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2 Answers

Looking at using black sheathing for air sealing /baffles cathedral roof

I'm looking for a materiel to constuct some homemade baffles to provide an air gap for a dense packed cathedral roof. The trusses are 32" inches tall with a 1/2 inch plywood deck on top. I understand the need for a gap to allow the deck to dry to the soffits. I'm looking for a material that is permeable enough to allow the cellulose to dry to the gap while providing an air barrier as well. I was looking at this
http://bpcan.com/en-CA/products/insulation-and-structural-boards/composi...

Asked By Geoff Frood | Nov 26 14
2 Answers

U value of double windows for sound proofing?

Hello, I've just recently seen a soundproofing technique where and inner and outer window are installed in the same rough opening with a very large air gap between them (4-6"). What would the U-value impacts be of such an arrangement? Is there a way to calculate this outside of doing a labratory test? Let's assume two double hung windows with U= 0.30 ea. Does the air gap do anything for thermal performance as it does for sound?

Also, if the interior space is as air sealed as can be with normal installation techniques, will these get condensation build up?

Thanks,
Ryan

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 26 14
5 Answers

Locating flue hole without removing wall paneling

I am trying to install a wood stove in a room that has paneling on the walls. The chimney flue has been covered by the paneling. I'd rather not remove the paneling because it was glued to the wall when installed. I have tried several ways to do this but was not successful. I dropped a measuring tape down the chimney, took a measurement but was way too low for the flue when I laid the measurement out. Check the room next to this room and found the chimney and a sealed flue on the opposite side of the chimney. Thought about knocking out the plaster or concrete seal, still an option though.

Asked By Louie Bruno | Nov 19 14
2 Answers

Dense pack Q: Can fiberglass batts be extracted without demo'ing a wall?

OK, a few more insulation questions more question, then I think I've hit my quota for the week (year?) :) I want to learn a bit more about dense packing a wall just so I have that as a data point to make my final decisions.

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 24 14
13 Answers

Rigid polyiso in side attics?

As a spray foam alternative, I'm considering using continuous rigid foam along the 32ft long x 7ft slope in my side attic and just spray foaming in the lower joist bays and places where taping is difficult. The attics are about as simple as can be with no dormers or other obstructions. I will need 8" of polyiso to meet my disired R-value (R-48), while keeping the 2x4 rafter bays wide open for ventilation. There are also HVAC ducts and plumbing in the attic, which is why I'd like to convert it conditioned space.

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 22 14
10 Answers

Help with green addition and hydronic heat demo

I am in the process of designing a pretty substantial addition onto my home in central Missouri. I understand that our relatively low electricity costs will not be around in the next 5-10 years in the US and am planning for this.

Asked By Michael McArdle | Nov 23 14
12 Answers

Does radiant heat recycle water

With regular radiant heating systems that use warm/hot water to run through tubes in the floor to heat the home, what happens to this water - does it get recycled through the system, heated up again, or does it go down a drain?

Asked By Celina Jones | Nov 22 14
19 Answers

Detail for stone veneer

I am looking for a wall framing detail that includes a stone veneer face over 1" ridged insulation. It seems to me that after a rain screen detail over the rigid, the next surface would be OSB or plywood that metal lath would be adhered for applying the stone veneer? So the assembly would be 2x6 stud wall, OSB, WRB, 1" ridged insulation, rain screen (lath, Coravent, etc), 1/2" plywood, metal lath, stone veneer.

Asked By Robert Holland | Nov 16 14
3 Answers

ICF & window areas WITHOUT wood bucks

I observed an ICF build that did NOT use wood window bucks for the window areas. They used some temporary wood shoring but once the shoring was removed the window area was all raw concrete and ICF/EPS foam. The windows will be installed directly into the concrete using concrete screws and window brackets. The windows will be installed halfway in the window area or otherwise known as an "innie" window.

Asked By Peter L | Nov 22 14
4 Answers

Super insulating and soundproofing

I'm curious as to whether anyone has integrated soundproofing techniques into superinsulated walls. As mentioned in other posts, I'm considering adding thickness to my existing walls in the form of rigid foam, without removing current drywall. I hear foam is not the best for sound, although at least the 3/4" airspace and second layer of drywall will help. I'm curious if anyone else has explored trying to get the best of both worlds, R-value and sound reduction, while keeping thickness to a minimum.

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 22 14
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