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1 Answer

This question might have an obvious answer, but I haven't been able to dig up anything on google. If I were to purchase a tear-down property that had an existing uninsulated, fieldstone basement, what would be the best course of action to build a high performance house? Fill it in with dirt then to then create a slab on grade? Tear out the fieldstone and use the existing cavity to create an insulated basement (while also hopefully re-using the fieldstone on site for something useful like a wall)?

Asked By Ethan Fahy | Jul 21 14
1 Answer

I'm evaluating blown cellulose vs. blown fiberglass (Knauf Ecofill). The Oak Ridge study is often quoted regarding the drop in R-value of blown fiberglass when the temperature differential is high. However the tested fiberglass density (.4 - 5 lb/ft^3) is much lower than the newer fiberglass.

Asked By Neil Weinstock | Jul 21 14
1 Answer

I'm in the planning stages of a remodel and need to make a decision about cooling.

Asked By Eric West | Jul 21 14
3 Answers

Spa covers are very expensive, and very short lived, because they are made of vinyl that tears and expanded polystyrene that absorbs water. Does anyone have any with experience or thoughts on building a spa cover? I was thinking marine plywood and EPS.

Asked By william goodwin | Jul 21 14
14 Answers

Hello,

I'm looking to pour a basement slab as follows:

6" washed 3/4" stone- compacted
2" XPS
vapor barrier

Next I'd like to tie the PEX to mesh and pour. That's the problem. Masons hate this, PEX can get cut when control joints are cut. Chairs holding up the mesh just get crushed or are a trip hazard.

If the PEX is attached to the foam, not thinking you can put the vapor barrier over the foam / PEX, plus the PEX is under 4" of concrete, and I understand it should be within the 4" of concrete.

Seems this very point is a sticking point in the overall theory.

Asked By Ted White | Feb 23 14
13 Answers

I have a 2300 square foot colonial, built 1960 in Zone 5A, and I'm looking to replace the boiler with a direct-vent mod/con boiler, with indirect hot water. Goals would be increased efficiency (which isn't just about saving money), reliability, low maintenance, and retiring the current chimney flue.

Asked By Daniel Griscom | Jul 19 14
1 Answer

Hi

I run the Twike on my farm and charge it for a couple of hours. My farmhouse is medium big with 4 kw solar panels installed atop roofs. With the roofs facing towards south, the energy production is prolific when there's much sun, I must say. I also have a 1 kw immersion tank that runs on solar power. Recently I came across this switching device called solarimmersion. Has anyone installed it? How can the power management get efficient with this? Any ideas?

Asked By kiel bolt | Jul 21 14
5 Answers

You've seen my posts elsewhere on this forum: I'm shopping for a new gas FHW furnace with indirect domestic for my 2200 square foot Massachusetts colonial. I want a good, efficient, direct vent furnace. My gas use suggests that I don't need more than 28kBTU/hour on the coldest winter days, so my current 95kBTU/hour output boiler is three times what I need. Almost everything I've read here and elsewhere agrees with this.

Asked By Daniel Griscom | Jul 20 14
2 Answers

Hello,

I so wanted an energy efficient home. I specified that when we began the remodel. All of the new windows are energy efficient, as are all of the appliances, and I am thankful for that.

But to my disgust, the insulation that I requested for my remodel was not installed and the walls are up. My home is a penthouse in a 1970s brick building in Barcelona. It is on the 9th floor, and has no common walls. 3 sides (north, east and south) are fully exposed. The west wall is partially exposed and has minimal protection because about 75% of it faces an light well.

Asked By Gary Oliver | Jul 20 14
4 Answers

Hi,

I moved into a new house in Asheville, NC about a year ago. The house is very well sealed and has a Venmar Kubix ERV. In the summer, though, it tends to get really humid inside the house (anywhere from 55% to 75%). Is this normal in houses with ERVs? Is there an adjustment I can make on the ERV to fix this? I'm new to the ERV concept and need some help! Thanks in advance!

M.

Asked By Mickey Belcher | Jul 19 14
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