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0 Answers

What insulation type and configuration for old Victorian would work best

I have a house, climate zone 5 (southwest PA) that is gutted to the studs. True 2x4 balloon construction. I have put on a new roof which I intend to put closed cell foam. But on the exterior walls, I'm trying to determine best course for insulation. So I have the studs, 1x8 sheathing that runs diagonally foundation to roof line. Covering that is old felt paper, then 1" wood dutch lap siding. On top of that 1" foam board, fairly dense, with a dense cardboard and shiny aluminum side facing outward, then vinyl siding nailed into that. The house is heated with a boiler and steam radiators.

Asked By Robert Semenko | Aug 29 16
3 Answers

I have a half vault ceiling with 3 vertical skylights at the peaks. It was condensating alot so we had the blown insulation stuffed between in between the ceiling joists from soffit. There is no ridge vent as its cut off at the windows. Even after replaci

The skylights windows are single pane and the rising sun hits them quickly. The ceiling surface reads 100 degrees at this during the day

Asked By Ben McMillan | Aug 28 16
1 Answer

Questions about one inline exhaust fan serving two bathrooms

Hi all,

My floorplan has two bathrooms very close to each other, and I am planning to use a single inline fan to cover both exhaust jobs. Here are the details...

Asked By Clay Whitenack | Aug 28 16
5 Answers

I live in an 1890 Victorian in Southern Pennsylvania, heated by oil. While I love radiators, I hate using fossil fuels! Is there a way to use green technology to use less oil? My methods to date have been uncomfortable - installing a wood stove,

Is there a way of boosting the boiler with green energy? Would geothermal help? I'm newly divorced and ignorant about systems!
Thanks, Susan

Asked By Susan Hanway | Aug 28 16
74 Answers

Two condensation questions

I have a newly foamed attic with open-cell foam (average 8 inches or so with rafters covered) and a brand new AC unit with furnace. I had thought that lowering the temperature of the attic would take away the need for insulation on the condensate drain line, but it is still sweating. The upstairs temperature is in the 75 degree range in the Attic is in the 81 degree range, but the Attic humidity has gone from being in the thirties or forties when it was a vented attic to being about 70% now, so I guess the dew point is still high enough to necessitate insulating the drain line.

Asked By John Sexton | Aug 7 16
2 Answers

Exterior walls

Zone 5a, Indianapolis
Single story ranch with slab on grade.
4 inch exterior walls
Current construction:
North facing exterior is stone (no weep holes) then 1/2 space then particle board then 2x4 framing with unfaced fiberglass batt then moisture shield ( guessing 3-4 mill regular clear plastic) then 1/2 in dry wall.
All other exterior walls are vinyl siding then particle board then 2x4 framing with unfaced fiberglass batting then moisture shield ( guessing 3-4 mill plastic) then 1/2 in dry wall.

Asked By Edward Kramer | Aug 28 16
6 Answers

How to grout concrete block wall?

My foundation stem wall for a raised-floor house is four courses high, made of 8x8x16 concrete blocks with #4 vertical rebars every 4 feet and a #5 rebar in the bond beam top course. I've installed grout stop over the unreinforced vertical cells. After two days of searching, I haven't found any step-by-step instructions on how to grout the reinforced cores and the bond beam, but I have gleaned a few tips to supplement what seems fairly obvious about the procedure. Does the following overlook anything important?

Asked By Jeff Cooper | Aug 27 16
4 Answers

Is tile acceptable on a bathroom exterior wall with foam?

I'd like to build using the REMOTE method. However, I see articles stating that walls with exterior foam board must dry to the inside. I'm interpreting this to mean that the interior of the walls must be permeable.
My bathrooms both contain an exterior wall. I'd like to build a fully tiled bathroom but I don't know if it's a good idea to tile the exterior wall. I believe that tile is not very permeable so the wall couldn't dry to the inside.
Does anyone have an answer to this dilemma?

Asked By Drew Baden | Aug 28 16
6 Answers

Water between the bottom of the window and rough opening?

Building a home in zone 4A and we done with framing and setting the windows and house wrap. The windows have been flashed and the house wrap is taped to the window on all 4 sides.

This morning, the builder needed to take a window out, and when he did he noticed a lot of water under the window between the window and the rough opening. He said it was a lot of water.

Asked By Clay Whitenack | Aug 25 16
3 Answers

Insulating stone and mortar

I read the excellent articles on insulating down in the basement. Very helpful as we prepare to finish the space. Our foundation is stone and mortar and the area we are finishing is all above grade and dry. Without your help we would likely have insulated the walls with fiberglass batts. The ceiling (underside of the first floor) was already insulated with fiberglass including stuffing the cavity at the rim joist. I now know I have to go with foam and make this airtight. Here's my question:

Asked By Michael Groarke | Aug 28 16
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