Preventing wall rot - new construction
In PA I've undertaken a renovation project on a 110-year-old home. The original structure is stone/brick and stucco and the kitchen/bath addition (constructed 50-70 years ago?) was built from lumber.
The kitchen and bath existed on a rotting wood beam foundation and severe water and termite damage was present in the foundation and walls, which buckled. I demo'ed these two structures and the underlying foundation.
A new concrete block foundation was constructed and framers rebuilt the the kitchen (on the first floor) and bath (on the second floor.) The problem is that this new two story structure, in the back of the house, sits adjacent to the original structure without being tied in with joists or bolts. Two of the additions walls are exposed to the outside; one wall sits adjacent to the old structure; one wall borders a neighboring twin property.
My first question is: How best to connect the two structures (original home and new construction) to prevent racking?
In addition, since the property is a twin, the new kitchen wall that sits adjacent to the neighboring property was framed approx. 1/2" from the neighboring concrete block and brick wall (the size of the gap varies from top to bottom.) The gap that exists isn't covered by the roof, which followed the framing lines. So, I'm left with a gap that can't be sheathed with Tyvek (the framers used 2X4's covered with plywood) because it's inaccessible, yet water, snow, etc. can enter this gap between the two homes and rot my new structure. How can I reconnect the twin properties and close this gap?
Is it necessary to tear down this wall (difficult, since the second story structure sits on it) and rebuild with other materials or can the gap be sealed via another method that provides a water barrier? Can the roof line be adjusted to cover this gap on the second floor? I have limited time (with bad weather approaching) and don't know how to proceed.
Posted Tue, 01/08/2013 - 21:01
Edited Wed, 01/09/2013 - 07:14
Other Questions in GBA Pro help
Since drywall has a permeance of 0.02 liter/sec - m at 75 PA is ever possible to have sheathing dry to the interior of the home?