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2 Answers

Window flashing and trim with exterior rockwool

Were building a home on Vancouver Island (4C) and are planning on split insulation strategy as follows:

1" X 4" strapping>1.5" roxul comfort board> building paper > 1/2" sheathing > 2X6 structural w/ dense pack cellulose > drywall with vapor retardant paint.

Asked By colin slade | Nov 25 14
3 Answers

What's a good damper for a bath fan/range hood vent?

My bath fan vent is basically a big hole in the house to the exterior and sucks air out of the house in the high New Mexico winds, which today reached 30 mph. There's no damper or air check valve or anything like that installed up there, and I'd like to rectify it. What do people use for this situation? A standard butterfly damper? Something louvered? This thing? http://www.batticdoor.com/bathfandraftblocker.html

Asked By Nathaniel G | Nov 23 14
2 Answers

Any good thoughts on Drolet wood stoves?

A relative is asking about efficient wood burning stoves. Any thoughts. I would never burn wood outside an occasional campfire using up leftover 2x4 cut offs. I told him any Canadian company can't be all that bad and it the 2000 is EPA rated whatever that means...

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
PK

Asked By Paul Kuenn | Nov 23 14
39 Answers

Seeking an air-to-water heat pump

I'm looking for an air-to-water heat pump and feedback from those who've used them. We have a LEED for Homes project in Victoria, BC, perfect climate for heat pump, affordability of project prohibits groundsource for 36Kbtu heat loss of 1800 ft2 home and for optimal comfort, low temp/efficiency, to avoid ducting we're selected hydronic in-slab for heating distribution thus standard air-to-air heat pump is a no-go.

Asked By Allison Ashcroft | Jul 28 09
6 Answers

Insulating a cathedral ceiling

I am trying to find an effective way to insulate a cathedral ceiling (with collar ties) in zone 5 south of Chicago. I have read many of the postings and have gathered much information, but am still hesitant due to the moisture drying to one side issue.

What I have is 2x6 rafters on a 4/12. I am doing a complete remodel and plan on removing the existing drywall and insulation. I want to verify the existence (or not) of ventilation chutes from eave to ridge.

Asked By jon cypert | Nov 25 11
9 Answers

1.5" of rigid insulation over stucco; polyiso or EPS?

I have a stucco house in high desert New Mexico (zone 5B). The stucco is in bad shape after having been terribly abused by the previous owners, so I'm taking the opportunity to have the whole house wrapped in continuous rigid insulation as part of the re-stucco project. The boards would be applied over the existing deteriorating stucco, fastened through it and the sheathing and to the studs, and then a new 1/2" two-coat cementitious stucco cladding will be attached over it.

Asked By Nathaniel G | Oct 2 14
12 Answers

What is the efficiency of gas powered infrared radiant heat?

My project: Climate zone 6A Hortonville, WI 54944 Energy source: electric or propane, no natural gas available

An earlier post about heating garage brought up the possibility of gas powered infrared radiant. I'm familiar with these devices, but I literally can't find any information from the manufacturers regarding their efficiency. They all claim to be "very efficient" for various reasons, but I can't find hard data.

Are they rated by a percent like house furnaces? I.E. Are they in the range of 80% efficient ceiling hung unit heaters?

Asked By Rick Van Handel | Nov 24 14
1 Answer

poly under slab and over sill ?

We are building a super tight insulated house (passive inspired). My Q is does the 10 mil poly that we will put under the slab have to run up the interior basement walls and over the sill. Our house has a full basement, the concrete exterior has been waterproofed, insulated and back filled. Our sill seal will be acoustical sealant, EPDM gasket and PT sill. I understand the poly is a vapor barrier and the concrete is the air barrier. I have had a hard time finding info on the web about full basement as opposed to slabs.

Asked By Jocelyn Smith | Nov 25 14
13 Answers

Spray foam insulation

I have a 100 year old house in Zone 5. There is a sunroom (approx. 5'X20') on the south side of the house which is all windows. It is built on piles (about 4' to the bottom of the joists) and open underneath with lattice. The room is open to the living room of my home and is heated by 2 forced hot water radiators. When we bought the home the floor was insulated from underneath by batt insulation and rigid insulation between the joist cavities. We had an energy audit performed when we moved in and were told this was all good. Still, the floor has always been cold.

Asked By Danny Mac | Nov 17 14
9 Answers

Mold on inside of plywood sheathing

I recently purchased a super insulated house in the Concord, NH area. The house is 3 years old. From my investigation and discussions with the previous owner the wall system is double stud insulated with 3 layers of 3.5" Roxul Comfortbatt. The sheathing is Huber Zipwall with taped joints. The siding is cement board clapboards nailed directly to the sheathing. The inside is drywall and I'm told gasketed at joints and electrical outlets. there is no interior vapor barrier and the paint appears to just be regular latex.

Asked By Aaron Saucier | Nov 25 14
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