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0 Answers

We are currently at the framing process on our new home. ~1900 sq-ft. ICF basement. (unfinished) ~1900 sq-ft main level and 800 sq-ft upper level. located in Zone 5B central UT. Most of the exterior will be stucco and I plan on having 2.5" of foam installed underneath on top of the 7/16" sheathing (2x6 walls) I was able to foam gun most of the sill plate to top of foundation as wall as the side bottom edge of the rim board all the way around. Do you think it would be worth using Eco seal or spray foam around the sheathing seams?

Asked By Darren Smith | Feb 8 12
0 Answers

I am looking for a very energy efficient way to build a house and to avoid all mold issues inherent with plastic wrapped houses that can't breathe. Living with mold greatly increases symptoms of Lyme disease.
Got any suggestions?

Asked By Margery Brache | Feb 8 12
6 Answers

GBA Community,
I have looked at a variety of best practices in mold-resistant bathroom strategies and materials for a moderate size full bathroom. I have landed on the following:

Asked By David Epley | Feb 2 12
1 Answer

Hi,
I recently completed a single family home in Va with 6" stud walls (cellulose) and exterior rigid insulation. I wanted to have 2" minimum exterior rigid, but the contractor pointed out that the literature on the specified siding (Hardi-Plank) only supported up to 1" rigid insulation. They also did not seem to support a rainscreen detail of any type when rigid insulation was used.

Asked By Grayson Jordan | Feb 3 12
3 Answers

I am renovating a 115 year old building in Denver, Colorado. The structure is triple-wythe solid-bonded very soft masonry. (See the attached photo.) I'd like to apply Spray Polyurethane Foam on the interior side of the wall and then overframe and drywall. (I can't do anything to the exterior because the facade is landmarked.) I have two concerns:

1) That moisture which enters the wall from the exterior will not be able to get out and could cause laminar separation of the masonry due to the freeze-thaw cycle.

Asked By aaron tweedie | Jan 19 12
25 Answers

Working on a fun home that will get some solar gains and pretty simple design. We plan to make it future PV adaptable when the costs drop some. Looking at a few wall design concepts.

Asked By Jesse Lizer | Jan 20 12
1 Answer

Hello, I'm finishing the basement paying attention to Joe L's detail: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-103-understanding-b...
My drywall contractor suggested vapor retarding primer, before he textures, as this is his standard practice.
Question: should we forego the primer and use only the texture and then latex paint?
thank you

Asked By Frank O | Jan 27 12
4 Answers

Im installing 2”xps against concrete basement walls using insulation adhesive and foaming gaps. However, bracing the rigid panels while the adhesive sets up is proving time consuming. Can I use a concrete screw and washer to brace the panel? Best practices appreciated.

Asked By Frank O | Jan 23 12
2 Answers

My house was built in the 50's, and as is typical for homes in this area, has 1/4 drywall with a real plaster job over it. My question is is this a better/worse/same air/ vapor barrier than standard drywall, taped at seams etc. I'm asking because I'm a little concerned about trapping moisture in the wall now that I've added 5 1/4" or EPS to the exterior. Thanks.

Asked By Aaron Vander Meulen | Jan 20 12
3 Answers

We have some T&G paneling that is going to be installed on our walls and ceilings on a house we are building. Understanding that T&G paneling is not an air barrier we have typically installed Sheetrock first and installed our paneling over top the Sheetrock.

Our interior trim salesman says it is better to use OSB or plywood on the wall as sheetrock holds too much moisture and could cause problems with our T&G. He has been selling interior trim for about 30 years so typically trust his opinion.

Asked By Danny Kelly | Jan 17 12
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