Stick-framed equivalent to high-heel/energy truss?
Does anyone have a framing detail that shows how to create a high heel area when using traditional stick framing? I want to get lots of insulation on top of the wall's top plate, but I don't want to order pre-fab trusses. There is a 50-50 chance that there will be a structural ridge beam (as opposed to non-structural ridge board) in the design, in case that makes a difference (which I think it should).
How do you give yourself a good say 20" of insulation space right to the edge of the exterior wall, when your framing members are 2x6's or 2x8's?
I could see the challenge being much bigger without a structural ridge beam, because then you need to faithfully "complete the triangle" at the bottom - being the ceiling joists/bottom chord - which helps to keep the wall from bowing out.
With a structural ridge beam, you could pretty much just build a knee-wall/pony wall on top of the top plate. Almost like framing another short storey that would just be all insulation?
Or with either structural or non-structural ridge, maybe you could use much longer studs, and frame your walls to be 20" higher. Then basically build a second/lowered ceiling to mount your drywall, be the air barrier, and contain the insulation. The bottom chord of the roof triangle could be traditionally framed, and just sit 20" higher, on the top plate of your artificially taller wall.
I want to know how you all would tackle this. Or does everyone just specify really deep-heeled pre-fab trusses?
The pic is just from the Building Science people's glossary.
Posted Tue, 08/20/2013 - 12:45
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