Community: General questions

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!


2 Answers

Insulation and condensation

I am curious about the consequences of not insulating a block or concrete wall in a conditioned space, particularly, but not exclusive of a basement. I know that a typical uninsulated wood framed wall will not have condensation/mold/rot problems because the cavity will stay warm and dry itself out, but is that also true of a masonry type situation, if I were to frame against it and drywall it. My gut tells me that the warm air will condense against the cold wall and cause problems, but then it doesn't seem to in a wood wall. Am I missing something?

Asked By patrick killelea | Sep 19 13
5 Answers

Cold air return in basement?

I have a Venmar AVS Constructo 1.5 Heat Recovery unit installed in the basement of my condo. This was already installed when I moved in. I am the first occupant of this condo. There are vents installed on the main floor at ceiling level in the kitchen and in the two bathrooms. There are two cold air returns on the main level. There are heat registers installed in the ceilings of the three rooms in the basement (finished lower level), but no cold air return register on that level.

Asked By Karen Wallis | Sep 18 13
1 Answer

Bath fan location

is it advisable or best practice to install the bath fan directly above a walk-in shower or bath tub? often you see them directly above the water closet but in terms of removing moisture from the bath or shower, wouldn't it be better served as close as possible..? thanks

Asked By erik olofsson | Sep 18 13
1 Answer

A presentation on deep-energy retrofits in Portland, Maine

On Friday, September 27, 2013 there will be a presentation titled "Deep Energy Retrofit in the Northeast," from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. at Rines Auditorium, Portland Public Library, Portland, Maine. (The Portland Public Library is at Monument Square in Portland.)

The list of speakers includes Paul Eldrenkamp of Byggmeister, Chris Corson of EcoCor Design/Build, and Oliver Klein of 475 -- all of whom are worth listening to.

The registration fee of $22 ($28 after September 20th) includes a catered lunch.

Asked By Martin Holladay | Sep 18 13
3 Answers

A $2,000,000 green home

Reprinted from WDMA_GREEN@NEWS.INFOINC.COM

Environmental Lawyer Spends $2M Building a Home That Meets Green Building Certifications
ABA Journal (09/06/13) Cassens Weiss, Debra

Asked By Greg Smith | Sep 16 13
5 Answers

Insulating well water line on ledgy lot in climate zone 6...

We are building an energy efficient house in north-central NH (climate zone 6a). This question is a bit off topic, but hopefully someone might be able to help. The lot has shallow soil and there's no way we can trench deep enough to get the well water line below the frost line...and it's very likely that in extended sections we'll only be able to dig 1' or so.

We'd like to avoid rock hammering (damage to already poured slab?) or rock trenching because of expense and other reasons. We feel pretty confident that we can protect the line by:
-burying as deep as possible

Asked By Brian Post | Sep 16 13
2 Answers

4" or 6" bath fan duct?

Hi all. Sadly, i have another project so i'm going to be pestering you with dumb questions again...

We are installing two panasonic whispergreen, .3 sone, 80 cfm bath fans. they both have relatively short duct runs that exit through the wall. the inlet on the fan can be either 4" or 6" diameter. i understand the fan will operate at 80cfm regardless of the length or diameter of the duct but which diameter is more energy efficient..?

thanks again

Asked By erik olofsson | Sep 16 13
2 Answers

Encapsulated batt insulation?

Good morning,,i sent a question in the answer category. not awake yet..

Thanks for reply ..removing the 2x4s woud be to much trouble with al the plumbing and electrical laid out already..what's youre opinion on useing R-13 encapsulated batts for the basement exterior walls..i didnt see anything about that approach...if you suggested the encapsulated batt would work,would i need a extra vapor barrier, being it allready has one..if you dont suggest i have to spring for the closed cell spray foam,,also would i need a vapor barrier for the foam spray
i believe i read it is not needed..thnks

Asked By jerry pignato | Sep 15 13
5 Answers

Can open-web floor truss space be used instead of ductwork for heating/cooling?

I have a already built 3-story 3,800 s.f. colonial Garrison outside of Boston, MA. When we built the home in the late '80s I figured to save money on duct work by not putting in whole house AC. I might have saved then, but I'm going to have to pay now that we are putting in a new HVAC system to replace the oil baseboard heat and window AC.

Asked By Mark Valery | Sep 15 13
2 Answers

Is there such a thing as landscaping that helps home insulation?

I live in New Jersey, and have been recently doing some landscaping around the house. Now I know that shade trees helps with sun in the summer, I'm thinking everyone who has sat under a tree in July knows this.

Asked By Dan N | Sep 16 13
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!