Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!


0 Answers

I am considering a double wall construction

I am planning to build a house in Charleston, SC (Hot -Humid Climate) and would like to get as close to Net Zero as possible. I think mini-splits will work but dont know if double wall construction is the way to go. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!

Asked By Rick Fetter | Oct 30 14
3 Answers

New siding/windows and rigid insulation - need some advice

We have a 46 year old house that we have renovated extensively inside and are now planning a major exterior renovation for the spring. We live in Newfoundland, Canada and are in Zone 6.

Asked By Chris Stoodley | Oct 29 14
3 Answers

A very low addition...

We've been contracted by a repeat client to build a small dining room addition (11' x 12') attached to a contemporary ranch in Maine. Due to very difficult access issues, the addition has to be supported on sonotubes. Bottom of joists (2x10 with fg batts) will only be 2-3 inches over grade.

Asked By ron letourneau | Oct 29 14
13 Answers

Closed crawlspace with dehumidifier and foundation insulation

I am still in the planning stages of building my new house. I would like a closed crawlspace (I'm in a mixed humid climate) with a dehumidifier and foundation wall insulation. See page 35 (which is actually page 41 on the pdf page counter) http://www.advancedenergy.org/portal/crawl_spaces/pdfs/Closed%20Crawl%20... for a sample design of what I'm going with. I have two main questions about this design choice:

Asked By Michael Geoghegan | Oct 27 14
1 Answer

How to seal 4" EPS foam at slab edge (radon concerns)?

Basement concrete 4" slab to be poured on top of 10mil poly, 4" EPS (2 layers staggered seams), and gravel at bottom with perimeter drains connected to vertical radon vent pipe. Building in a high radon zone, will the poly be sufficient covering the 4"x4" foam perimeter strips not covered by concrete at the slab edge? Should I be tapering the foam edge instead of keeping the full width of 4"x4" strips?

Asked By e c | Oct 29 14
102 Answers

Water - The Wonder and the Danger

We live on a watery planet. 70% of the earth's surface is water (the same percentage of water in our bodies). It is the font and sustainer of life (SETI looks for water on other planets as the sine qua non of life). So why have our modern "green" building practices turned it into a monster? And how can we stop fighting it and turn it back into an ally?

Asked By Robert Riversong | Nov 28 10
5 Answers

Brick veneer wall assembly and basement insulation techniques?

I am currently in the process of having a home constructed in Western KY zone 4. The basement floor and walls have been completed.
Background:
-walk out basement
-poured walls
-capillary break was NOT installed between footing and wall structure
-minimal external insulation on poured walls (5/16" foam board to protect waterproofing)
-vapor barrier was installed above gravel bed before floor was poured.
-no insulation below slab

?1. how will the lack of a cap. break affect my options for basement insulation (basement will be finished)?

Asked By Jeremy McGill | Oct 28 14
5 Answers

R-35 wall assembly for a 4C Marine climate zone

I am about to build on a 85" rainfall, 6000 HDD and no cooling system (I can withstand a little heat in summer)
http://en.climate-data.org/location/147654/

I'm thinking of (from outside in)
* 1" wood siding
* 1" of air gap with 1x3" furring
* asphalt paper as WRB and air barrier
* 3" 2pcf EPS as R10 sheathing,
* A 10" double frame wall filled with a total * of R-24 polyester insulation
* asphalt paper as air barrier and vapor retarder
* 3-4" interior wood finish

(see attached image)

Asked By Jose Castro | Oct 29 14
6 Answers

100-year-old single-pane windows, storm windows with low-e, or interior panels?

1. Is Low-E a good choice for all windows, or should it be selected for certain windows according to their location?

2. Is there any unbiased performance data available for storm windows? In particular Larson windows? I have found an interior panel (link below) that claims a U-value of .29 and has achieved Energy Star recognition. Can a Single pane, low-e storm window do a better job? I think it's worth noting that a single pane storm being mounted on the outside of a 100 year old window frame may reduce drafts entering the window frame area more than an interior panel.

Asked By b l | Oct 29 14
4 Answers

Climate Zone 6: Low-slope warm roof materials / assembly

I am designing a large mono-pitch shed roof in Climate Z6. The slope is 1.5 in 12 or about 7 degrees. A ventilation space seems impossible due to the scale of this roof plane. 60 feet sloping up and about 25 feet wide. I would like the finished roofing to be standing seam metal as the roof is visible from various vantage points on the property.

It my understanding that we will need to install a high-temp waterproof membrane like Grace Ultra over the entire roof sheathing to prevents leaks. This means the roof assembly is only able to dry to the inside.

Asked By Meri Tepper | Oct 29 14
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!