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5 Answers

Hello,
The attached file shows a wall design concept for a new house build near Minneapolis, Mn. I'm trying to design a wall that is both easy to build and has good performance.

Asked By Karl Overn | Apr 20 14
0 Answers

is there a ballpark rule of thumb that spans different regions for the mean monthly sunshine or possible percent sunshine that is conducive to a favourable result in PHPP?

Asked By erik olofsson | Apr 20 14
4 Answers

I have a recurring question / situation that comes up in my east central MN location (6b-7a border). There are many 1970's homes undergoing remodeling and looking to add insulation for improved comfort and energy effciency. Miost common construction is drywall, kraft faced R13, 2x4 walls, 3/4" Bildrite (asphalt fiberboard sheathing).

Asked By Troy Tvedt | Apr 17 14
3 Answers

All,

I'm a licensed GC designing an addition to my personal residence which we built in the late 80s. The original house was built with 2x6 studs and might very well have been the first house built in NC with a sealed crawl space. (I gave my building inspector a copy of a sealed crawl space article by the TVA, and he OK'd the sealed crawl space.)

I would greatly appreciate some input on a couple aspects of the design.

Thanks,

Bill

Project synopsis:

Asked By Bill Daugherty | Apr 20 14
6 Answers

I am renovating my house, installing solar panels and getting rid of my gas forced hot air system and replacing with mini-splits (very small home < 1000 sq feet)
I would like to install an energy efficient heating system in the bathroom (about 6' x 8') as I'm not sure the heat will effectively get there, plus I like to have a separate zone for the bath for the usual reasons. i had thought about electric radiant heat in the floor but have heard that can be quite an energy drain.
Do people have a suggestion for a very small heating unit for this purpose?
Thanks!
Maggie

Asked By maggie wilbur | Apr 19 14
43 Answers

In another thread, my choice for HVAC was appropriately questioned. The system seems inordinately complex, costly, and convoluted. At least, on the surface. But digging deeper, the reasoning behind the design becomes clear. But, does that make it right? Is this the best HVAC design, or is it redundant and wasteful?

Here are the pertinents:
• Climate Zone 6
• 2700 sq. ft. finished space in story-and-a-half (bungalow style) house
• 2000 sq. ft. unfinished basement (future completion for aging parents)
• 4 Bdrm, 3 ½ bath house
• Tight, highly insulated home

Asked By Kent Jeffery | Apr 16 14
1 Answer

Are the ductless minis that utilize a cassette unit vs a wall unit, less efficient?
Are there any drawbacks to a cassette unit over a wall mounted unit?
Lastly, can a cassette unit be mounted on a wall or is that not a good idea?

Asked By Peter L | Apr 19 14
1 Answer

Hey folks, been reading the site for a while during our planning process and its time to start asking some questions.

Asked By Erik Schmitt | Apr 19 14
2 Answers

Thanks for any suggesWhat is a good old bathroom exterior wall progression method (1947 home in Edmonton, Alberta) ?

From outside to inside: cedar siding, then 2X6 Douglas Fir planks, 12" studs.

What would be a good insulation choice?

What would be a good baker board choice?

What would be a good drywall choice?

Should a vapor barrier be used?

Will also be installing a bathroom fan- horizontal exhausting through exterior wall due to possible vermiculite/asbestos in attic. What would be the specs for this? It is difficult to find information for this unusual location.

Asked By Lisa MArtin | Apr 15 14
7 Answers

In building a home in zone 4 (western NC), I am interested in determining the better way to go to create an effective air barrier:

Outside in:

Option 1: Hardie, 1 x 4 Furring for 3/4" Rainscreen Gap, 2" Roxul ComfortBoard IS, #30 Felt, 1/2" MgO Sheathing, 2 x 6 Stud Wall with 5 1/2" of Roxul ComfortBatt in the Cavities, 1/2" Mgo Wall Board using the Airtight Drywall Approach

Asked By Stacey Owens | Apr 17 14
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