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What’s Wrong With This Picture?

GBA Editor | Posted in General Questions on

Here’s a place to post pictures that show building practices that violate the laws of nature, building science, good practice, common sense or any combination thereof.

I’ll start off with a few from my extensive collection. See if you can describe the mistake. Correct answers will earn you good karma (and maybe some “Helpful” points).

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Replies

  1. Riversong | | #1

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  2. Riversong | | #2

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  3. Riversong | | #3

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  4. Riversong | | #4

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  5. Riversong | | #5

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  6. Riversong | | #6

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  7. Riversong | | #7

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  8. 2tePuaao2B | | #8

    I follow a bunch of licensed MD Home Improvement contractors.
    If it ain't broke...don't fix it !
    My favorite is the structural foam repair.

    Are you sure you wanna go here??

  9. 2yKH8TUu6N | | #9

    1. The wrap is not flat against the sheathing, creating a condensation trap?
    2. Flashing continuity has been comprimised?
    3. Shouldn't the siding cover the metal roof?
    4. If I was an insect, thats where I'd be. Penetration sealing notwithstanding.
    5. Looks like caulking. Shouldn't that be framed out at an angle to shed water? Looks like water could pool up on that window.
    6. I believe the drop edge should go over the wood.
    7. Whats wrong with add-on flashing? Just Josh'n ya!

    Answers from a rookie

  10. 2tePuaao2B | | #10

    Open web at top block course the favorite here~ client was wondering where all the water was coming from ////\\
    You really have to click on these and enlarge them for the full effect.

  11. Riversong | | #11

    1. The wrap is not flat against the sheathing, creating a condensation trap?

    NO, bigger problem than that.

    2. Flashing continuity has been comprimised?

    You could put it that way, but what's missing?

    3. Shouldn't the siding cover the metal roof?

    Siding not yet replaced, but there's another issue.

    4. If I was an insect, thats where I'd be. Penetration sealing notwithstanding.

    What's missing here?

    5. Looks like caulking. Shouldn't that be framed out at an angle to shed water? Looks like water could pool up on that window.

    Yes, and yes. A bay window with no bottom bracing (so it sagged), and no roof (pooled water and leaked).

    6. I believe the drop edge should go over the wood.

    Yup (drip edge, that is) and so should the rake flashing (whatever that's doing there) and the shingles extend over the rake trim.

    7. Whats wrong with add-on flashing? Just Josh'n ya!

    Hell of a repair job - also no cricket about chimney (but you can't see that in this picture) - long-term slow leak into insulation and drywall below.

  12. Riversong | | #12

    Hey, Roy, what's that drywall bucket doing buried in the ground? Is that a drywell for the water leaking into the CMU cores?

  13. Expert Member
    CARL SEVILLE | | #13

    Robert, it looks like you have a problem with incompetent flashing details. Why are you so picky? Just live and let rot.

  14. mike eliason | | #14

    1. - the window flashing is going to drip down behind the shingles. that's awesome.

  15. 2tePuaao2B | | #15

    Answer for #1~ Though I've never used this stuff, it would seem to me that the flaps (slits) on the strip at the roof line should be installed lower so that they could be weaved under the shingle coursing. Rather than being install over the window flange tape and flashing.
    Thats not a bucket Robert , it's a big checker~ for checkin things out. You mean you don't have one of these in your tool box !!

  16. homedesign | | #16

    Typical North Texas Construction

  17. homedesign | | #17

    What Thermal Bridge?
    and No ... there is not any outsulation

  18. rustyjames | | #18

    2. Flashing continuity has been comprimised?
    You could put it that way, but what's missing?

    Reglet

  19. rustyjames | | #19

    3. Shouldn't the siding cover the metal roof?

    Siding not yet replaced, but there's another issue.

    Standing seam panels should have been panned up higher. Counter flashing should be installed over the panned edges, and should be made of the same material as roofing panels, not copper (Galvanic corrosion potential). Can't tell from the photo if the copper flashing is tucked up under the siding a least 2" as it should be.

  20. Riversong | | #20

    Picture #2:

    Yes, reglet or counterflashing bedded in mortar joints.

  21. Riversong | | #21

    RustyJames,

    Right again. Except the "counterflashing" is bituthene lapped from sheathing boards to roof boards under metal roof pans.

    Either similar metal counterflashing or some other compatible flashing can be used as long as the vertical leg extends up several inches under the siding. The problem with using metal flashing at this point is that the roof pans weren't turned up far enough to prevent wind-blown rain from penetrating.

    I used more Grace butyl tape to complete someone else's job. This was just one of many repairs I had to make to this new standing seam roof after the contractor refused to do any more repairs to his inadequate and incomplete job.

  22. Riversong | | #22

    The roofing contractor also had a slight leak through the 3" plumbing vent which he tried to fix twice. And then the first snow tried to shear off the pipe. The reason it had been leaking was because he used a 4" roof boot for a 3" pipe.

  23. 2tePuaao2B | | #23

    John, are those really driveways or have they been altered?

  24. homedesign | | #24

    Moving to Funny Construction Photo Thread

  25. homedesign | | #25

    Good Topic Robert

  26. homedesign | | #26

    Moving to Funny Construction Photo Thread

  27. homedesign | | #27

    Moving to Funny Construction Photo Thread

  28. 2tePuaao2B | | #28

    .

  29. Riversong | | #29

    Now here's case of unintended consequences with a positive spin.

    There's nothing as charming on a cabin in the woods of snow country than icicles dangling from the roof. But we all know how problematic ice dams can be (and I do get an occasional leak from these).

    But, since I have to provide my winter wash water by melting snow on my woodstove, and since a foot of snow might melt down to one inch of water, it's far more effective to let my roof pre-process that snow into ice which melts to 90% of it's volume in water.

    P.S. I also pre-heat my cordwood before putting it in the wood stove. It allows it to burn more efficiently.

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