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1 Answer

exterior finish on 1850s farmhouse

I've got an 1850s farm house I'm in the process of renovating. The house needs considerable exterior painting.

Do you all have recommendations on the best exterior finishes for an old house like this? I could shingle instead of painting, for example, or strip and stain.

I'm hoping to create the most energy efficient old house possible with minimal future upkeep. Paint seems to need redoing quite frequently, and other possibilities would be welcome.

Thanks,

Ilmari

Asked By DJ Polojarvi | Apr 30 16
0 Answers

roofing and insulation on old house

I have an 1850s farmhouse I'm renovating. To insure good insulation, I had the attic rafters spray foamed with closed cell foam about four inches deep.

I'm trying to plan for an eventual re-roofing, and I wanted to know if there are any best practices I should keep in mind at that stage for eleminating any issues that might arise from the spray foaming. The old roof has a few layers of shingles on it.

Is there a recommended roofing type for this situation? Any ventilation issues I can helpfully prevent moving forward?

Thanks,

Ilmari

Asked By DJ Polojarvi | Apr 30 16
0 Answers

High humidity in spray foam attic

Hello all,

Last fall I had my attic spray foamed. Warm temperatures have arrived and I am experiencing higher than anticipated temperatures and humidity in my attic.

I have 3 main questions (pertinent details follow):

1. Is a semi-conditioned attic RH in the 60 - 70% range cause for concern?
2. Should my attic be 10+ degrees warmer than the interior? It will get much warmer here in the coming months and I am worried that the attic temperature difference will grow.

Asked By Nic Smith | Apr 30 16
4 Answers

Insulating floor of mudroom before closing it off

I'm building 5' by 8' mudroom addition where there previously had been a dilapidated porch-like structure. I've poured the foundation and secured the sill. The concrete foundation is about 5 inches above soil, then 6 x 6 sill. I will be framing the floor with 2x 6. I'm stuck with these dimensions because of grade etc. This "crawl space" is NOT connected the the main house's crawl space and will be 100% inaccessible once the subfloor goes down. Also, foundation is non vented.
Anyway- the plan is to-

Asked By Joseph Moore | Apr 29 16
2 Answers

Another cathedral ceiling and insulation

Greetings, I have a home in climate zone 4c that desperately needs some insulation, last summer I was seeing 90+ interior temps. And burn 4 plus cord a year to stay warm.

Built in 1954, the whole house is vaulted ceilings. All 2x8 cavities, 16" oc. There is continuous soffit venting and no ridge vent. About 2" batt insulation.

I plan to reroof to achieve the r value I want. My plan was roxul mineral wool r30 batts in the bay's, resheet roof with zip sheeting, followed by 3" polyiso.

Asked By Scott Brzoska | Apr 29 16
12 Answers

New slab with radiant heat

As part of our remodel north of San Francisco (ZIP code 94941), we are converting about 700SF of our lower level into living space. The existing slab has been removed we excavated a few additional inches to increase our ceiling height, and we are getting ready to put back a new 5" slab, in which we will also add radiant heat tied to the rebar.

Asked By Torsten Budesheim | Apr 22 16
9 Answers

Hot water heating

Need some advice on my domestic hot water plan...
very long and narrow ranch house... well water. good pressure..

Master side of the house has Master bath. (with soaker tub), 3 other full baths and a half bath.... all fairly close to each other...

kithcen side is very far away.. (75-100 feet away) ... has a full bath , half bath, and kitchen sink...and a washing machine.

On Master side i am planning on a large heat pump water heater( i have a good utility room for it) attached to a manifold with 1/2 lines to showers, 3/8 lines to sinks and toilet.

Asked By Dean Sandbo | Apr 13 16
1 Answer

Green Building Advisor Q&A

Thank you to those involved with the elimination of all of those asian-alphabet, unreadable, virus-like comments that had taken over this site this past week. I enjoy checking out the question section of this site when time allows, and when I saw those "comments" I moved on to other things. THANK YOU !!!

Asked By KEVIN ZORSKI | Apr 29 16
2 Answers

Using below grade SIP for full basement

We are planning our single level lake home in northern Minnesota. 1200 sq. ft. walkout. 11000 HDD Zone 7.

I'm fully aware of the traditional basement options; block, poured, and ICF their plusses and minuses having worked in the masonry field when I was younger.

Question: Has anyone had any experience using SIP's for below grade?

Thanks!

Steve

Asked By Steve Lenertz | Apr 12 16
3 Answers

Is this my best foundation choice?

First off, Green Building Advisor has been invaluable in my research to design my future home and have found it well worth the membership cost. So thank you, to all you who have made this site what it is.

I am planning on building a 1700 sq ft ranch style straw bale house near Cortez Co (climate zone 5B). Currently I am sketching up layouts, making lots of notes on building techniques, choosing home fixtures (doors/windows), HVAC systems and researching different build options, before I take my plans to an architect so he can refine and incorporate them.

Asked By Ken Hodge | Apr 29 16
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