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2 Answers

What width should soffit overhangs be in order to use oreintation specific glazing?

What is the minimum industry standard for the width of soffit overhangs in order to take advantage of orientation specific glazing for both triple pane windows and slider/patio doors located on the south side of a house? Although I want to take advantage of passive solar heating, I do not wnat the house to be overheated in the summertime. I would like the soffit overhangs to provide adequate shading during the summer here in Connecticut.

Asked By JOSEPH POLAND | Jan 31 13
2 Answers

Do you have any examples of framing out a door to accommodate a fan for wood stove heat distribution?

I am replacing an interior door for a bedroom next to our living room (where the stove is located). We'd like to keep the door closed at night but provide wood heat to that room. The 83" ceiling does not really allow for a transom - The door header is right up to the ceiling. I thought of framing out a section of adjacent wall or side trim to fit a small door fan to blow air into the bedroom and the space under the door would allow cool air back to the living room? Any other ideas?

Asked By Scott Maslansky | Jan 31 13
3 Answers

Leaking ceiling when weather shifts from cold to warm

I have a small addition attached to my house, 10 x 15, with the ceiling height to the ridge of 12 ft.
It is approx. a 6 pitch with a Cobra raised ridge vent. It has ice and water and 30-lb. felt with 50 yr Owens Corning architectural shingles that were installed 3 yrs ago.

The roof seems to be alright and I believe the problem is inside (moisture leak due to humidity).

No leaks through hurricane Sandy or rainstorms throughout the summer. Only leaks when it goes from extreme cold to mid 40s and low 50s.

Asked By Tim Smith | Jan 31 13
6 Answers

Accu Vent Baffle Installation Detail Questions

I’m installing Accu-Vent baffles in a new construction home and have a few questions concerning installation details. Background: Climate Zone 4A, 8” raised heel trusses, 4.5:12 pitch roof with flat ceilings (although a small portion of the house has a 2:12 vaulted ceiling), R-60 cellulose on the ceiling. I am foaming the edges of the Accu-Vent to the trusses to minimize any air leakage up to the roof sheathing.

Asked By David Baca | Jan 30 13
3 Answers

Atticat expanding blown-in insulation

we are considering using blown fibreglass for the attic insulation in our r2000 project. the small village where our project is located has tje atticat system. another town 1.5 hours away has the blown cellulose system. basically, for the price of 24" deep cellulose we could get 36" of fibreglass. from what i have read on the gba, i would guess the majority of the gba folk prefer cellulose over fibreglass. i'm tempted to go with the fibreglass...opinions? is 36" too thick for fibreglass?...thanks again! p.s., the attic floor is 5/8" t+g osb and is flat.

Asked By erik olofsson | Jan 28 13
1 Answer

Marc Rosenbaum will offer another online course

Marc Rosenbaum will offer his 10-week online course on Net Zero Energy Homes again, beginning on March 11.

Marc sent me an e-mail:

"The inaugural Zero Net Energy Homes online course had 50 students and was a great learning experience! We’re doing it again starting March 11th.

Asked By Martin Holladay | Jan 29 13
0 Answers

Building Cost Estimator

Here is a free, easy-to-use, house building cost estimator. Asks a series of questions about size, material, finish, location, etc, then gives a breakdown of costs for each house component, for material, labor, equipment, and total.


Here's an sample result for a small simple house. The formatting is messed up, but you get the idea.

I would be curious if any professional contractors on this forum can vouch for whether it is roughly accurate or not?


Asked By Jack Woolfe | Jan 29 13
3 Answers

Insulating a stepped foundation from the interior

I have a basement room that I'm planning to insulate. It's new 2x6 construction but the foundation is 15 years old. It's in zone 6. It's stepped with the west wall being half 8ft and half 4 ft of poured concrete, a south wall being 2ft and an east wall being a 1/2 ft off the floor. I insulated the exterior of west wall with 2in of XPS from the outside while digging it out for a drain. That wall had been getting wet, but is now very dry due to the drain work. I'll also be building a wall to seperate the garage from the room and insulating above the garage.

Asked By stephen edge | Jan 28 13
3 Answers

Protecting crawl space slab foam

We have a 4' crawl space that has eps foam+vapour retarder for a 'slab.' what are some cost-efficient options for protecting the foam and poly? i imagine the homeowner will want to use the space for some storage. p.s., concrete is not an option....thanks again, gba!

Asked By erik olofsson | Jan 28 13
4 Answers

Foam sheathing

My whole house has been sheathed with OSB. My builder will be applying housewrap to this next week. I will have "innie" type windows installed as well. He will also be covering the housewrap and OSB with a layer of foam board. Since the housewrap is under the foam, is it necessary that he tape all foamboard seams? I would assume since the housewrap is under the foam, this would not be necessary?

Asked By Aron Robinson | Jan 26 13
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