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6 Answers

Hydronic Heating System Hydraulic Buffer Tank vs Hydraulic Seperator

This question might be more appropriate in a plumbing forum but I have had such great and thoughtful responses in the GBA forums I look to here first. This is also a hydronic heating mainstream topic which should be appropriate for GBA.

Asked By Roger Smith | Feb 26 17
4 Answers

Load Specs- understanding manufacturer's fastener spec

Hello again GBAer's

I'm having trouble interpreting a load spec for a Simpson fastener (SDWS221000DB). Looking at a table that addresses my specific application (furring strip on 6" of exterior board foam insulation, 16" studs), the heading of the table reads:

"Maximum Allowable Cladding Weight to be Supported (psf)"

This seems fairly clear, except doesn't 'psf' refer to a _pressure_? But this wouldn't make much sense.

Asked By Gerald Pehl | Feb 26 17
2 Answers

Insulation for finishing my basement

Hello all,

Asked By abtesnow | Feb 27 17
11 Answers

Follow up question re: basement subfloor (climate zone 7a)

A couple of weeks ago I asked a variety of questions pertaining to my livable space basement retrofit for a 1974 home in climate zone 7a. Recap: there is no exterior foundation or under slab insulation, etc. No water penetration issues into the interior but part of the basement has shown recurring efflorescence and some spalling in a few places.

Asked By user-6759891 | Feb 24 17
4 Answers

How to get notifications from comments

Hello GBA.

I'm getting notifications of comments to questions that I ask, but I'd also like to get notifications when from _other_ threads, especially threads that I comment on.

Is there a way to do that?

Thanks in advance!

Asked By Gerald Pehl | Feb 19 17
19 Answers

Installing LP Smartside over foam and 24 inch centers

We’re building a new home (SW Virginia) with 2x6 studs on 24 inch centers. We had hoped to use 1.5 to 2 inches of EPS rigid foam to the exterior of the sheathing, then 3/4 inch x 4 inch plywood furring strips, then LP Smartside lap siding. We knew we had to use the 76 series Smartside product for the 24 inch centers. Then I discovered that LP’s installation instructions specify 1.5 inch x 3.5 inch furring strips for foam greater than 1 inch in thickness, so I guess that would basically mean a 2 x 4 stud for every 2x6 stud in the wall.

Asked By William Costello | Feb 17 17
6 Answers

Casement windows?

I'm looking for highly efficient triple glazed windows with a high solar heat gain coefficient for use on the south side of a new construction home in Massachusetts (Climate Zone 5). I like Schuco windows, however, I am looking to compare with a window that performs similarly but doesn't open into the living space. Any suggestions?

Asked By user-6776655 | Feb 26 17
4 Answers

Heating and insulating for a wide interior temperature swing

I'm planning out my garage, which will be mostly for cars and storage. I may install a small mini-split or PTAC to keep the garage above freezing, and to occasionally cool the building if I'm working in it in the summer.

I've got a couple questions:

Is there any green motivation for insulating the building beyond what fits in the stud-bays (2x6 likely), given that I'm letting the temperature swing widely?

Is there any issue with operating a mini-split with a 40F building temperature?

Are there any vapor management concerns for a building that has wide interior temperature swings?

Asked By John Ranson | Feb 26 17
15 Answers

Air conditioning for a radiant heated home?

We're planning a new two-story house build in Ottawa, Ontario, probably equivalent to zone 6/7 on the US chart. We are planning to use hydronic heated floors on all three levels.

What are the most common approaches for adding air conditioning to a house with radiant floors? We will have a fairly comprehensively ducted HRV/ERV system.

The house will be superinsulated (~R40 walls, R60 attic, R20-30 below grade) with southern exposure and proper window shading to limit solar radiation. Finished plans should be around 2500 sqft.

Asked By Lance Peters | Feb 5 17
3 Answers

Homemade walk-in cooler

I'm about to build a 10'x14'x8' cooler for my farm, using a 24,000btu window unit and a CoolBot to reach a temperature of 40-45F. I'm using layers of 2" eps rigid foam with foil backer (it was the best deal I could find on Craigslist) to reach a minimum of r-25 throughout, and 15 mil plastic as a vapor barrier.
First question: should the insulation be on the interior of the framed walls and vapor barrier over the insulation, or vapor barrier then insulation.
Second question: is there a way to build a foundation below grade--to avoid any steps-- without pouring concrete?

Asked By Matthew Ervin | Feb 25 17
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