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1 Answer

Options to rectify attic system

I'm in a 1930's 2 story Colonial in zone 5 (greater Boston area). I have a furnace in my unconditioned attic, along with all of the ducting, which is leaky and has very little insulation. The attic floor is also filled with insulation gaps and air leaks. This appears to be absolutely awful for ice dam formation, so I'm trying to rectify the situation. I'd like to be energy efficient, but I'm worried much more about the risk of major damage from the warm roof in winter. I've put a thermometer up there, and when the furnace kicks in, it gets close to 60F when it's ~25F outside.

Asked By Mike S | Jan 20 17
1 Answer

Rental Wall

Hello, I've been digging through the wealth of information here at GBA and have gotten some really good ideas and a much better understanding of theory that is really helpful, but I have a few questions. Im making plans to build a simple 16x30 1.5 story cabin, with balloon framed 12ft walls and 12/12 roof in Homer, AK, an oceanfront town which is in zone 7 from what I can find. I want to build it to be energy efficient and tight, but not extreme. The plan is for it to be a rental, so durability is the biggest concern.

Asked By Aaron Bonnett | Jan 21 17
6 Answers

Does anyone know if there is a manufacturer that makes an energy efficient, dual HVAC/ ventilation system that would satisfy both of my needs and eliminate the need for 2 duct systems?

I'm planning a moderate size home in SoCal in a semi-desert climate with adequate thermal mass. The home will have a tight envelope and my understanding is that some sort of ventilation system with separate duct work is required.

I was planning on an air-source heat pump to meet heating and cooling needs, but this will only be used in the summer and winter months mostly.

Asked By Paul Minotto | Jan 20 17
0 Answers

Product for permeable lawn/grass instead of concrete paving

Seeking your advice on which is the best among that permeable products that allow you to have a lawn in an area that receives residential vehicular traffic and would normally be paved with concrete.

Asked By c l | Jan 20 17
8 Answers

Could you moderate first posts to stop the flood of spam?

Recently, I haven't been reading the Q&A on GBA, because it's always full of spam. Could I suggest that you moderate the first several posts by any non GBA Pro user who hasn't posted before? The idea being that you either have to pay for a subscription or post three moderated and approved posts before you get unfettered access to the forums.

Asked By John Ranson | Jan 19 17
0 Answers

Northern Michigan un vented, un air conditioned Cabin roof design

Northern Michigan un vented, un air conditioned Cabin roof design.
After reading several articles, opinions and Blogs I have a better understanding of the moisture vapors that exist and the problems they can create in walls and especially the roof. But I’m a little unsure of the proper design and construction for my great lakes, shore line cabin roof design. I have detailed my current plan below. Could please you give input as to where my design plan is OK or deficient in proper vapor management for this environment and situation.

Asked By mike bard | Jan 20 17
3 Answers

Flashing tape for roof decking

We build houses for a Habitat for Humanity affiliate in a hurricane prone area along the Texas Gulf coast.
At a program on the FORTIFIED building certification, we saw something that intrigued us. They suggested taping the seams of the roof decking. This would prevent water damage in the event that the shingles were blown off in a wind storm. We started using such materials on the last few houses.

Asked By Steve Young | Jan 19 17
7 Answers

Need 2 foot square of vapor barrier

I'm planning to take out the 50s era milk chute in our house tomorrow. This will leave me with a whole between 12-20 inches square. I'll put plywood of the same thickness and vinyl siding.

I'm fine on the vinyl siding and sheathing, plus a piece of fiberglass and then drywall. For all I have pieces of leftovers or can buy in small quantities.

I'm stuck on what goes between vinyl and sheathing. I don't want to buy a huge roll of tyvek for such a small area. I need this for tomorrow, day after at the latest.

Ideas? Suggestions? Thanks!

Asked By Jeremy M | Jan 20 17
3 Answers

Basement Insulation Question

Hello:

I'm building a house in Zone 5 (southern CT). The house will have a full basement with spray on waterproofing. There is no sub-slab foam. The builder budgeted for 2" of XPS (with dimpled moisture facing) on the sub-grade exterior of the foundation walls, but NOT the above grade portions. There will be a footing drain running to daylight and a shed water system to catch storm water running off of our house (2 foot overhangs; no gutters). The soil is sandy loam and drains well.

Asked By Adam S | Jan 20 17
1 Answer

Mini-split v Package Unit Humidity Control; Sizing and Configuration

I have a 1920's house in Tallahassee, Florida - 2x4 frame construction with shiplap siding, no vapor barrier or insulation except in the attic and one wall that was installed later (originally a screened in porch), and a fair number of windows. I have sealed the floor and walls of the dirt crawlspace using heavy plastic with vapor-barrier tape at the seams, but there is still appreciable air flow between the foundation wall and the girders. The main floor is ~1,600 sq. ft.; approximately ~600 sq. ft. of the attic has been finished into a bedroom and bath.

Asked By Ellery Sedgwick | Jan 20 17
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