Community: Green building techniques

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3 Answers

I have a question about an effective way to solve an issue in a house with a large family room that has a painted T&G wood planked vaulted ceiling that leaks air and makes the house very cold in the winter.

Asked By Bruce Howe | Sep 1 14
Answers

So I read the innie vs. outie window article on GBA and decided to go with the innie route as I had already made my R/O to size and didn't have time to fir out the windows before my window installer (friend) showed up. So I have my windows in with flanges against sheathing and they stick out just over 2" from the sheathing. I am putting 2' rigid polyiso on the exterior and butting it into the windows. This means there is no foam showing. Do I need to put peel and stick flashing on the exposed foam before installing it? should I leave it away from the window slightly and spray foam that gap?

Asked By jordan Saunders | Sep 1 14
Answers

Wondering if the arctic wall design would be appropriate to use as a roof/cathedral ceiling here in CZ6 upstate NY. There is a comment about it on Martin's blog, but I didn't see any discussion : http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-build-insulat...

from inside out it would be:
GWB,
2x4 service cavity,
1/2" CDX taped and sealed,
parallel chord trusses 12-12 pitch dense packed with cellulose,
vapor open WRB (suggestions for best product welcome),
2x4 furring,
5/8 sheathing,
felt,
asphalt shingles.

Asked By Trevor Chadwick | Sep 1 14
Answers

I am finishing the exterior basement walls in my new home. My plan is adhere rigid to the foundation walls, after that I'll be putting down dricore subfloor, then studding up 2X4 walls on top of the dricore. There will be an air gap between the rigid and the 2X4's as I am laying in r20 "2X6" batts. Plastic vapor barrier will complete the system before the drywall. My question is about the rigid foam. I've been told that as long as it's not type 1 eps it will act as a vapor barrier and protect against moisture.

Asked By Mark McKenzie | Sep 1 14
Answers

We're building a new 2-story home in central Iowa. It will have a below grade basement with 9' foundation walls. The slab will be about 8 feet below grade.

Asked By Silas Hoeppner | Sep 1 14
9 Answers

My designer and I are designing a house as close to passivhaus standards as we can get. We have agreed to design it with SIPs but he thinks a truss roof with spray insulation would work just as well. I'm thinking a SIP roof eliminates potential for thermal bridging and is less costly to install versus the truss roof.

Asked By scott schroeder | Aug 29 14
2 Answers

I have a 1950 house that originally had grooved red cedar shingle siding, 14" exposure with doubled up courses. I'm in Portland Oregon and there are many mid-century houses still with this style of siding and I love the character of it. Unfortunately, in the early 90s, a previous owner covered it up with depressing grey vinyl siding with no window trim at all and it looks pretty bleak. Today I took the vinyl off a small rear wall to asses the shingles. Here are the photos:

Asked By Nick Welch | Aug 26 14
2 Answers

Hi,
I am planning to build 1 floor 80 sq. m. house with SIP on planar foundation with simple flat - mono pitch roof. My "sandwich" will look like this:
SIP 124mm = 12mm OSB3 + 100mm eps + 12mm OSB3 + 200mm NEPS from outside + inside (vapor barrier + gypsum + gypsum).
And this is what I get with such sandwich: http://www.u-wert.net/berechnung/u-wert-rechner/?&d0=1&mid0=195&d1=1&mid...
Foundation will be insulated with 150mm EPS.

Asked By Tomas Batonas | Aug 26 14
11 Answers

I have been thinking about the benefit of putting XPS/EPS foam under the basement slab, and it has gotten me thinking.

I am building in zone 6, where it is quite hot for a couple of months in the summer, getting up into the 90s, and cold in the winter, getting down to the 10's (Fahrenheit) on and off for a couple of months.

Asked By Stephen Youngquist | Aug 21 14
2 Answers

This page describes how to build a DIY blower door:

http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Conservation/BlowerDoor/BlowerDoor.htm

Basically you use a furnace blower and a cheap magnetic or tube-of-water manometer. You can't finely tune the speed of the blower like a professional blower door, but given the few built-in speeds of the motor, you can generally find a speed that yields close enough to 50Pa that you can extrapolate the CFM50.

Asked By Nick Welch | Aug 21 14
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