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5 Answers

Insulating condo walls

Condo walls don't have insulation so smells and airborne sounds travel easily between units. There are gas appliances so can't get it too tight. However if there is a leak in one unit, you know pretty quickly. Condo in zone 4a. What is the best insulation for the walls to remedy this situation? Dense pack cellulose? JM Spider dense pack insulation? Thanks.

Asked By Sam York | Aug 3 15
5 Answers

Window sizes and shapes?

Is there any rhyme or reason to window sizes and shapes? I know that bedrooms have minimum width, and area along with a maximum height above floor level for egress but other than those requirements what determines how many and how big? For "day-lighting" what ratio of window area to room area is minimum or recommended? Reason I ask: I'd like to minimize the window area on the North, East and West while maximizing South facing windows which will have appropriate overhangs.

Asked By Jerry Liebler | Aug 2 15
3 Answers

Exterior rigid foam plus celluose rafter insulation questions

I have a difficult-to-insulate second floor with as-yet uninsulated side attic kneewalls and an insulated attic above most of the living space. The rest of the 1917 house has gotten lots of energy upgrades: minisplits instead of 80 y.o. furnace, 3 inches of foam under siding, etc. It's just the attic left.

Asked By arthur strum | Nov 11 14
0 Answers

best type of windows to use and brand

Hello all have question I am building a new home out side of Philadelphia zone 4a/5a and the home is a more contemporary style was thing of using fiberglass windows , can any one recommend different window brands to me and what type of windows I was looking at casement and picture windows , since the home is more contemporary there will be a lot of windows I do not know if in my area it makes sense to use triple glazed windows , the major brands in the area are Marvin , Anderson, Pella , from what I have found out Marvin is the only one that makes an all fiberglass window which is what i want

Asked By boris rubinstein | Aug 3 15
8 Answers

How can I upgrade the insulation in my walls?

Walls in my mobile home only have R-10
All values:
walls U .097 R-10.3
ceiling U .038 R-26.3
Floor U .048 R-20.8

I live in a mobile home designed for New Orleans (Katrina, FEMA trailer) yet I live in northeast Maryland (Elkton, MD). The minimum for new construction (based on my zip code) is R-13 and EnergyStar dictates R-20 (15 cavity + 5 sheathing).

Asked By Vincent Dipietro | Jul 20 15
4 Answers

Feedback on 2x8 exterior walls with 2x4 studs to limit thermal bridging

I live in Eastern Washington, Zone 5 A. 100 degrees in the summer to zero in winter with 1-3 ft of snow. I will hopefully be building a home this summer, 2016. I originally looked at SIPs but am convinced that if they are not installed perfectly I may end up with moisture problems later on. My brother suggested 2 X 8 top and bottom plates with 2 X 4 studs, (1/2 inch gap between them to break the thermal bridging), and blown cellulose insulation. Then two separate pieces of 1 inch ridgid foam insulation on the outside.

Asked By Thomas Flanagan | Jul 28 15
1 Answer

Zone 7 wall help - 2" foam exterior, 3/4" plywood to interior - need vapor retarder?

Need help on this wall. Live in far northern MN. Talked with the local building inspector and found out that he is insisting on me using an interior vapor retarder (class II) on a high-r wall that I would like to use. After 25+ years in the window/door industry and seeing the damage that a "tight" wall can do, I am trying to avoid this. Any help would be much appreciated/

Here's the rundown of the wall construction.....exterior to interior

* House wrap
* 2" insulated sheathing (XPS, etc.)
* 2x6 studs
* Cellulose fill insulation

Asked By brett mattson | Aug 3 15
7 Answers

Is my uninsulated garage making my house hot?

I have an attached uninsulated garage with its own attic, is that why it is so hot in my Austin, TX house?

Asked By K C | Jul 16 15
4 Answers

Pex plumbing retrofit + crawlspace insulation

Hi, I live in an older (1920's?) single story 1200 sf wood frame house on a post & pier foundation; small rural town in far northern coastal CA. The water table is high in the winter & indeed can have standing water of several inches around and under the house for short periods of time in non-drought years (and, yes, I've considered a sump pump, but nowhere to pump the water to that wouldn't flow back or, if not, compromise my neighbors property/dwellings).

Asked By Barbara Keating | Aug 2 15
1 Answer

Open-cell foam in an old home

We just purchased an 100+ yr old home that has been updated with new plumbing, wiring, and HVac units. There is a new metal roof on the home. There is an area over one of the bedrooms upstairs that is inaccessible for insulation. The room is hotter than the others. We can get some insulation blown in the area. We are trying to decide between open cell foam for the remaining attic or more regular fiberglass insulation. I've read a lot about open cell foam. My concerns are:
1) the area that can't be accessed. Will this let in moisture and cause a problem

Asked By Ashlee Melendez | Aug 2 15
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