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3 Answers

Moisture control / insulation for new cinder block shop with loft / den.

Hello Folks

I've been reading through the forums for an answer to this question, but haven't been successful in finding one. I'm building for the first time, so this is a learning curve for me.

I live in west Florida, and have a project in the works. I'm going to be building a 55ft x 38ft workshop, that will be 2/3 work space, and the remaining 1/3 will be a loft / den living space with a small kitchen, laundry area, and bathroom. So around 1400sq ft. I am planning on controlling climate with a 3 air handler mini split system.

Asked By brew0688 | Apr 24 17
3 Answers

Cape Cod attic — cellulose machine

My finished attic in my cape cod has terrible temperature regulation up here in central Maine. So far I've put 1 inch foam between the floor joists sealed the gap with foam. I've also spent days air ceiling the upper attic. Next step is for me to dense pack the sloped ceiling, which is made up of 2x8 rafters. I'll be using accuvent cathedral ceiling extensions to provide ventilation. The sloped ceiling is about 5.5 feet long so I'll be connecting two of the vents together and stapling at either side. The house is about 34 feet long and I have slopes on either side.

Asked By SciFiJock | Apr 25 17
4 Answers

Manufactured foundation drains, e.g. Z-Drain

Our builder wants to install the foundation drain on top of the footer instead of alongside of it. We complained that this would potentially give us a line of standing water above the footer/foundation wall joint (though it would remain some inches below the basement slab level. ) We will have Tremco Tuff n Dri waterproofing all along the wall and along that joint, so if it does a perfect job indefinitely then we should be fine. But if not, we could get some wicking up that wall.

Asked By William Costello | Apr 26 17
1 Answer

Linseed oil paint--your experience wanted!

Through the years there have been a couple mentions of the stuff (Allback, Viking--old school linseed based paints) on the Q+A section here, but to date I haven't seen any candid reviews or recaps of folks' experience.

Asked By jonathan nagar | Apr 26 17
4 Answers

Tar Paper vs Red Rosin Paper

I'm having hard wood floors fixed and the contractor wants to use Tar Paper vs. Red Rosin Paper. Is one more health-safe than the other?

I'm very sensitive to smells and chemicals. We had Fiberlock put down on the subfloor that I was sensitive to. The contractor said the Tar Paper would serve as more of a vapor barrier to it, but i don't want to add more chemicals if Tar Paper is less safe than Red Rosin. Thanks!

Asked By Masb H | Apr 26 17
7 Answers

Deep blown in cellulose for attic - questions

I have a few questions regarding deep (beyond R60) blown in cellulose for an attic. Cellulose is relatively cheap and I'd like to maximise my attic insulation without causing any other issues:

1. Several manufacturers of cellulose insulation have depth/R-value charts that stop at R60. Is there any practical reason for this, or is it just because most people don't bother going above R60?

2. Does compression above a certain depth negatively affect the performance of the insulation in any way? I.E. does your R-value/$ go down appreciably beyond a certain depth?

Asked By Lance Peters | Apr 24 17
16 Answers

All-electric vs. natural gas in Zone 2

I'm building a house in Houston, Texas. It will probably be a 'pretty good' house - dense pack cellulose and exterior rigid foam installation with an encapsulated attic and targeting an ACH50 of <3 with an ERV system for ventilation. I will have a sizeable solar PV array on the roof - 6-8 kw so I have been debating whether to use natural gas as in my current house for multiple appliances or go all electric. Pros and Cons as I see them are:

Benefits all electric:
No standing monthly charge of $25 for gas since consumption is below threshold 9 months of year

Asked By user-6822325 | Apr 22 17
15 Answers

Raycore - is it the product for me?

I was pretty much on board with buying Raycore for the 4500 s.f. home I am building in downstate NY, which is steel framed, so I actually don't need any structural value out of the exterior walls other than for supporting the windows and doors (and supporting the walls themselves). I am also going with a wire lathe and stucco on the exterior - Raycore told me I could direct apply the wire lathe and did not have to use any sheathing if I did not need the shear strength, but I am hesitant to do so.

Asked By Joe McCarthy | Jul 14 14
1 Answer

Can rigid foam insulation be used on brick and mortar walls?

Hello, I am looking to finish my basement. I live in Chicago. 2/3 of the wall is poured concrete foundation. The top 1/ 3( which is mostly above grade) is brick and mortar. The brick and mortar section is also recessed from the face of the poured foundation by about 2in. I was orginally thinking of using ridgid foam but now after research I feel unsure about which type would best in my application. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you , Steve

Asked By sburban | Apr 25 17
1 Answer

Should I place a vapor barrier on an inside wall?

I have built a wine room and have been advised that I should create a vapor barrier on the walls outside the wine room since I do not want water vapor to seep through the walls when the cooling is running. Is that correct.advisable? I live in New Mexico and have had a smaller wine room for eight years with no discernible problems and am wondering if I should do that. Also, I have been advised to place a vapor barrier on the outside stucco walls as well. Any comments and advice would be welcomed
Thanks.
SABAWA

Asked By Sabawa | Apr 26 17
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