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2 Answers

ICF & window areas WITHOUT wood bucks

I observed an ICF build that did NOT use wood window bucks for the window areas. They used some temporary wood shoring but once the shoring was removed the window area was all raw concrete and ICF/EPS foam. The windows will be installed directly into the concrete using concrete screws and window brackets. The windows will be installed halfway in the window area or otherwise known as an "innie" window.

Asked By Peter L | Nov 22 14
2 Answers

Rigid polyiso in side attics?

As a spray foam alternative, I'm considering using continuous rigid foam along the 32ft long x 7ft slope in my side attic and just spray foaming in the lower joist bays and places where taping is difficult. The attics are about as simple as can be with no dormers or other obstructions. I will need 8" of polyiso to meet my disired R-value (R-48), while keeping the 2x4 rafter bays wide open for ventilation. There are also HVAC ducts and plumbing in the attic, which is why I'd like to convert it conditioned space.

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 22 14
4 Answers

Super insulating and soundproofing

I'm curious as to whether anyone has integrated soundproofing techniques into superinsulated walls. As mentioned in other posts, I'm considering adding thickness to my existing walls in the form of rigid foam, without removing current drywall. I hear foam is not the best for sound, although at least the 3/4" airspace and second layer of drywall will help. I'm curious if anyone else has explored trying to get the best of both worlds, R-value and sound reduction, while keeping thickness to a minimum.

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 22 14
18 Answers

Detail for stone veneer

I am looking for a wall framing detail that includes a stone veneer face over 1" ridged insulation. It seems to me that after a rain screen detail over the rigid, the next surface would be OSB or plywood that metal lath would be adhered for applying the stone veneer? So the assembly would be 2x6 stud wall, OSB, WRB, 1" ridged insulation, rain screen (lath, Coravent, etc), 1/2" plywood, metal lath, stone veneer.

Asked By Robert Holland | Nov 16 14
4 Answers

Help with Green Addition and hyrdonic heat demo

I am in the process of designing a pretty substantial addition onto my home in central Missouri. I understand that our relatively low electricity costs will not be around in the next 5-10 years in the US and am planning for this.

Asked By Michael McArdle | Nov 23 14
9 Answers

Does radiant heat recycle water

With regular radiant heating systems that use warm/hot water to run through tubes in the floor to heat the home, what happens to this water - does it get recycled through the system, heated up again, or does it go down a drain?

Asked By Celina Jones | Nov 22 14
6 Answers

Proper wall to attach rigid foam to the inside of the wall?

Question: what is the best way to attach rigid foam (foil faced polyiso) board to the inside of a finished wall? Can I just use longer drywall screws to go through the 1" foam and existing drywall? What if I'm going with more than that (say 2 or 3 inches of polyiso)? I'm worried that this method would have a greater tendency to pop the drywall screws out under small impacts like hanging a picture. I'm also worried that the walls will sound hollow or be bouncy when knocking on them. What are the best practices for each thickness of foam?

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 17 14
4 Answers

Is this ridiculous?

We live in a 1600 sqft 2 level end unit rowhouse with structural historic masonry walls from the 1890s.

Housing is really expensive where we live, figure between $400-500 per square foot, so we're trying to balance efficiency & comfort with sacrifices of this valuable square footage. We have a crawl space and attic, and intend to condition both so we can run ductwork without replacing the joists on the second floor.

Asked By Mike Madowitz | Nov 21 14
3 Answers

Locating flue hole without removing wall paneling

I am trying to install a wood stove in a room that has paneling on the walls. The chimney flue has been covered by the paneling. I'd rather not remove the paneling because it was glued to the wall when installed. I have tried several ways to do this but was not successful. I dropped a measuring tape down the chimney, took a measurement but was way too low for the flue when I laid the measurement out. Check the room next to this room and found the chimney and a sealed flue on the opposite side of the chimney. Thought about knocking out the plaster or concrete seal, still an option though.

Asked By Louie Bruno | Nov 19 14
6 Answers

Mixed-humid insulation recommendations

I've read a great deal about building science and energy-efficient building practices. This site is a great resource. I think I understand the theory, but I have a few questions that are perhaps best answered by experience.

Asked By Jeffrey S | Nov 16 14
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