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13 Answers

Roof / wall connection showing vent above structural sheathing

I know this has been discussed a thousand times here but each situation is unique and I find that answers seem to vary depending upon the mood of the commentator.

I had previously developed a similar detail as the one shown which had furring strips below the sheathing allowing the vent channel to run below the sheathing but I believe this introduces a whole host of problems not the least of which is an area of loose fabric above my dense packed rafters which overtime could become home to a whole host of critters which might then crawl though it.

Asked By Ethan T | Jun 15 18
0 Answers

Building Code Reqs for Stacked Window Headers, Bracing, Stucco over Foam

We are building in climate zone 5 and the county currently enforces the 2009 IBC & IRC.

We prepared a list of questions for our building inspector, some of which are location specific, but since we have gotten no response we figured some of this is probably common knowledge.

1. Do non-load bearing walls require structural headers?
2. Can vertically stacked windows of the same width share a header and king studs?

Asked By Zane Bridgers | Jun 17 18
6 Answers

Room over garage

Hi

Climate zone 4c / Seattle / New construction

We are building a new house which has a studio over the garage deck. The raised subfloor of the studio is built with 2x4 sleepers over garage deck. The subfloor sheathing for the garage deck and studio is Advantech.

How do we detail the void spaces between the sleepers? I am worried about moisture getting in there either through condensation or leaks. Currently, the plan is to fill the voids with XPS and tape the seams. However, I don’t trust this solution to get rid of all air pockets.

Asked By Jay Raja | Jun 16 18
9 Answers

Do I need an HRV/ERV for a house built in 1947?

I have a three-bedroom house, one bathroom, in Worcester, Massachusetts. It was built in 1947, and measures 1,100 s.f.

After purchasing it, I decided to upgrade the insulation in the walls and in the attic and air seal the home, and install new windows. All which was done through the Mass Save program. After completing, all the energy bills went down.

But the problem now is the house has high humidity and seems to be too tight and cause hard breathing. I have noticed mold that I did not have before. Also get headaches more often than I used to.

Asked By Will82 | Jun 14 18
3 Answers

Ceiling insulation for a room addition to my house

I'm planning a room addition, 16 x 16 with a 6/12 gable roof and cathedral ceiling, zone 6. I'm not yet committed to anything specific so would like to run this scenario by folks for advice and opinion. I'm wanting to avoid the 5-6 inches of exterior foam (R-25) that would be needed if I went that route. And, I would like to go unvented. Would the following scenario work?

Asked By Howard Gentler | Jun 16 18
9 Answers

Has anyone built a south-facing roof on a building that's 45 degrees off?

I have the opportunity to add an attached garage to my house, and I'd like to provide a plaftform for solar PV on the roof (Zone 5, NW Ohio). The existing structure (and the entire town) is oriented 45 degrees off; that is to say, the street runs northeast/southwest. I'd be attaching the garage on the side of the house that faces southeast.

Asked By Andy Chappell-Dick | Jun 16 18
5 Answers

Bonus room temperature and humidity

We just moved (CZ4, humid) and have a finished bonus room above our unconditioned garage. The insulation is poor. Heat is electric baseboard. AC is currently none. The room is not in regular use. For example, we did not turn on the heat this winter.

If the room were in use, it would be ideal for a minisplit. But, we rarely use the space. Other than a large tub of DampRid, there is nothing up there to protect the space.

What do we need to do to avoid problems from seasonal temperature swings and/or humidity? Can we simply leave it closed and locked, excepting when we have houseguests?

Asked By FrankFulton | Jun 15 18
2 Answers

Mortar bridging and droppings

General question on Mortar Bridging and Dropping workmanship.(CZ4)

Here are a few images of some brick veneer on a house. Its not mine, but it is from the builder I will be using. I've read that droppings and bridging are "bad" but I don't know what constitutes good vs typical vs poor. So I've attached some pictures to get others viewpoint on the quality of this work. There is a single layer of tyvek and then OSB behind that, and I'd say ~1" of space behind the veneer, at least where there is not bridging.

Asked By Stephen Cook | Jun 16 18
2 Answers

Second Heating and Air

Where would be the best place to install the second unit (basement, 1st floor, upstairs)?

Asked By user-7084153 | Jun 16 18
6 Answers

Horizontal roof strapping for ventilation?

Hello,
I am building a 16'x24' house in Alaska, 12/12 gable roof using 2X12 rafters, with a cathedral ceiling. A friend has recommended venting the roof by strapping the rafters horizontally with 2x4's at 16" o.c., thereby allowing cross ventilation from gable to gable. The roof would be sheathed on top of the 2x4's. I haven't been able to find any information on this technique on the web.

Asked By Justin Smith | Jul 15 13
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