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0 Answers

Is this a sufficient wall system for my basement?

Zone 6a. One inch foundation plus type two eps foam adhered directly to concrete with PL. Seams taped and corners spray foamed. 24 oc studs with r20 fibreglass Batts. Should I include a poly vapor barrier before drywall? I've been told to omit this as the foundation plus should be sufficient enough for a vapour barrier. Also should I spray foam the small portion of exposed concrete at the top of the wall between the type two foam and the Sill plate? I should also mention it's an eight foot foundation with about six and a half feet below grade.

Asked By Mark McKenzie | Nov 20 14
3 Answers

Mod-con forced hot water system that squeals

My plumber recently replaced the boiler in my small 3-zone Colonial with a Lochinvar WHN-85 boiler with a Lochinvar SIT 40 indirect water heater. Seems to work well, but I've been having trouble with noise.

First, the boiler occasionally emitted what I called a foghorn noise out of the exhaust pipe (the plumber opined it was a French horn). The solution was to tune the mixture to the rich side of the specified range (i.e. more gas per air, and more CO2 in the exhaust), which made it go away.

Asked By Daniel Griscom | Nov 19 14
0 Answers

Vent separations and strategies.

I'm building a home where I'm venting a high efficiency propane forced air furnace, a HRV (stale indoor/fresh outdoor), an on demand water heater, and a propane dryer from a mechanical room in about 8 feet of horizontal wall area. Additionally, I'm spot ventilating a range hood and bathroom fan on adjacent walls. My biggest concern is that I have dry fresh air for the HRV. There aren't any windows to really worry about and the mechanical room is on the first floor of a two story home so I can go up with some of the vents.

Asked By Jack Nichols | Nov 20 14
0 Answers

has anyone found a window that meets passive house standards and also carries an ASTM impact rating for the 110 mph zone?

So far the only thing I find that's close is from Dynamic.

Asked By Carole Hunter | Nov 20 14
2 Answers

Options for garage heat

I would like opinions regarding options for heating a garage. I know, I know, "Why the H@!! are you heating a garage?" will come to mind for many of you. Others will agree that it saves on car repair costs, improves longevity, and allows for storage of "perishables" such as paint cans, bulk canned garden vegetables, and other things wife understandably does not want in house.

Here are the pertinent factors shaping the decision:
* Super-insulated house, Manual J heat load calc gives 12,400 BTU/h (3.6 kW) peak heating requirement (for garage alone)

Asked By Kent Jeffery | Nov 20 14
5 Answers

We ran into a few deep uninsulated roof channels

Too little to have a cellulose sub. Are you better off packing them full with pieces of fiberglass batts, or risking air movement by sliding a loose batt down? What is the R factor of hand-packed fiberglass? Thanks.

Asked By Robert Mason | Nov 20 14
1 Answer

Insulating an uninsulated Cape-style home (cathedral/knee)

Hi all, new member here; new homeowner too.

Asked By Nathan Schulte | Nov 20 14
3 Answers

Dense pack cellulose rig rental in Philadelphia area

I've decided to make a DIY attempt at installing dense-pack cellulose to a fairly small section of the thermal envelope in my home (which happens to live under a floor, well above grade). I'm looking for the highest-power cellulose blower I can rent, preferably an Intec Force 2 or better, plus a kit for reducing tube diameter to the appropriate level and providing whatever stiffness/bendiness is needed for the circumstance. Anybody know where I can rent such equipment in the Philadelphia area, preferably less than 1 hour drive?

Asked By Andrew Levitt | Nov 19 14
0 Answers

Stranded Bamboo Flooring, Is it a good choice?

We are building a home in Alabama on the coast. We have a crawlspace sealed foundation that is dehumified. We are looking at purchasing 5/8 - 1/2 Stranded, Carbonized, bamboo flooring. We are getting mixed reviews on whether this is a good choice. We've heard the following:

Pro - it's solid engineered so it can be sanded and refinished. The color is the same all the way through. Compared to engeered wood which can only be sanded and refinished once.

Pro - Harder than most woods, and compares to engineered wood in that it's harder to scratch.

Asked By Mary Smart | Nov 20 14
19 Answers

Is 1" enough?

We are constructing a home in far western SD (Climate Zone 6b)....There is a lot of bedrock here so we have opted to build a post frame (pole barn) style structure. From the outside in, our wall 'sandwich' will be
1-pole barn style tin wall covering
2-Tyvek
3- 1" Tongue and Groove XPS foam
4-Half inch OSB attached to the girts
5- 7" of cellulose filling the curtain walls
6- OSB on the shop walls and Drywall in the house.

Asked By daryl stisser | Nov 16 14
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