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1 Answer

Hi,

I am in the middle of a bathroom remodel. My house was built in the late 60s and is located in climate zone 6 (Quebec). My question is about the damaged kraft paper that is supposed to act as a vapor barrier. From what I can see the wall assembly is (from the interior):

- Drywall
- Kraft paper
- Furring strips
- Some cardboard fiber and studs
- Probably batts insulation (I can't see behind the cardboard)
- Tar paper and exterior sheeting (brick)

Asked By Guillaume Dumont | Sep 1 14
1 Answer

We're building a new 2-story home in central Iowa. It will have a below grade basement with 9' foundation walls. The slab will be about 8 feet below grade.

Asked By Silas Hoeppner | Sep 1 14
1 Answer

I am finishing the exterior basement walls in my new home. My plan is adhere rigid to the foundation walls, after that I'll be putting down dricore subfloor, then studding up 2X4 walls on top of the dricore. There will be an air gap between the rigid and the 2X4's as I am laying in R-20 "2X6" batts. Plastic vapor barrier will complete the system before the drywall.

Asked By Mark McKenzie | Sep 1 14
1 Answer

Hello,
I live in the Pacific north west, and will be building a home off the cost of Vancouver island this fall. The house is small, 700 square feet, with a 1 n 12 pitched roof as the design. We have not started construction on the house as yet and we want to deal with the roof in a way that will, of course, provide the best of all worlds.

Asked By Jeannette Sirois | Sep 1 14
19 Answers

I would like to decide on putting in solar panels to reduce energy costs.

I have read about the next generation solar panels not being to far off.

Question: Would it be better to install current solar panels or wait for the new type that will be coming shortly?

Asked By John Alberti | Aug 26 14
2 Answers

Wondering if the arctic wall design would be appropriate to use as a roof/cathedral ceiling here in CZ6 upstate NY. There is a comment about it on Martin's blog, but I didn't see any discussion : http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-build-insulat...

from inside out it would be:
GWB,
2x4 service cavity,
1/2" CDX taped and sealed,
parallel chord trusses 12-12 pitch dense packed with cellulose,
vapor open WRB (suggestions for best product welcome),
2x4 furring,
5/8 sheathing,
felt,
asphalt shingles.

Asked By Trevor Chadwick | Sep 1 14
1 Answer

Hi folks, great site.

I have a crawlspace in a new house that smells of chemicals. The dirt floor is sealed with a vapor barrier and the walls have Spray Foam Insulation. The space is pretty airtight.

My ERV was installed incorrectly (another story) and sometimes the smell from the crawlspace comes up into the house. Makes my eyes burn, and it gives me a headache. Hopefully that will be fixed this week!

Should I be able to smell the foam 2 months after it has been installed?

Asked By Brett Michaels | Sep 1 14
1 Answer

So I read the innie vs. outie window article on GBA and decided to go with the innie route as I had already made my R/O to size and didn't have time to fir out the windows before my window installer (friend) showed up. So I have my windows in with flanges against sheathing and they stick out just over 2" from the sheathing. I am putting 2' rigid polyiso on the exterior and butting it into the windows. This means there is no foam showing. Do I need to put peel and stick flashing on the exposed foam before installing it? should I leave it away from the window slightly and spray foam that gap?

Asked By jordan Saunders | Sep 1 14
2 Answers

Most of the blower door tests that are mentioned on GBA give numbers under 3 or 2 or 1 ACH50. I'm guessing that none of these homes have a traditional fireplace. How much does a traditional fireplace with standard chimney damper contribute to air exchange numbers? What are some recommendations for improving a house with fireplace and chimney?

Asked By Derek Roff | Sep 1 14
16 Answers

Hi. I am back and forth on whether I should use XPS (blue board) or EPS for the insulation underneath my slab. I understand the qualities of each regarding water absorption and drying out, but would it (XPS particularly) affect the long term performance to the point where the slab is compromised? I also understand the pollution associated with XPS manufacturing. I have the option of purchasing 6" (house in very cold climate) of EPS (R-24) or 4" of XPS (R-20). The EPS is less expensive per inch, however, I need to pay for shipping which jacks up the price.

Asked By Matthew Michaud | May 2 14
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