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41 Answers

In another thread, my choice for HVAC was appropriately questioned. The system seems inordinately complex, costly, and convoluted. At least, on the surface. But digging deeper, the reasoning behind the design becomes clear. But, does that make it right? Is this the best HVAC design, or is it redundant and wasteful?

Here are the pertinents:
• Climate Zone 6
• 2700 sq. ft. finished space in story-and-a-half (bungalow style) house
• 2000 sq. ft. unfinished basement (future completion for aging parents)
• 4 Bdrm, 3 ½ bath house
• Tight, highly insulated home

Asked By Kent Jeffery | Apr 16 14
1 Answer

Are the ductless minis that utilize a cassette unit vs a wall unit, less efficient?
Are there any drawbacks to a cassette unit over a wall mounted unit?
Lastly, can a cassette unit be mounted on a wall or is that not a good idea?

Asked By Peter L | Apr 19 14
1 Answer

I am renovating my house, installing solar panels and getting rid of my gas forced hot air system and replacing with mini-splits (very small home < 1000 sq feet)
I would like to install an energy efficient heating system in the bathroom (about 6' x 8') as I'm not sure the heat will effectively get there, plus I like to have a separate zone for the bath for the usual reasons. i had thought about electric radiant heat in the floor but have heard that can be quite an energy drain.
Do people have a suggestion for a very small heating unit for this purpose?
Thanks!
Maggie

Asked By maggie wilbur | Apr 19 14
1 Answer

Hey folks, been reading the site for a while during our planning process and its time to start asking some questions.

Asked By Erik Schmitt | Apr 19 14
2 Answers

Thanks for any suggesWhat is a good old bathroom exterior wall progression method (1947 home in Edmonton, Alberta) ?

From outside to inside: cedar siding, then 2X6 Douglas Fir planks, 12" studs.

What would be a good insulation choice?

What would be a good baker board choice?

What would be a good drywall choice?

Should a vapor barrier be used?

Will also be installing a bathroom fan- horizontal exhausting through exterior wall due to possible vermiculite/asbestos in attic. What would be the specs for this? It is difficult to find information for this unusual location.

Asked By Lisa MArtin | Apr 15 14
7 Answers

In building a home in zone 4 (western NC), I am interested in determining the better way to go to create an effective air barrier:

Outside in:

Option 1: Hardie, 1 x 4 Furring for 3/4" Rainscreen Gap, 2" Roxul ComfortBoard IS, #30 Felt, 1/2" MgO Sheathing, 2 x 6 Stud Wall with 5 1/2" of Roxul ComfortBatt in the Cavities, 1/2" Mgo Wall Board using the Airtight Drywall Approach

Asked By Stacey Owens | Apr 17 14
1 Answer

I am replacing a 30 year old plastic bubble skylight as part of a major remodel. The skylight is located a flat (low slope) roof in a typical Chicago small residential building and serves a third floor bathroom. The skylight will not be openable.

I have searched this site, the web, and the manufacturer's installation information, but am still unsure how to orient the skylight to maximize its benefits, while reducing drawbacks, like unwanted heat in Summer. It appears that the only requirement is that the skylight be installed at a slope greater than 15 degrees.

Asked By Dan Nehm | Apr 19 14
10 Answers

First, I'd like to thank the many pros and contributors here at GBA. I have been reading and learning for quite some time. Thank you all, first for caring about green building, and second, for being willing to share your time and expertise.

Asked By Stacey Owens | Mar 31 14
2 Answers

We're building a pretty good green home in Gardnerville, NV, a place that gets 8" rain per year. We get cold in the winter (-10°) and are pretty warm in summer, about 10 days with >100° temps. Radon is an issue in our area. Our new home is being constructed with SIPs, therefore no attic space. We have natural gas at the site, pretty cheap in Northern NV. Our plan is forced air heating via Natural Gas in winter and a few days in summer when we'll use A/C.

Asked By Richard Starrett | Apr 18 14
3 Answers

I have a recurring question / situation that comes up in my east central MN location (6b-7a border). There are many 1970's homes undergoing remodeling and looking to add insulation for improved comfort and energy effciency. Miost common construction is drywall, kraft faced R13, 2x4 walls, 3/4" Bildrite (asphalt fiberboard sheathing).

Asked By Troy Tvedt | Apr 17 14
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