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0 Answers

Green Building Advisor Q&A

Thank you to those involved with the elimination of all of those asian-alphabet, unreadable, virus-like comments that had taken over this site this past week. I enjoy checking out the question section of this site when time allows, and when I saw those "comments" I moved on to other things. THANK YOU !!!

Asked By KEVIN ZORSKI | Apr 29 16
0 Answers

Another cathedral ceiling and insulation

Greetings, I have a home in climate zone 4c that desperately needs some insulation, last summer I was seeing 90+ interior temps. And burn 4 plus cord a year to stay warm.

Built in 1954, the whole house is vaulted ceilings. All 2x8 cavities, 16" oc. There is continuous soffit venting and no ridge vent. About 2" batt insulation.

I plan to reroof to achieve the r value I want. My plan was roxul mineral wool r30 batts in the bay's, resheet roof with zip sheeting, followed by 3" polyiso.

Asked By Scott Brzoska | Apr 29 16
2 Answers

Using below grade SIP for full basement

We are planning our single level lake home in northern Minnesota. 1200 sq. ft. walkout. 11000 HDD Zone 7.

I'm fully aware of the traditional basement options; block, poured, and ICF their plusses and minuses having worked in the masonry field when I was younger.

Question: Has anyone had any experience using SIP's for below grade?

Thanks!

Steve

Asked By Steve Lenertz | Apr 12 16
8 Answers

Best wall system for Vermont?

I am building a modular home in Chittenden County Vermont and have been debating what type of wall system and insulation combination will be best. There are three wall systems under consideration, but I am open to alternatives.

1) 2x8 framing 16" on center with Roxul cavity insulation (R30) and Thermalstar sheathing w/1.5" EPS foam (R7.5) for total R-value of 37.5.

2) 2x6 framing 16" on center with Roxul cavity insulation (R24) and 2" polyiso rigid foam (R13) for a total R-value of 37.

3) 10" double stud 2x4 wall, BIBS cavity insulation and Zip sheathing for total R-value of 39.

Asked By Craig A | Apr 29 16
6 Answers

Any vented attic air sealing tricks? And recommended R-values? Blown fiberglass?

I am building a home in climate zone C4 and am getting ready for insulation at last. I have wrapped the house with a layer of 1" xps already, but am getting ready for the rest. The local insulation contractor is pushing blown fiberglass over blown cellulose, what do you guys think about this, I have heard it settles less. Most of the house has cantilevered scissor trusses. Do you guys have any good practices for air sealing around all of the electrical lighting boxes (not cans) that I have installed in the ceiling?

Asked By Kail Zuschlag | Apr 28 16
5 Answers

Roof structure, insulation and lighting

I am planning a new home in northern Idaho climate zone 6 and have some questions regarding the roofing structure/insulation and lighting within this system. this will be a mostly cathedral ceiling with a flat part across the middle in which I intend to put the lighting and ceiling fans. The thought is to keep these items out of the insulated roof. It will be a non vented roof. I have attached two drawings to help illustrate my thoughts. I would like to build the roof as follows from top to bottom:
1. Dutch Seam metal roofing
2. 2x4 furring strips

Asked By Kyle Rice | Apr 28 16
25 Answers

Transoms and Ductless Minisplits

Hello,

I am trying to heat and cool my second floor with one 12,000 btu ductless minisplit. I have heard that this is possible if I keep the bedroom doors open during the day to facilitate circulation of the hot or cool air.

However, does it get uncomfortable quickly in the night when the doors are closed. If so, I was thinking of putting in operable transoms over the doors. The only problem is they are kind of expensive (~$275 from transomsdirect.com). Attached is my floor plan. I will be putting ceiling fans in each bedroom so maybe the transoms would be overkill?

Asked By Jimmy Nguyen | Mar 10 16
1 Answer

Is this my best foundation choice?

First off, Green Building Advisor has been invaluable in my research to design my future home and have found it well worth the membership cost. So thank you, to all you who have made this site what it is.

I am planning on building a 1700 sq ft ranch style straw bale house near Cortez Co (climate zone 5B). Currently I am sketching up layouts, making lots of notes on building techniques, choosing home fixtures (doors/windows), HVAC systems and researching different build options, before I take my plans to an architect so he can refine and incorporate them.

Asked By Ken Hodge | Apr 29 16
2 Answers

Finishing a damp basement

I have a client that lives in an early 1900's home here in Minneapolis. Her current foundation is stone not block and is quite rough on both sides. She wants to finish the inside of the basement and add framed walls and drywall. She gets a minor amount of dampness on the wall and it is virtually impossible to waterproof this wall since it is such a rough stone. She does not get standing water but just dampness on the wall a times.

Asked By Chris McGuire | Apr 29 16
12 Answers

Insulating cathedral ceiling

I have a late 1970's contemporary home that has non-ventilated cathedral ceilings that do not connect to a ridge vent - they do have sofit vents but don't see how that helps. From the middle of the house there is a 2nd floor where I can get to the point where these roofs join and can see there is little to no insulation. I believe I can remove what is there with extension poles.
My question: What are my insulation options. I assume some type of insulation that can be sprayed (foam or wet ?)

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

Asked By Dan Colucci | Apr 21 16
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