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6 Answers

Zone 7 wall help - 2" foam exterior, 3/4" plywood to interior - need vapor retarder?

Need help on this wall. Live in far northern MN. Talked with the local building inspector and found out that he is insisting on me using an interior vapor retarder (class II) on a high-r wall that I would like to use. After 25+ years in the window/door industry and seeing the damage that a "tight" wall can do, I am trying to avoid this. Any help would be much appreciated/

Here's the rundown of the wall construction.....exterior to interior

* House wrap
* 2" insulated sheathing (XPS, etc.)
* 2x6 studs
* Cellulose fill insulation

Asked By brett mattson | Aug 3 15
3 Answers

Heating system advice for zone 7 new build

I am building a home in Grand County Colorado, climate zone 7 that will be used as a vacation/ second home for my family and as a rental property when we are not there. It is still in design but the plan is around 3,000 SF on 2 stories plus around 1,500 SF basement, R35 walls/ R75 roof/ triple glazed windows. The property does not have natural gas service but does have electrical service and we plan put in a propane tank.

I am researching different options for heating and DHW, cooling will not be required.

Asked By Chris Armstrong | Aug 4 15
0 Answers

Final advise on insulating a basement correctly

Hi I’ve read the great articles here on how to insulate the basement correctly - I just want to make sure I'm going to do the work right and I trust the folks at GBA

Overview

• Southern exposure home – south has 2x6 pt walls with a few windows and doors (basement level)
• North has an 8ft concrete wall that behaves like a huge cooler – it also has a 24inch 2x6 pt wall on top of that, so the basement ceiling height is 10ft.
• In the worst heat in summer 90 degrees + the basement is extremely cool with the windows closed – just like air conditioning

Asked By Robert Metelsky | Aug 4 15
0 Answers

Hot Water Heater using the boiler

using my boiler that has a heating coil and is plumed into the hot water tank-- my hot water is coming out brown looking and sulfur smelling but not bad --just brown colored-- can the coil be bad?

Asked By Chris Kennedy | Aug 4 15
5 Answers

Best type of windows to use? And brand?

Hello all have question I am building a new home out side of Philadelphia zone 4a/5a and the home is a more contemporary style was thing of using fiberglass windows , can any one recommend different window brands to me and what type of windows I was looking at casement and picture windows , since the home is more contemporary there will be a lot of windows I do not know if in my area it makes sense to use triple glazed windows , the major brands in the area are Marvin , Anderson, Pella , from what I have found out Marvin is the only one that makes an all fiberglass window which is what i want

Asked By Boris Rubinstein | Aug 3 15
4 Answers

Reduce thermal bridging

Hey Everyone,

I live in zone 4 and have open-cell foam on the underside of my rafters which will be an insulated cathedral ceiling. The rafters are 2x6, and I want to address thermal bridging while the drywall is down. I've read many other questions by other posters, and although I understand the merits of putting rigid foam on top of the roof sheathing, that's just not feasible in my current financial state. Additionally, the roof is young and in no need of being replaced. I've considered the following scenarios:

Asked By Steven Dunkel | Aug 2 15
3 Answers

What size stone should be used over the 4" perimeter drain line?

What size stone would you recommend using over the 4" perimeter drain line?

Thank you

Russell Drollinger

Asked By Russell Drollinger | Aug 4 15
10 Answers

How can I upgrade the insulation in my walls?

Walls in my mobile home only have R-10
All values:
walls U .097 R-10.3
ceiling U .038 R-26.3
Floor U .048 R-20.8

I live in a mobile home designed for New Orleans (Katrina, FEMA trailer) yet I live in northeast Maryland (Elkton, MD). The minimum for new construction (based on my zip code) is R-13 and EnergyStar dictates R-20 (15 cavity + 5 sheathing).

Asked By Vincent Dipietro | Jul 20 15
4 Answers

Exterior rigid foam plus celluose rafter insulation questions

I have a difficult-to-insulate second floor with as-yet uninsulated side attic kneewalls and an insulated attic above most of the living space. The rest of the 1917 house has gotten lots of energy upgrades: minisplits instead of 80 y.o. furnace, 3 inches of foam under siding, etc. It's just the attic left.

Asked By arthur strum | Nov 11 14
6 Answers

Insulating condo walls

Condo walls don't have insulation so smells and airborne sounds travel easily between units. There are gas appliances so can't get it too tight. However if there is a leak in one unit, you know pretty quickly. Condo in zone 4a. What is the best insulation for the walls to remedy this situation? Dense pack cellulose? JM Spider dense pack insulation? Thanks.

Asked By Sam York | Aug 3 15
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