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4 Answers

Should I run my water heater in air source heat pump mode during the heating season?

My husband and I live in Minnesota (Zone 4) and have a small SIP house heated primarily with a Fujitsu Mini Split. Our water heater is a GE Geospring air source heat pump water heater.

I was wondering whether it is most efficient to run the hot water during the Winter months as a straight electric resistance heater, or to continue to running it in heat pump mode.

Asked By Mikaturner | Feb 20 18
2 Answers

Slab on Grade in Climate Zone 6

Hey all,

So watching a bunch of Matt Risinger, he's always talking about slab on grade builds, and how we have basements in the far north etc. I know these topics have been brought up before.

I'm in Climate zone 6, Toronto. I'm designing a 100sqft satellite building, or you could call it a shed with all the bells and whistles of plumbing, elec, heating etc.

I'd like to do a frost protected slab on grade for this to incorporate infloor radiant hydronic heating. The slab will essentially act as the radiator, and be the base for the Insulated perimeter wood stud walls.

Asked By Jamie B | Feb 17 18
11 Answers

Casement windows?

I'm looking for highly efficient triple glazed windows with a high solar heat gain coefficient for use on the south side of a new construction home in Massachusetts (Climate Zone 5). I like Schuco windows, however, I am looking to compare with a window that performs similarly but doesn't open into the living space. Any suggestions?

Asked By Leslie Whelan | Feb 26 17
7 Answers

Innie/outie window operation

I am familiar with much of the conversation regarding thermal performance as it relates to innie/outie windows (http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/innie-windows-or-...). My concern here relates more specifically to operation of innie/outie windows as well as "middies".

My concern is as follows:

It seems that "conventional" windows on regular houses are either double-hungs, sliders, single hungs, casements, or awnings, all of which swing outward or slide in one plane.

Asked By Ethan T | Feb 20 18
2 Answers

Is PERSIST really practical in coastal Maine?

Hello, all! We are in the planning stages for building a ~1300sft home in coastal Maine (6A, I believe), and are trying to strike a balance between performance, low-maintenance and cost. We've found Persist to be an elegant solution, and we really like the look of having the exposed framing on the interior - Matt Risinger's work in Austin comes to mind.
https://architizer.com/projects/perfect-wall-house/

For us to reach the desired R values of the walls, there seems to be good details and best practices out there for fastening thick amounts of foam.

Asked By user-7005034 | Feb 21 18
8 Answers

Fiberglass window choices for new build in Colorado

Hi everyone,

We are building a new home in Colorado, 7100 ft, south facing, energy efficient, single story. That is the short story. We are only considering fiberglass windows. The choices are Alpen 525, Marvin Integrity, Miguard Ultra and new to list Kolbe Forgent. In terms of energy efficiency: U, SHGC, VT the best is Alpen, made just outside of Denver, but no local vendor. The rest have local vendors for support.

Asked By LYDIA SEGAL | Feb 19 18
10 Answers

How exterior air seal at chimney to wall interface? Chimney spalling.

Hello,

Using a FLIR One, I've found a major source of air leakage into my house from around the fireplace mantel. Using a homemade blower door and a smoke pen I've discovered that the air is in fact entering from the exterior chimney to sheathing interface. While I've been able to find extensive discussion and documentation on this site how to handle through attic air gaps for a chimney, it's been less clear to me how to handle this detail on the exterior wall to chimney brick intersection.

Asked By Mike McLaine | Feb 18 18
9 Answers

Lessons learned from exterior basement insulation retrofit

Hello,
I've attached a link to photos and comments that I created to share my recent (last week) experience with an impromptu opportunity to add exterior insulation to a portion of my basement. Lots of things I could have done better here, but in the end I'm glad I spoke up and asked to make the house better.

Asked By Mike McLaine | Feb 3 18
25 Answers

Insulation upgrades

Hi Everyone.

Thank you in advance for your feedback, you have all been so helpful.

Zone 5A (coastal Mass) house.

I have an older 3200 sq ft home with a mix of well-pointed fieldstone foundation and poured concrete. The 1000 sq ft attic is currently air-sealed in most places, and has a mix of fiberglass batts and cellulose for about R-30. I have 10 recessed lights in attic, which have the LED airtight retrofits with gaskets, but are not covered in cellulose. The recessed fixtures are IC-rated. The remainder of the home has vented cathedral ceilings (sigh).

Asked By Justin Brown | Jan 22 18
0 Answers

Decentralized ductless ventilation system: Zehnder, TwinFresh, or Lunos?

Hi,

Background...We are building a 2000 sq ft home at 7000 ft in Colorado, climate zone 6b, with about 7000 HDD. The house will be tight but we are NOT going for any certification. It is one story, 3 bed, 2.5 bath. My spouse has lots of allergies and is opposed to duct work. As we live with doors and windows open a fair amount of the year he is opposed to adding ductwork in the house for an HRV OR ERV. Whether that makes sense is NOT the question.

Asked By User-6990904 | Feb 21 18
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