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1 Answer

How to insulate a cathedral ceiling from within the rafter bays

I have a zone 7 1840s house-and-a-half style house, with the second floor walls going about 4 ft up, then sloped cathedral ceiling for another 3 ft up, capped by the flat ceiling and a 4' high crawl space attic. Essentially the second floor looks like a rectangle with the upper corners knocked off, and every surface but the top and bottom is exterior facing. So the sloped ceilings are the thickness of the lathe and plaster, the rafters, and the roof.

Asked By Terry Sharpe | Feb 24 17
1 Answer

Follow up question re: basement subfloor (climate zone 7a)

A couple of weeks ago I asked a variety of questions pertaining to my livable space basement retrofit for a 1974 home in climate zone 7a. Recap: there is no exterior foundation or under slab insulation, etc. No water penetration issues into the interior but part of the basement has shown recurring efflorescence and some spalling in a few places.

Asked By user-6759891 | Feb 24 17
15 Answers

Installing LP Smartside over foam and 24 inch centers

We’re building a new home (SW Virginia) with 2x6 studs on 24 inch centers. We had hoped to use 1.5 to 2 inches of EPS rigid foam to the exterior of the sheathing, then 3/4 inch x 4 inch plywood furring strips, then LP Smartside lap siding. We knew we had to use the 76 series Smartside product for the 24 inch centers. Then I discovered that LP’s installation instructions specify 1.5 inch x 3.5 inch furring strips for foam greater than 1 inch in thickness, so I guess that would basically mean a 2 x 4 stud for every 2x6 stud in the wall.

Asked By William Costello | Feb 17 17
2 Answers

How to insulate a shipping container home?

I would like to understand how to best insulate a shipping container home. i am thinking of building on a pier system.

Specifically I am wondering about the double sided foil such as Radiant guard that comes in both permeable and vapor barrier. Which do I put on the inside and which goes on the outside. I live in the Seattle area Marine Zone 4-5.

Asked By SirKoda | Feb 24 17
3 Answers

How to get notifications from comments

Hello GBA.

I'm getting notifications of comments to questions that I ask, but I'd also like to get notifications when from _other_ threads, especially threads that I comment on.

Is there a way to do that?

Thanks in advance!

Asked By Gerald Pehl | Feb 19 17
2 Answers

2x4 vs. 2x6 Exterior Framing

I'm planning my new home in Colorado (climate 5b). We have a very limited building envelope, and so wall thickness is of concern - complicated by the fact that my wife is set on using brick veneer.

That said, I'm going back and forth with using 2x4 framing vs. 2x6 and would love any input on disadvantages of the narrower wall. Doesn't seem like a lot, but the additional few inches does help.

Asked By Brad Burch | Feb 24 17
8 Answers

Roxul Comfortboard to create cathedral ceiling baffle?

Hi all -- thanks for taking the time to read this.

I'll be building a new home this spring in zone 6 (northern Vermont) that will have cathedral ceilings. I've read a lot about the best way to do this in my climate (thanks for all the info on this site, Martin) and I've settled on what seems like a safe bet: taped drywall and vapor retarder paint, dense pack cellulose (16" or so), homemade baffle, 2" airspace, plywood sheathing, underlayment, metal screw down roof.

Asked By Blake Cote | Feb 23 17
1 Answer

Weeping Siding

My family and I purchased a house last year in southern Maine. Over the past couple of weeks, we've had some significant snowfall followed by warmer than usual temperatures. I recently noticed that across the back of the house there are a couple spots where a rust-colored water is weeping out from beneath 5 to 6 courses of wooden clapboard siding close to where the exterior wall meets the roof. I also notice some staining along the soffit vent (photo attached).

Asked By Todd Bridgeo | Feb 24 17
6 Answers

New home wall assembly

I am currently designing a new single-family home in Northern Virginia (Zone 4, Mixed-Humid Climate) and am looking for some feedback to my tentative plans for wall and roof assemblies. I am not trying to build a passive house, just a more durable house. My primarily concern is controlling/managing air and vapor movement.

Walls: 2x6, 24" oc w/ open-cell spray foam insulation in the cavity, ZipSystem R3 sheathing on the exterior and 5/8" drywall foamed to the studs.

Asked By Michael Winn | Feb 11 17
1 Answer

Insulation under monolithic slab

I am located in climate zone 4a, but literally on the border with zone 3. Planning to build a 22'X22' workshop on monolithic slab, with vented attic. For now the building will be insulated to code for a living space, with a double insulated garage door, and rigid insulation on the exterior of the slab foundation. I believe my local codes require a 2 inch termite inspection gap between the top of the slab insulation and the bottom of the siding. I plan to heat it only as needed with radiant electric panels for now

Asked By nssimpso | Feb 24 17
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