0 Helpful?

Is this too much door sill cantilever?

I've got a thick siding profile, so my door sill is going to cantilever out 5-6" past the framing.
I'm not sure how to best anchor a stone, or hardwood sill considering the potential weight of foot traffic.
I could pour a concrete sill over anchors epoxied into the stem wall, but it may look weird.

Those with exterior foam walls and rainscreens might run into a similar issue?

I've got:
2x6 wall
1" sheathing
1" furring
2" thick clapboard profile
1" trim (installed over claps)

siding-layout.04.jpg40.31 KB
Asked by Richard Baumgarten
Posted Dec 18, 2012 12:52 PM ET

Tags:

6 Answers

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.
1.

Richard,
A couple of things look wrong to me.

1. It appears to me that the clapboard siding is not drawn to scale.

2. Why is the storm door proud of the siding?

Answered by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor
Posted Dec 18, 2012 1:33 PM ET

2.

Clapboards are rough 1x6, with a 1" lap. I confirmed the scale. The sheathing and furring are 7/8", maybe that's what your seeing.

I'm installing the trim on the clapboards, and the storm door is fixed to the trim, so it ends up being outboard of everything.

Answered by Richard Baumgarten
Posted Dec 18, 2012 1:47 PM ET

3.

You really should not install the trim on top of the clap boards...leaves holes hard to caulk....Install the trim around the door, then install the siding, butting to the trim....make sure the siding is not going to be proud of the trim. You may need to use thicker trim or just strap the back of the trim. This reduces the thickness of the opening and depth of threshold. Up in the GWNorth we often install screen doors on the trim. As for the cantilever...how deep is the threshold of the door?

Answered by T Shepp
Posted Dec 18, 2012 1:54 PM ET
Edited Dec 18, 2012 1:56 PM ET.

4.

Richard,
If all you are worried about is supporting foot traffic, I don't think you need to worry. If you install a 5/4 x 12 oak sill, you should be fine. (If you're worried, buy a piece of 2x12 oak.) Screw the sill to the 2x6 plates with stainless-steel screws. Countersink the screws and install glued oak plugs.

Answered by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor
Posted Dec 18, 2012 1:56 PM ET

5.

T Shepp: I'm partial to the side lap created with trim over siding, but understand most siding installations are done as you advise. Threshold will likely be a stainless saddle type...still shopping.

Martin: I don't think there's much oak of that size around here (Ontario), but I'll find something. I'm starting to feel guilty for all the free advice you've given me. THANKS!!

Answered by Richard Baumgarten
Posted Dec 18, 2012 2:47 PM ET

6.

Richard,
If you are north of the oak line (I am), and you insist on using local lumber, use sugar maple or yellow birch.

Answered by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor
Posted Dec 18, 2012 3:02 PM ET

Other Questions in Green building techniques

Insulate ducts in conditioned basement?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked by Jeremy M | Jul 27, 15

Insulation for condensation control changes from IRC 2009 to 2012

In Building Code Questions | Asked by Tom Frisch | Jul 26, 15

Pretty Good House in Iowa

In Green building techniques | Asked by Thomas R | Jul 27, 15

We were looking to replace our front door which has 2 flanking sidelights

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked by Christian Rodriguez | Jul 27, 15

Flogging the half dead vapor barrier horse…

In General questions | Asked by L. M. | Jul 26, 15
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!