Replies

1. GBA Editor
   Martin Holladay | Jul 19, 2012 11:45am | #1

   Joe,
   A home performance contractor or energy rater should be able to provide you with a list of measures that answers your question. The list should be prepared based on an inspection of the house (including a blower-door test and infrared thermography).

   Any advice you receive here will be less useful than advice based on inspection.

   That said, it sounds like your house needs new insulation along the roof slope to create an unvented conditioned attic. It would probably also be a good idea to create an unvented conditioned crawl space.

   Good luck.

2. 
   JoeW519 | Jul 19, 2012 11:53am | #2

   thanks Martin. That's why I said: "When I take possession of the house, he plans to begin with a blower door and duct blaster test."

   On first glance, we all agree ... and there goes about $12K, just a bit less than 50% of budget.

3. 
   kevin_in_denver | Jul 19, 2012 01:44pm | #3

   Just a caveat for older larger homes and buildings with zoned hydronic heat: Re-commissioning of the system, especially the controls is the first thing to do. Over time, well-meaning repairmen have often tweaked the system to use much more energy than really required.

   So in some cases, this is by far the "best bang for the buck"

4. 
   wjrobinson | Jul 19, 2012 03:34pm | #4

   12k? For?

   Joe, reading your description, this home has not one energy saving component to start with. And actually has what sounds like the same construction one would find here built before the oil embargo days. I am thinking you are gettina deep discount on your purchase price.

   Also because what you see appearance-wise looks great and has you wanting it, you would have to rip up what you like to do high level energy saving changes.

   To me it is the worst home to pick to retrofit.

   The best to me is a home that needs either the entire exterior replaced or the entire interior replaced with an exterior redo being by far the most cost effective. Like a home with horrble siding and bad roofing deeply discounted but still in a great neighborhood.

5. 
   JoeW519 | Jul 19, 2012 05:13pm | #5

   AJ, you're clearly out of touch with what we in Georgia think of as "modern." Seriously. I've built six houses (north of where you are) and had to learn when I moved south that, down here, many people insist we don't need insulation because it's warm here. Air sealing is often a foreign concept.

   Given that, I've been over the house with a fine tooth comb 3 times, once alone, once with my ResNet contractor friend, and once with a very thorough building inspector. The house is rock solid, ten years old, and I've budgeted to improve efficiency rather than build new because buying resale is about 50% of a new build/square foot.

   Do you have any suggestions for what to put a priority on with my $25K budget? Where would you start ... after you encapsulate the crawl and probably the attic. You're very vocal and I'd appreciate your suggestions ... other than running from it.

   And of course I'll post what I decide to do after all the bids are in.

   Thanks, Joe

6. 
   wjrobinson | Jul 19, 2012 06:38pm | #6

   Joe, Do your air sealing, and attic and crawl and add PV with the leftover budget. Done. If shade prohibits PV, then stop, done. No ROI, after that, just add what you will enjoy.

   Yes I am vocal. Wishy washy gets me no where.

7. 
   MICHAEL CHANDLER | Jul 20, 2012 12:25am | #7

   Air seal all ductwork, esp return air ductwork.

   encapsulate crawlspace, rim joists, plumbing penetrations in floor from below retaining crawl space ceiling insulation

   Seal attic floor, tops of all accessible walls. any place attic insulation is discolored by passage of bulk air.

   Box in any mechanical equipment in attic, including whole house fan if any, with box made of 2 layers of foil faced poly iso sealed to attic floor w/ canned foam and to itself with foil tape.

   Add cellulose insulation over existing attic insulation to R-38 minimum

   Add 2 layers of foil faced poly iso foam to foundation walls, offset joints adhere w/ nylon drive anchors from McMaster Carr.

   That may well finish the $25 K

8. 
   JoeW519 | Jul 20, 2012 08:18am | #8

   Thanks Michael -- I like the suggestion to box the mechanical equipment in a vented attic.

   I do hope I've got enough $$ left to go a bit further but will have to see.