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7 Answers

Detail for stone veneer

I am looking for a wall framing detail that includes a stone veneer face over 1" ridged insulation. It seems to me that after a rain screen detail over the rigid, the next surface would be OSB or plywood that metal lath would be adhered for applying the stone veneer? So the assembly would be 2x6 stud wall, OSB, WRB, 1" ridged insulation, rain screen (lath, Coravent, etc), 1/2" plywood, metal lath, stone veneer.

Asked By Robert Holland | Nov 16 14
6 Answers

Home energy monitoring programs

I am building a net zero energy home to Passive House standards in the Seattle area. In addition to having it be as efficient as possible, my goals were to use renewable materials (no foam), eliminate thermal bridging. have a protected air-barrier and to keep the OSB warm. I'm using dense packed cellulose in the R-50 walls and R-85 roof (cathedral ceiling with parallel chord trusses). The wall assembly is a double stud system with an inner 2x6 load bearing wall and an outer 2x4 wall.

Asked By Gerald Blycker | Nov 21 14
7 Answers

Insulating an uninsulated Cape-style home (cathedral/knee)

Hi all, new member here; new homeowner too.

Asked By Nathan Schulte | Nov 20 14
7 Answers

Polyiso on interior

Martin/Dana

Living in the Bellingham area north of Seattle it can get cold. The house was heated by propane, it was a cost that was hard to get hold of especially with some of the design of the house. (high ceiling)

I set out to improve the insulation of the home taking bits and pieces off the internet as to the techniques available these days.

I am a bit "OCD" now that the living room is for the most part done "I have some hidden inward worries". I wonder if I am trapping moisture inside my walls having used the foilfaced polyiso just behind the sheetrock.

Asked By William Lucrisia | Nov 21 14
7 Answers

Plumbing vents exiting ridge cap

Can't seem to find anything in the code, easily missed though. I have a customer who wants a metal roof installed however they have had bad experiences with pipe flashings through the roof and don't like the look of them. While I don't care for the pipe boots, (for metal roofing), appearance they seem to work well.

Anyway, to the question... Is there anything code or common sense wise that says vents couldn't go through the ridge cap? I know it wouldn't look as good but, would limit water flowing over them.

Asked By RMills Miller | Nov 21 14
3 Answers

Has anyone found a window that meets passive house standards and also carries an ASTM impact rating for the 110 mph zone?

So far the only thing I find that's close is from Dynamic.

Asked By Carole Hunter | Nov 20 14
2 Answers

Blower door testing by floor or room?

Hello,

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 21 14
2 Answers

Dense packing an eyebrow roof

I have a small eyebrow roof below a shed dormer on the back of my cape style house. The dormer runs for about 25 feet across the back of the house. The roof is attached to the wall studs instead of using the proper construction which calls for the wall to be sheathed first and then the eyebrow rafters attached to a ledger board across the sheathing. I have batt insulation in the wall that is exposed to the roof and to the soffit vents that are cut into the eave below the eyebrow.

Asked By Michael Lee | Nov 21 14
10 Answers

Options for garage heat

I would like opinions regarding options for heating a garage. I know, I know, "Why the H@!! are you heating a garage?" will come to mind for many of you. Others will agree that it saves on car repair costs, improves longevity, and allows for storage of "perishables" such as paint cans, bulk canned garden vegetables, and other things wife understandably does not want in house.

Here are the pertinent factors shaping the decision:
* Super-insulated house, Manual J heat load calc gives 12,400 BTU/h (3.6 kW) peak heating requirement (for garage alone)

Asked By Kent Jeffery | Nov 20 14
4 Answers

Is this ridiculous?

We live in a 1600 sqft 2 level end unit rowhouse with structural historic masonry walls from the 1890s.

Housing is really expensive where we live, figure between $400-500 per square foot, so we're trying to balance efficiency & comfort with sacrifices of this valuable square footage. We have a crawl space and attic, and intend to condition both so we can run ductwork without replacing the joists on the second floor.

Asked By Mike Madowitz | Nov 21 14
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