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16 Answers

Fresh air distribution for hydronically heated house?

Currently have a leaky hydronically-heated house.

I plan on removing the siding, installing blueskin VP peel-and-stick, then 2 layers of Roxul R6 ComfortBoard IS from the roof right down to the footings.

Because this should really improve the air leakage, how should I get fresh air in/out of the house to control humidity / air quality / etc?

Do people run a set of air ducts throughout the house from a HRV?

One of the appeals of using hydronic heating is that sound / dust transmission is significantly reduced.

What would you recommend??

Thanks!
.../j

Asked By John Charlesworth | Mar 26 15
5 Answers

Cold climate (6) standing seam metal roof leak

I have concerns my entire roof is leaking due to improper detailing of my standing seam roof. I also think this discussion could help others who might be thinking of a standing seam metal roof. They are not what they're all cracked up to be. Please look at enclosed photos.

Some details:
I have a shed roof (Structure are I-Joists) with a 3 1/4: 12 pitch. R-60 insulation in cathedral ceiling--"flash and batt." "Flash" is 4-6" closed-cell polyurethane spray foam. Hot roof: Fully Zip taped, Zip sheathing and GAF underlayment. And finally: 1" single-lock standing seam Galvalume.

Asked By David Metzger | Mar 28 15
5 Answers

New Home buyer,Metal Roof in Maine With No Sheathing? Please Help

Hello all,

I am a first time home buyer and looking into buying a new home. My wife and I have found the perfect home here in Maine, but found out today that the metal roof was attached directly to the perlins. I know typically there is supposed to be sheathing and a vapor barrier in between. I have found information on both sides of the argument, which have led me here. Is no sheathing adequate? How will it affect my energy use? and will it be a condensation issue? Is this ok for a cold climate here in Maine?

Asked By dimitrios maniatakos | Mar 28 15
4 Answers

Basement wall fire blocking material?

Martin's basement wall insulation article is a classic that I constantly refer to when planning my basement renovation. The main thing missing from the equation, however, is fire blocking. As I understand it, fire blocking generally needs to penetrate through any foam insulation all the way to the concrete. This presents issues with thermal bridging as well as compromising the air barrier and vapor retarder layers that the foam provides. What's the least bad choice? Mineral wool? Pressure treated lumber? Paperless gypsum board?

Asked By Nick Welch | Feb 6 15
0 Answers

Step-By-Step Solutions Of World Of Tanks Gold Cheats Download

Considering Rapid Plans Of World Of Tanks Gold Hack Xbox 360

Asked By Rhea Jay | Mar 29 15
6 Answers

I need assistance with window/door install with 4" foam

I am looking for some direction on installing windows and doors. I have 4" exterior EPS on a 2x6 walls

The current plan is to build 5/8" plywood boxes (I believe they are called Dewey boxes) to get the nail fin of the window to the same plane as the furring strips that the foam and the siding will be attached to.
I am sure its been covered but searching Dewey box got me 0 results so I wonder if someone could point me in the right direction?

Thanks
Tim (Kenora ON Canada zone 7)

Asked By tim brown | Mar 28 15
2 Answers

How to insulate a condo concrete floor?

My daughter bought a condo in a highrise concrete structure. This past winter the floors have been cold even though the floor is the ceiling of a heated garage (55F) below. The shower floor next to an outer wall was 37F, outside temp was 12F. How can we insulate the shower and bathroom floor? The floor is ceramic tile.
We may even consider insulating the entire condo.

Asked By NORM DITTER | Mar 29 15
0 Answers

Interior plywood for earthquake areas, can replace vapor retarder?

We are renovating a 1925 Pacific Northwest house, Everett WA, right on the coast. It is earthquake territory here. So it would be good to keep this house up through any quakes we may get, when it can be relatively easily done. We have double studded the kitchen wall now. Making it 8" deep. The north wall became 9" deep. Now we are in low need of any vapor retarder for our climate I understand, zone 4C. Interior air barrier never hurts BUT, and here is my question... Would interior plywood sheathing be a good choice to replace the air barrier, caulking the seams.

Asked By Jan Verschuren | Mar 29 15
3 Answers

Review of insulation/air sealing retrofit plan...

For a cathedral ceiling, still a popular subject of concern I see. I have gotten advice before and used this site to increase my understanding of many building issues. The ceiling currently, from the inside, has V-groove pine boards, then a 12" kraft faced fiberglass batt, no air sealing. There is a vent channel above the fiberglass of unknown thickness and quality (I ran into the builder and asked if it was 2", and he replied "probably less"). The decking is 3/4" OSB, asphalt shingles above (now at 25 years).

Asked By Howard Gentler | Mar 28 15
3 Answers

GSHP comparison calculator?

I'm looking for an online tool where I can plug in some basic figures such as EER and COP and compare cost/benefit of two ground source heat pumps. Any ideas? Thanks

Asked By C. Maglio | Mar 28 15
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