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7 Answers

I think I have decided on the wall assembly that I want to use but by the sounds of it it spend time concentrating on the wall but very little time on the roof.

I have read several books on sustainable design and affordable or low tax housing. My general plan was to build a rectangular house with a gable end roof on a 4/12 pitch. I had intended to use either a 16” or 24” raised heel truss with 2’ overhangs. I intended to use through fastened metal roofing. My design goals are one and only one roof line.

Asked By Shane Fairman | Nov 30 12
4 Answers

I question the use of marshmallow insulation in this wall section, though. Too many voids. I probably would have used sprayed-in cheez-wiz.

Asked By John Semmelhack | Nov 30 12
5 Answers

Insulate new ducts? Bubble wrap or what kind? Water in crawl space solutions?

Hi, I have a small cape cod house on a lake, 2 blocks from the ocean in NJ, that was recently flooded by Hurricane Sandy. The seawater came 4' above ground level, 14" into the house.

There is a low dirt bottom crawlspace, which has water or is wet most of the time because the water table is so high.

Asked By Sandy Sole | Nov 30 12
10 Answers

I have a large amount of glass in my 1965 home. I had read a question here that talked about window quilts and that eventually led me to the idea of covering windows with bubble wrap.

Much of my glass including large sliding doors etc are all bare aluminum frames without thermal breaks or insulation. The idea of adding a semi-clear covering that admits light and I can apply over the glass and frame is pretty appealing.

Of course replacing the windows is a huge expense. Some have single pane and others are double pane from 1965.

Asked By Mark Renfrow | Feb 9 11
3 Answers

The front elevation of my home contains a gable roof area that protrudes less than two feet from the main front wall. There is of course a very small and isolated soffit area on each side of the gable in this 2 foot protusion, that is purely for design as it contains no soffit vents. The gable contains a ridge vent (as does the rest of the attic) and a gable vent. The attic area above this gable area is common the the rest of the house attic, which has functioning soffit vents and baffles.

Asked By Chris Brown | Nov 29 12
2 Answers

I am the second owner of a house I have been retrofitting for a couple years, primarily for energy efficiency. The attic has been brought up to R65 with blown paper cellulose, the rim joists have been insulated with foam, etc. The insulation/weatherization upgrades have brought our house from approx .38 air changes per hour down to .23ach according to blower door tests. We have installed very efficient bath fans and wonder how effectively a product such as the Panasonic passive inlet vent will work in conjunction with the bath fans.

Asked By Christopher Ring | Nov 28 12
3 Answers

We need to mount a 2x8 pressure-treated deck ledger to a conventionally framed wall that has a 8" larsen truss attached to it.

The frame is as such: 2x10 rim joist bearing upon 2x6 mudsill, 5/8" T&G OSB, 8" Larsen truss, 1x4 cross-strap, Tyvek. The deck ledger will be mounted at the same elevation as the rim joist.

The supported length of the deck is not too great, between 5-8'. I would like to attach the ledger on the same plane as th 1x4 strapping and not directly against the OSB.

Asked By erik olofsson | Nov 27 12
1 Answer

I am going to be converting my vented attic to a sealed & insulated attic. We'll be applying spray foam to the underside of the roof deck between the 2x12 rafters, and at the gable ends. It's a simple gable roof, 8:12 pitch. It has a substantial overhang past the exterior wall, with angled fascia and angled soffit panels (i.e. the soffit panels are nailed directly to the underside of the rafter tails, at an 8:12 pitch)

Asked By Michael Hansen | Nov 28 12
20 Answers

While everyone can agree on certain aspects of radiant heat systems e.g., most of the time PEX tubing is the right choice, there is a lot of divergence of opinion on the use of aluminum heat transfer plates in under joist installations over untreated living space. The closest I've been able to come to a reliable answer is a study done that seems to suggest that they are a good idea (ASHRAE Research Project 1036 "Develop Simplified Methodology to Determine Heat Transfer Design Impacts Associated with Common Installation Alternatives for Radiant Conduit")

Asked By Michael schlee | Jan 4 12
7 Answers

Climate zone 5 -- Indianapolis, Indiana. I live in a very small house, 1000 sq ft., so I want to free up the large closet that currently holds the furnace and tanked water heater, both natural gas. I'm chucking the ducted hvac system in favor of a ductless mini-split and converting the tank water heater to tankless. I want to put the new water heater in either the attic or crawlspace. Is one location preferrable? Do I need to purchase a unit designed for outdoor use?

My goal is to move the laundry out of a bedroom and into that large closet space.

Asked By David Martin | Nov 25 12
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