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0 Answers

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Of course it been a long time since then. And from being the person who found the one sardarji who made paranthas in the largest open air seafood market in Singapore, I now become the person who will experiment with all sorts of food. (Remember my tales of the hotpot in China?)

Asked By sgjjxotz sgjjxotz | Aug 4 15
2 Answers

Reduce thermal bridging

Hey Everyone,

I live in zone 4 and have open-cell foam on the underside of my rafters which will be an insulated cathedral ceiling. The rafters are 2x6, and I want to address thermal bridging while the drywall is down. I've read many other questions by other posters, and although I understand the merits of putting rigid foam on top of the roof sheathing, that's just not feasible in my current financial state. Additionally, the roof is young and in no need of being replaced. I've considered the following scenarios:

Asked By Steven Dunkel | Aug 2 15
35 Answers

It's 2015 and they still build like this...

Brand new build going up in Phoenix, AZ. What you see is completely 100% framed and ready for stucco. The missing OSB sheathing is done on purpose. They do "open framing" and only use sheathing where required. The rest is open 2x4 framing.

They will stuff R-13 batts within the 2x4 walls, staple on some building paper and then put 1" of rigid EPS on the outside and use conventional stucco to finish it off.

A recent blower door test on a home like this showed 15 air changes per hour.

ALL of the duct work and air handlers are installed in the 150F unconditioned attic.

Asked By Peter L | Jul 1 15
6 Answers

Window sizes and shapes?

Is there any rhyme or reason to window sizes and shapes? I know that bedrooms have minimum width, and area along with a maximum height above floor level for egress but other than those requirements what determines how many and how big? For "day-lighting" what ratio of window area to room area is minimum or recommended? Reason I ask: I'd like to minimize the window area on the North, East and West while maximizing South facing windows which will have appropriate overhangs.

Asked By Jerry Liebler | Aug 2 15
5 Answers

Insulating condo walls

Condo walls don't have insulation so smells and airborne sounds travel easily between units. There are gas appliances so can't get it too tight. However if there is a leak in one unit, you know pretty quickly. Condo in zone 4a. What is the best insulation for the walls to remedy this situation? Dense pack cellulose? JM Spider dense pack insulation? Thanks.

Asked By Sam York | Aug 3 15
3 Answers

Exterior rigid foam plus celluose rafter insulation questions

I have a difficult-to-insulate second floor with as-yet uninsulated side attic kneewalls and an insulated attic above most of the living space. The rest of the 1917 house has gotten lots of energy upgrades: minisplits instead of 80 y.o. furnace, 3 inches of foam under siding, etc. It's just the attic left.

Asked By arthur strum | Nov 11 14
0 Answers

best type of windows to use and brand

Hello all have question I am building a new home out side of Philadelphia zone 4a/5a and the home is a more contemporary style was thing of using fiberglass windows , can any one recommend different window brands to me and what type of windows I was looking at casement and picture windows , since the home is more contemporary there will be a lot of windows I do not know if in my area it makes sense to use triple glazed windows , the major brands in the area are Marvin , Anderson, Pella , from what I have found out Marvin is the only one that makes an all fiberglass window which is what i want

Asked By boris rubinstein | Aug 3 15
8 Answers

How can I upgrade the insulation in my walls?

Walls in my mobile home only have R-10
All values:
walls U .097 R-10.3
ceiling U .038 R-26.3
Floor U .048 R-20.8

I live in a mobile home designed for New Orleans (Katrina, FEMA trailer) yet I live in northeast Maryland (Elkton, MD). The minimum for new construction (based on my zip code) is R-13 and EnergyStar dictates R-20 (15 cavity + 5 sheathing).

Asked By Vincent Dipietro | Jul 20 15
4 Answers

Feedback on 2x8 exterior walls with 2x4 studs to limit thermal bridging

I live in Eastern Washington, Zone 5 A. 100 degrees in the summer to zero in winter with 1-3 ft of snow. I will hopefully be building a home this summer, 2016. I originally looked at SIPs but am convinced that if they are not installed perfectly I may end up with moisture problems later on. My brother suggested 2 X 8 top and bottom plates with 2 X 4 studs, (1/2 inch gap between them to break the thermal bridging), and blown cellulose insulation. Then two separate pieces of 1 inch ridgid foam insulation on the outside.

Asked By Thomas Flanagan | Jul 28 15
1 Answer

Zone 7 wall help - 2" foam exterior, 3/4" plywood to interior - need vapor retarder?

Need help on this wall. Live in far northern MN. Talked with the local building inspector and found out that he is insisting on me using an interior vapor retarder (class II) on a high-r wall that I would like to use. After 25+ years in the window/door industry and seeing the damage that a "tight" wall can do, I am trying to avoid this. Any help would be much appreciated/

Here's the rundown of the wall construction.....exterior to interior

* House wrap
* 2" insulated sheathing (XPS, etc.)
* 2x6 studs
* Cellulose fill insulation

Asked By brett mattson | Aug 3 15
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