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0 Answers

attic insulation existing

I have a 1800 sq ft ranch home built in 1969. climate zone 5. existing attic floor/ceiling area has a layer of 3" fiberglass insulation with vapor retarder facing the heated space. the second layer of insulation is a 3" layer of fiberglass with vapor retarder facing the attic area. both layers have been installed inside the joist bays and stuffed very tightly at the top of wall/ceiling intersection-no soffit vents in place. the roof has box vents and gable vents in place for ventilation.

Asked By bob prince | Oct 22 14
0 Answers

How does the attic fan work? And can you use it in the winter?

We bought a house early this year in northern Virginia that has a attic whole house fan. It h's a pulley on it that closes a box on the fan or opens it. we believe that one way makes the air blow in the attic and the other to push the air down into the closet under the stairs to the bottom level of our home. We had it where the air vented to the attic all summer but not sure that we did it correctly. Now it is getting cold and we are using the fireplace and not sure if we should run the fan or not. The fan is attached to a thermostats in order to adjust it.

Asked By Aleasha Jeffries | Oct 22 14
0 Answers

Spray foam over XPS on external wall

I purchased about 600 bdf of spray foam, and had planned on using it for my rim joists of my baasement (about 200 board foot of it). My house is a walk-out, so I have a combination of poured concrete walls and above-grade 2x6 stud-framed wall in the basement level.

I have sheets of 1" XPS available, so I was thinking about layering the XPS rigid foam sheets on my 2x6 walls, at 2" thick (possibly 3") and then covering that with a 1" layer of spray foam to air-seal it.

Asked By Jeff M | Oct 22 14
2 Answers

Gluing rigid insulation to interior of roof sheathing

My home is in Northern Michigan and I wish to insulate an attic that has storage trusses and considerable open spaces behind the perpendicuilar truss members. There is soffit venting around the entire attic perimeter. The attic floor is insulated to R 30. (Peaked roof built over original flat roof)

My first choice was to spray polyurethane to the cathedral underside of the roof sheathing, however I am having difficulty scheduling a contractor, most of whom have bigger jobs they are chasing, so I am considering other options.

Asked By Wes Benner | Oct 22 14
2 Answers

Insulation of the interior stem wall

I am building a 40x60 metal workshop. It is slab-on-grade and I had specified 2" rigid foam on the interior of the stub wall, thus creating a thermal bridge between the foundation and the slab. The footing and stem wall have just been poured. I think there has been a mis-connect between my contractor and myself because it looks like he is going to place 2" thick rigid foam only in the space between the footing and the slab (i.e. the 4" slab will be "faced" with 2" thick rigid foam...

Asked By ron marsh | Oct 22 14
8 Answers

Window U-value comparison to wall R-value and window replacement

We have an 1870s Victorian farmhouse that doesn't have insulation in the walls, and to keep it simple, we cannot add insulation in the walls without going to great expense, more than we can afford.

Asked By Keith Miller | Oct 20 14
12 Answers

Thermal energy storage

~3900 square foot house.

I am thinking of building a water based TES tank using ICF in a crawl space.

The plan would be to use RV antifreeze in an active (pump) circulating heat exchanger that sits at the bottom of a tank of water. Domestic water supply would pass through another heat exchanger that sits at the top (for stratified water column effects) inside this tank and preheat water for radiant hydronic boiler and domestic hot water.

I was thinking 12'x12' @ 6' tall for a 864 cubic foot / 6463 gallon tank.

Asked By Jim Pancanke | Oct 21 14
0 Answers

Sealing meeting point of brick wall and asphalt driveway

Hi,

My house, a semi-detached, has an asphalt mutual drive between it and the neighbors house to the south that comes right up to the side of the house.

I'm concerned about the meeting point between the asphalt and the brick as it looks like water can collect there and seep into the brick (I have some Interior spalling and suspect that this is the source), but I'm not sure how to address this.

Do I use caulk.. or something with the consistency of tar.. or something like mortar for bricks..?

Some photos here:

Asked By Jon Haque | Oct 22 14
2 Answers

Insulation in old home repair

Hello, I own a 1931 home. I had a window leak it damaged the plaster on an interior wall, roughly a 2'x5' section. Behind the plaster and lath was a later of loose insulation and behind that bound newspaper. Much of the newspaper was rotted, as was a section of the wood behind it. The wood backed the exterior stucco. I removed the newspaper and wood. I am unable to replace the wood that backed the stucco.Instead and added 1" rigid foam.

Here's my question: What do I use next to insulate before I put on the sheetrock, faced or unfaced fiberglass...or something else? I live in Minneapolis.

Asked By Tom Ives | Oct 21 14
4 Answers

Insulation dew points and archaic insulation

I have a couple of questions, both somewhat academic since there may be little to do about them.

I live in a 1938 1.5 story (Cape-style) house in St. Paul, zone 6. About 3 years ago the shoddily-added back porch was falling apart and the roof shingles were shot , so I tackled both in one, replacing the back of the house with a new addition, and re-roofing the entire house using this "cold roof" article in JLC as a model (in short, adds 3" XPS foam plus 1-1/2" air gap above the original roof): http://www.jlconline.com/rooftop-accessories/retrofitting-an-insulated-c...

Asked By Graham Allan | Oct 20 14
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