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6 Answers

1.5" of rigid insulation over stucco; Polyiso or EPS?

I have a stucco house in high desert New Mexico (zone 5B). The stucco is in bad shape after having been terribly abused by the previous owners, so I'm taking the opportunity to have the whole house wrapped in continuous rigid insulation as part of the re-stucco project. The boards would be applied over the existing deteriorating stucco, fastened through it and the sheathing and to the studs, and then a new 1/2" two-coat cementitious stucco cladding will be attached over it.

Asked By Nathaniel G | Oct 2 14
0 Answers

What is the efficiency of gas powered infrared radiant heat?

My project: Climate zone 6A Hortonville, WI 54944 Energy source: electric or propane, no natural gas available

An earlier post about heating garage brought up the possibility of gas powered infrared radiant. I'm familiar with these devices, but I literally can't find any information from the manufacturers regarding their efficiency. They all claim to be "very efficient" for various reasons, but I can't find hard data.

Are they rated by a percent like house furnaces? I.E. Are they in the range of 80% efficient ceiling hung unit heaters?

Asked By Rick Van Handel | Nov 24 14
6 Answers

Spray foam insulation

I have a 100 year old house in Zone 5. There is a sunroom (approx. 5'X20') on the south side of the house which is all windows. It is built on piles (about 4' to the bottom of the joists) and open underneath with lattice. The room is open to the living room of my home and is heated by 2 forced hot water radiators. When we bought the home the floor was insulated from underneath by batt insulation and rigid insulation between the joist cavities. We had an energy audit performed when we moved in and were told this was all good. Still, the floor has always been cold.

Asked By Danny Mac | Nov 17 14
9 Answers

Rigid polyiso in side attics?

As a spray foam alternative, I'm considering using continuous rigid foam along the 32ft long x 7ft slope in my side attic and just spray foaming in the lower joist bays and places where taping is difficult. The attics are about as simple as can be with no dormers or other obstructions. I will need 8" of polyiso to meet my disired R-value (R-48), while keeping the 2x4 rafter bays wide open for ventilation. There are also HVAC ducts and plumbing in the attic, which is why I'd like to convert it conditioned space.

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 22 14
2 Answers

Round window flashing and water management

I have a situation with a remodel on a 1970's house with one round window that was replaced. The new window is installed, and the company had me replace siding and trim around the window. The window is an aluminum clad round (well, round with a flat section at the bottom, roughly 4" above where the siding stops).

We started out by installing sheathing on the wall- it had been built with no sheathing- it's a complicated wall with two round windows, and there are custom steel brackets holding everything in place (sort of).

Asked By lavrans mathiesen | Nov 23 14
3 Answers

Mitsubishi M-Series New FH vs. Old FE models

We're in the market for an M-series heat pump and dealers have been quoting us the older FE models rather than the newer FH models. Is it a mistake to purchase an older model that will probably be discontinued sooner rather than later? I would think so. Thoughts? Thanks.

Asked By David Greenberg | Nov 21 14
0 Answers

Botched weatherization retrofit

My weatherization contractor is supposed to follow the BPI (building performance institute) standards for installation. At least, this is what my contract states. The standards that I found on the BPI site state "Where soffit vents are present, and access is viable, appropriate blocking or baffles are required to provide protection from wind-washing where insulation exists." The contractor installed 2 things questionably. Well, one may fall into a bit of a gray area I guess, but the other seems just plain incorrect.

Asked By Michael Lee | Nov 24 14
4 Answers

Locating flue hole without removing wall paneling

I am trying to install a wood stove in a room that has paneling on the walls. The chimney flue has been covered by the paneling. I'd rather not remove the paneling because it was glued to the wall when installed. I have tried several ways to do this but was not successful. I dropped a measuring tape down the chimney, took a measurement but was way too low for the flue when I laid the measurement out. Check the room next to this room and found the chimney and a sealed flue on the opposite side of the chimney. Thought about knocking out the plaster or concrete seal, still an option though.

Asked By Louie Bruno | Nov 19 14
3 Answers

Could you please provide me of an example of a temporary one-floor sustainable building?

I am currently undergoing a project at college and i need to research temporary sustainable buildings

Asked By Alfie Andrews | Nov 24 14
3 Answers

Windows yes, but what about doors?

I was wondering if doors in the US are also rated like windows (at least in europe) for air leakage, etc?

Any tips on reasonably priced (maybe to much to wish for) exterior door manufacturers that do a good job on air sealing their units?

I build in Northern Zone 3.

Asked By leo kloop | Nov 17 14
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