Community: General questions

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!

5 Answers

Im in Albuquerque, NM, zone 4b I believe.

I'm in the process of turning a garage into bedrooms, I want to install rigid foam on the concrete floor and then frame over it to bring the floor level with the rest of the house. Should I place a plastic barrier before the foam, is it needed? Is there a specific tape needed to tape the joints? Should the foam be glued or nailed to the concrete or just float?

Any advice is greatly appreciated, thank you.

Asked By Adam Dooley | Aug 27 12
5 Answers

Im in Albuquerque, NM, zone 4b I believe.

I'm in the process of turning a garage into bedrooms, I want to install rigid foam on the concrete floor and then frame over it to bring the floor level with the rest of the house. Should I place a plastic barrier before the foam, is it needed? Is there a specific tape needed to tape the joints? Should the foam be glued or nailed to the concrete or just float?

Any advice is greatly appreciated, thank you.

Asked By Adam Dooley | Aug 27 12
8 Answers

Because my existing brick chimney does not meet the zero-zero clearance insurance specs for Canada, and hasn’t been used for a decade, I am planning on placing an insulated chimney-pipe in for my new wood stove. Unfortunately, a 6″ insulated pipe may not fit the existing chimney, and I have been advised to go with a 5.5″ pipe to ensure it fits.

Might there be any worry of draft (draw) problems with a 5.5″ pipe if my new stove collar (exhaust) is 7″, and my chimney height is 25feet with good outside clearance?

Grateful for advise,

Mike

Asked By mike price | Jul 30 12
22 Answers

We've got an unfinished, but nice basement in our 1940s cape just outside of Boston. There's an oil furnace, gas water heater, and gas dryer running down there. There's also one heat duct and a dehumidifier. I've had the door to the basement removed since we purchased the home in the spring and have liked it that way. My wife is telling me to put it back on because it's going to cause our heating bills to be greatly higher than they would be if it were reinstalled. There is no insulation between the floors.

Is she right again?

Asked By stephen edge | Aug 20 12
4 Answers

I need to meet code (R38- zone 5- on a cathedral ceiling) and would like to do this as cheaply as possible. The exterior of my roof assembly looks like: 3/4 ply, ice and water shield, asphalt shingles. The proposed interior would look like: 1 inch vent (ripped 1x1 w/ 1/4 ply), roxul (r 15), and 3 1/2 inches polyiso rigid insulation. The 3 inches of polyiso would be cut to fit in between rafters while the other 1/2 inch would go over the strapping to give me my thermal break as well as vapor barrier.

Asked By derck sturgeon | Aug 25 12
4 Answers

I'm looking to add water filtration to my home, and am trying to figure out whether a whole house water filter, or individual point of entry water filters (ie, at the sink) would be better. It might be easier to just have the one whole house filter installed, but I am wondering if I will ultimately end up filtering a lot of water that doesn't need to be filtered, as opposed to just putting filters at the sinks were water is actually used for drinking, brushing teeth, etc.

Asked By Brian Jackson | Aug 19 12
4 Answers

my client wants her standing seam roof to be dark brown. will this, at least partly, sabotage my building's energy efficiency? or is it a non-factor...

Asked By erik olofsson | Aug 23 12
5 Answers

So, you guys have been a big help so far. I have another question, spurred by what looks like a good deal on craigslist for new polyiso insulation.

The catch is that this insulation has OSB on one side and paper on the other. I am interested in putting it up within my catherdral ceiling rafters and under the rafters.

How bad would this be to put up? If it is not good, are their any cheap workarounds? The price is half the foil faced at the big box store.

There would be a 1" space between the insulation and the roof, but it technically isn't vented (1950s 1.5 story ranch).

Asked By NIkki Horz | Aug 20 12
2 Answers

How can i edit my 'signature' so that it gives all my zone info?

Asked By erik olofsson | Aug 23 12
8 Answers

we are building a small 600 sq' house in valemount, b.c.. we are planning to make it airtight via the plywood sheathing. should we use an hrv or erv or exhaust-only with passive air inlets? anyone care to recommend a cost-efficient manufacturer? also, interested in a detail of a ground loop for the intake air...thanks
other site info: 800 metre elevation, 5623 HDD

Asked By erik olofsson | Aug 13 12
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!