Community: Green building techniques

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!


14 Answers

House fully insulated with 2" rigid foam

Hi,
I have been an avid viewer of this site for a couple of years now, ever since I knew I was going to be building my new home. This is, however, my first post to the site.

Asked By Nick Beining | Jan 13 15
18 Answers

Double Staggered-Stud Wall vs. 2x3 + Foam Strip + 2x4 Wall

My new house will be in a part of climate zone 2B in Arizona where the winter nights often dip into the 30s and the summer days often rise to 100 with around 45 days of "monsoon season" mostly in August when we'll get an hour of thunderstorms once or twice a week. We have moderate to severe termites.

Asked By Jeff Cooper | Jan 23 15
2 Answers

Advice for basement wall and flooring on an uninsulated basement slab

I am insulated a basement with a very low head room and cannot add any insulation to the floor. I am insulating the exterior walls and I have a trench drain and sump on the interior perimeter of the basement. This had been installed before moving in to the house. No water has shown up in the basement in the last 4 years.

The walls are fieldstone and I intend to use spray foam and provide a dimple mat along the fieldstone wall to funnel any water into the trench at the perimeter. Not sure if this dimple mat should go up the side completely or not.

Asked By E M | Jan 22 15
10 Answers

Got cellulose insulation, how to fix the interior holes?

They drilled two holes and loose filled it (i know, it should be dense packed). The holes are 2 inches wide, and plugged with styrofoam discs about 1in thick. Some are reasonably tight, some are loose. What is a good way to fix this, if i drywall compound and paint many of these will move over time. I was thinking of using a few cans of spray foam, cutting flush with a painting razor and painting. Would this work well, or do i need to sand and plaster before painting or is there a better way?

Asked By Alan B | Jan 22 15
8 Answers

Rigid foam on inside of stud cavity?

Looking to maximum the insulation levels as high as I can and not use spray foam due to price.

Asked By kurtis wiedmann | Jan 25 15
11 Answers

Longevity of double wall construction?

I'm currently designing a new home as an owner/builder (construction to begin later this year) for the Edmonton, Alberta area. I have several years of building experience, however I have to admit that I've only ever done status quo jobs - 2x6 construction with fiberglass batts, a poly vapor barrier and OSB sheathing.

Asked By Matthew Sokalski | Jan 23 15
4 Answers

Slab on grade floor repair

About 20 years ago two rooms were added onto this house, both have a slab on grade and the floor tiles are cracking, i had to repair a wall in one of the rooms, and it looks like the floor was the slab with a styrofoam sheet on top (2-3 inches thick), with 1/4in plywood, black adhesive (tar?) and kraft tiles on top (i have no idea what these tiles are called, they are 12x12 in, used in many schools and older buildings, are less then 1/4 in thick and are the same fibrous material all the way through (and i'm hoping not asbestos, they were installed about 10 years ago i am told).

Asked By Alan B | Jan 22 15
2 Answers

How to insulate a partially open unvented ceiling/roof?

We've had a leak and ceiling damage in a 50 yr old house with a flat roof in zone 4A. Part of the ceiling is gone, damaged, part still intact with its fiberglass.So there are cavities with part fiberglass. There is no ventilation in the cavities. This part of the roof was re-roofed a few years ago and some sort of foam board was added on the exterior (presumably between the old rubber and new TPO) at that time. The is no condensation currently with the cavities open.

Asked By Katie Dorst | Jan 23 15
19 Answers

Can brick/stone veneer coexist with double wall construction?

Before I started reading articles here on double walls and dew point issues in the OSB/Plywood sheathing I had intended the following wall construction on a 10" foundation (4" ledge + 6" concrete) wall - 3" stone veneer, 1" drainage plane, Tyvek, plywood sheathing, 2x6 load bearing wall, 2" inch XPS layer, 2x4 interior non-load bearing wall, drywall. Forget all that now.

Clearly that plan was a disaster waiting to happen in that the sheathing would run afoul of the guidelines regarding proportion of exterior insulation with respect to insulation inboard of the sheathing.

Asked By Alex House | Jan 9 15
0 Answers

Foundation Details

Hey,

New to here and appreciative of all the learning I've done pouring over all the info.

I have a couple questions related to designing the foundation for my home.

I want to have a perimeter concrete foundation (either frost-protected or to below frost line, haven't decided yet) and ideally a finished earthen floor on grade for passive solar use (and less hard on the feet than concrete). I'm wondering about a couple of the details:

Asked By Moses Draper | Jan 22 15
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!