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1 Answer

Home energy monitoring programs

I am building a net zero energy home to Passive House standards in the Seattle area. In addition to having it be as efficient as possible, my goals were to use renewable materials (no foam), eliminate thermal bridging. have a protected air-barrier and to keep the OSB warm. I'm using dense packed cellulose in the R-50 walls and R-85 roof (cathedral ceiling with parallel chord trusses). The wall assembly is a double stud system with an inner 2x6 load bearing wall and an outer 2x4 wall.

Asked By Gerald Blycker | Nov 21 14
4 Answers

Dryer vent in air-tight Passive House

I am building a house in the Seattle area to Passive House standards. After spending countless hours sealing every crack, seam and penetration to achieve under 0.6 ACH, creating a 4 inch diameter hole in my air barrier pains me. I've looked into condensing dryers that are used in some European Passive Houses, but they seam to take much longer to dry and use lots of water. Since I will be installing a vented dryer (unless someone can come up with another solution), are there ways to make the dryer wall vent more air-tight when the dryer is not in use?

Asked By Gerald Blycker | Nov 21 14
6 Answers

Options for garage heat

I would like opinions regarding options for heating a garage. I know, I know, "Why the H@!! are you heating a garage?" will come to mind for many of you. Others will agree that it saves on car repair costs, improves longevity, and allows for storage of "perishables" such as paint cans, bulk canned garden vegetables, and other things wife understandably does not want in house.

Here are the pertinent factors shaping the decision:
* Super-insulated house, Manual J heat load calc gives 12,400 BTU/h (3.6 kW) peak heating requirement (for garage alone)

Asked By Kent Jeffery | Nov 20 14
1 Answer

Vent separations and strategies

I'm building a home where I'm venting a high efficiency propane forced air furnace, a HRV (stale indoor/fresh outdoor), an on demand water heater, and a propane dryer from a mechanical room in about 8 feet of horizontal wall area. Additionally, I'm spot ventilating a range hood and bathroom fan on adjacent walls. My biggest concern is that I have dry fresh air for the HRV. There aren't any windows to really worry about and the mechanical room is on the first floor of a two story home so I can go up with some of the vents.

Asked By Jack Nichols | Nov 20 14
3 Answers

Insulating an uninsulated Cape-style home (cathedral/knee)

Hi all, new member here; new homeowner too.

Asked By Nathan Schulte | Nov 20 14
5 Answers

Detail for stone veneer

I am looking for a wall framing detail that includes a stone veneer face over 1" ridged insulation. It seems to me that after a rain screen detail over the rigid, the next surface would be OSB or plywood that metal lath would be adhered for applying the stone veneer? So the assembly would be 2x6 stud wall, OSB, WRB, 1" ridged insulation, rain screen (lath, Coravent, etc), 1/2" plywood, metal lath, stone veneer.

Asked By Robert Holland | Nov 16 14
29 Answers

Trusting a heat load calculation & downsizing...

I'm replacing my furnace & had a Manual J-based heat load calculation done by a reputable person using the Rhvac software. I paid a sizable amount of money for this heat load to be done - but I was tired of going to contractors who relied on rules of thumb & made educated guesses based on experience. I just want the concrete numbers to back up any claims.

Asked By Jeff Watson | Nov 15 14
1 Answer

Has anyone found a window that meets passive house standards and also carries an ASTM impact rating for the 110 mph zone?

So far the only thing I find that's close is from Dynamic.

Asked By Carole Hunter | Nov 20 14
1 Answer

Dense packing an eyebrow roof

I have a small eyebrow roof below a shed dormer on the back of my cape style house. The dormer runs for about 25 feet across the back of the house. The roof is attached to the wall studs instead of using the proper construction which calls for the wall to be sheathed first and then the eyebrow rafters attached to a ledger board across the sheathing. I have batt insulation in the wall that is exposed to the roof and to the soffit vents that are cut into the eave below the eyebrow.

Asked By Michael Lee | Nov 21 14
2 Answers

Is this a sufficient wall system for my basement?

Zone 6a. One inch foundation plus type two eps foam adhered directly to concrete with PL. Seams taped and corners spray foamed. 24 oc studs with r20 fibreglass Batts. Should I include a poly vapor barrier before drywall? I've been told to omit this as the foundation plus should be sufficient enough for a vapour barrier. Also should I spray foam the small portion of exposed concrete at the top of the wall between the type two foam and the Sill plate? I should also mention it's an eight foot foundation with about six and a half feet below grade.

Asked By Mark McKenzie | Nov 20 14
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