0 Helpful?

Metal Roofing Over Purlins

What is the proper roof assembly for a metal roof (such as Fabral Grandrib 3, http://www.fabral.com/residential.php#standingseam) which is screwed to 2x4 purlins 2' O.C., and covers a vented house attic in a cold climate? In particular I'm wondering if any sort of secondary moisture barrier, like felt paper, is needed between the metal and the purlins? I understand felt paper is recommended when metal roofing is applied over plywood or OSB.

Asked by Jack Woolfe
Posted May 9, 2011 10:10 PM ET


4 Answers

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.

A layer of #30 asphalt felt or rubberized membrane (Ice & Water Shield) is installed between the roof sheathing and the purlins. You don't need an additional layer of felt on top of the purlins (fortunately, since it would get ripped immediately).

Answered by Martin Holladay
Posted May 10, 2011 6:07 AM ET


I guess I didn't make it clear that I was thinking of not using any sheathing, just the purlins nailed directly to the rafters. I know this type of construction is used in unheated utility buildings, but I'm wondering if there would be a problem with this type of construction in a house?

If I did use sheathing with no purlins is it okay to use 1/2" OSB on 2' o.c. rafters, with the asphalt felt, or is a thicker OSB or plywood recommended? I expect 3' snow loads most winters, though with even a 3:12 pitch a metal roof will slowly shed snow.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Answered by Jack Woolfe
Posted May 10, 2011 8:12 AM ET


I don't recommend your technique on anything but sheds and barns. Although you could save some money with your technique compared to using a full layer of sheathing, you'd be better off doing it the right way.

If you go ahead with your method, it's clear that the sloped sections of your roof can't be insulated.

Answered by Martin Holladay
Posted May 10, 2011 9:41 AM ET


In the old days we used to do 5-V metal roofs on 2x4 purlins with lead-headed roofing nails and no sheathing. I'll never forget seeing wind-blown snow a quarter to a half inch thick on the attic insulation after one storm.

I would recommend a minimum 5/8" plywood with 30 lb felt under the steel to provide a good base for the screws.

The best system, as Martin alluded to above, is 1/2" OSB with 30 lb felt and then 1x4 purlins to allow an air gap between the felt and the bottom of the steel and to hold the roofing screws to attach the steel. 1/2" OSB alone won't hold the screws securely in the long run.

Answered by Michael Chandler
Posted May 11, 2011 10:23 PM ET

Other Questions in General questions

Is there any way around putting a heat source in every bedroom?

In Building Code Questions | Asked by Alyssa Hoyt | Feb 4, 16

Vapor Permeance of thick foam sheathing and board seams

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked by Sash057 | Jun 18, 18

Plumbing too close to edge of slab

In Project management | Asked by Hugh Stearns | Jun 18, 18

HVAC duct size versus grille size

In Mechanicals | Asked by Richt1022 | Jun 18, 18

Exterior vs Interior blinds

In Mechanicals | Asked by Trevor Lambert | Jun 18, 18
Register for a free account and join the conversation

Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!