used what precautions should be taken relative to the floors and vapor pressure to the inside?

Asked By Paul Nicholls | Jul 22 14
14 Answers

I put the cart before the horse, and selected the house depicted below to build in the Adirondacks, NY. After working out the design details inside the house, I moved to the outside. I questioned the building designer about the low profile 3/12 pitch roof and how it is vented on the high edge, and the reply was "this home uses water impenetrable closed cell urethane insulation, sprayed in to fill the cavity from below prior to drywalling, and it therefore unvented.

Asked By Don Moore | Jul 23 14
5 Answers

I am about to start framing up walls for my woodshop. The existing slab slopes from back to front a total of about 4" over the length of 28'-0"....yes, 4". The concrete crew did a terrible job. I need some advise on the best/most efficient way of dealing with this slope in the slab when framing the walls. I feel a tight connection with a PT sill plate to the slab is crucial. So, I could:
1) Frame walls square on ground and then deal with space between PT seal plate and bottom plate of wall with large shims. Doing this though, I worry about a good connection to the sill plate.

Asked By Zane Morgan | Jul 23 14
4 Answers

Has anyone recently imported high performance windows to Canada? I'm currently looking at both Canadian and European windows for a house in southern Ontario and would be very interested to hear about any experiences, good or bad, that the GBA community has had.

On a side note, the Canadian market for high performance building products seems so small that finding local dealers for many products seems tough. Other than ordering from Small Planet Workshop or Four Seven Five, are there any good sources out there?

Asked By Graham Fisher | Jul 22 14
1 Answer

I am having a new outside air conditioner and a new 2 stage gas furnace put in. My mobile home is from about 1977. It has 1440 sq. ft., floor (out flow vents) & ceiling in flow vents. The present duct work is inaccessible. There is an old 4 ton elec. A/C unit and an old - maybe 100,00 BTU gas furnace. Neither one is efficient. My place is probably not very air tight Don't know about the insulation. I think I live in zone 3C (about 2+ hours N.

Asked By JOANN CORTINA | Jul 22 14
1 Answer

Starting a new build (1 1/2 basement walkout), all 2x6 exterior walls w/ brick veneer in GA, CZ 3. Above grade, would like to do spray foam in 2x6 walls, 1/2" or 1" of rigid foam board on the exterior, and a 1" air gap. Will this require a housewrap or can I do without the rigid foam and go with a housewrap? Also, any recommendations about insulation strategies for the finished basement. Thanks!

Asked By David Myles | Jul 22 14
2 Answers

We had our basement encapsulated in the fall last year and made it through winter no issues. They used a thick mil high quality (apparently) vapor barrier and then sprayed /fogged with mold preventative. I don't think there is any more mold - smell is not musty really and I don't get a mold allergy reaction.

Asked By jeff weikert | Jul 22 14
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