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0 Answers

Bowed Gable End

Today we got 18/19 trusses set and somewhat braced, more to go on bracing.

The problem we ran into is that the gable and would meet the wall in the middle, but both ends were off the walls. The walls are straight and flat.

I pulled the gable down and snapped a chalk line along the bottom of the bottom chord, and found that the center was lower than the ends by a good 3/4".

Having never set a pre-buiilt gable truss, I would think that it would be nearly impossible to load the top chord enough during installation to push the bow out.

Asked By Mike M | Jul 24 16
4 Answers

Preferred underlayment under metal on unvented roof?

Hi Everyone,
Need to make a final decision on which underlayment to use under a metal roof on an unvented roof system. The roof is currently built as follows: Beams on 5' centers; 1 1/2' T&G decking; 3/8" plywood diaphragm - seams taped; with TriBuilt granulated self adhering underlayment on top of the plywood.

Next I'll be screwing down 5 1/2"RayCore SIPS panels over heated space and framing boxes over the eaves covering everything with 5/8" CDX. Still looking at metal roof products but am zeroing in on a high seam (1 3/4") snap lock system. Roof pitch is 2/12.

Asked By Robert McKee | Jul 23 16
3 Answers

storage space in attic vs living area

Hi.

I have an old, leaky house and dream of a new energy efficient home of about the same size (1200 sf). Right now we use the attic and knee walls for storage. From what I have read, it is no longer considered energy wise to use attics in new homes. But, if we loss that space (and won't have knee walls), we will have to build more square footage to accommodate our stuff. That does not seem particularly green. Please advise.

Asked By Jen Weaver | Jul 24 16
8 Answers

How should I heat my water?

Hi there. I'm just starting a major renovation of a two story studio space attached to our detached garage to be used as a studio and sometimes guest house. We're adding water and septic to the house, and I'm looking for ideas on the best way to get hot water. We'll only have a single bathroom with shower, and a small wet bar sink on the same wall as the bathroom, so there are no long pipe runs. Usage will be infrequent but once in a while fairly aggressive if we have guests there who need to take multiple back-to-back showers.

Asked By Curtis M | Jul 17 16
9 Answers

We are building a 700-sq.-ft. cottage on southern Vancouver Island, Zone 4 Marine

The plan is to use 4 inches polyisocyanurate - R22.6 - (glass fiber covering) exterior insulation no sheathing except for earthquake walls. No insulation in the 2x4 wall cavities, tyvek on the exterior of the foam and vapor barrier between the polyiso and the framing. ls this ok or will we have problems. We have to present our wall assembly plans to the city and the city wants a vapor barrier but we are not sure if this is necessary.
Sandra Garraway

Asked By Sandra Garraway | Jul 22 16
1 Answer

Air space required for ge geospring hybrid electric heat pump water heater?

I'm interested in going to a heat pump water heater and looking at the GEH50DFEJSR geospring model. I see in the manual it says it needs a 10×10x7 room or louvre door or duct kit. I'm curious if a vented pass thru to a larger room works the same? Kinda like a cold air return. The room is 8x5.5x8 and would rather not put a louvre door up. Any recommendations? Anything else I should know before purchase?

Thanks so much!

Asked By Stephen Audretch | Jul 24 16
9 Answers

Will positive pressure work to vent an attic (i.e., blowing air in)? Attics exhaust fans are a bad idea. But what about blowing air in (using positive pressure).

My father is interested in removing heat from his attic to try to keep the upstairs of his house somewhat cooler. I have advised him that generally speaking, attic fans are a bad idea, which he has come to terms with. However, with that understanding that creating negative pressure in the attic can cause all kinds of problems (sucking out air from the conditioned space, possible back-drafting of combustion appliances, etc.), he has come up with the idea to blow air into the attic instead (i.e., creating positive pressure) to force the hot air out.

Asked By Erica Downs | Aug 12 12
52 Answers

Questioning my logic...GSHP, ASHP, radiant?

I'm in the planning/almost ready to break ground stage of a new home and I'm beginning to question my sanity when it comes to figuring out the right approach for heating & cooling.

The home is:
North end of Climate Zone 5
Main Floor: 1700 sq ft + 1000 sq ft garage, vaulted ceilings through much of it
2nd Floor: 1100 sq ft (2 bedrooms, 2 baths, living room) primarily over the garage
Basement: 1700 sq ft, partial walkout + 1000 sq ft shop under the garage (separated from the rest of the basement)

Walls: R30+ (2x6, 2" XPS outside, 2lb SPF for sealing + 1/2lb SPF for cavity fill)

Asked By Dave De C | Jul 16 16
4 Answers

Looking for design software recommendations

Hi -

I'm a new member and I'm looking for recommendations for relatively easy-to-use design software (I did try searching the site but didn't find anything discussing that). My first task will be a simple floor plan so I can ask the good folks here for advice on placing mini-splits. Further down the road, I'd like to be able to draw out details for roof and wall assemblies for the retrofits I hope to do. Any then maybe a tiny house (or at least a tiny shed) in the future.

Asked By Nickolas Van Kleeck | Jul 23 16
14 Answers

Unvented cathedral ceiling — insulating from above

I am re-doing my family room roof, which is a cathedral ceiling.

Since the roof is being re-shingled, I thought it a good time to remove the sheathing and lay down some closed cell foam. I have some unopened from a previous project

Everything I've read about unvented Cathedral ceilings talk about them drying from the inside. Obviously this can't happen if I'm spray in the closed cell foam onto the dry wall ceiling from above

The ceiling is 8" from drywall to plywood

Asked By Paul Buchkowski | Jun 25 16
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