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5 Answers

I am about to start framing up walls for my woodshop. The existing slab slopes from back to front a total of about 4" over the length of 28'-0"....yes, 4". The concrete crew did a terrible job. I need some advise on the best/most efficient way of dealing with this slope in the slab when framing the walls. I feel a tight connection with a PT sill plate to the slab is crucial. So, I could:
1) Frame walls square on ground and then deal with space between PT seal plate and bottom plate of wall with large shims. Doing this though, I worry about a good connection to the sill plate.

Asked By Zane Morgan | Jul 23 14
3 Answers

Which type of spray foam is recommended, open or closed-cell?

I'm about to remove my blown-in insulation out of the attic, and I was trying to figure out which product is recommended -- the open or the closed-cell?

Asked By TERRY KELLEY | Jul 22 14
7 Answers

I am in the process of fine tuning the details of a one and a half story house I would like to build next year. It will be in Northern New York on the border of the 5A and 6A climate zones The upstairs has a knee wall and a couple access doors to the attic space. I think I have decided to just run the zip-system up the walls and around the top of the roof rafters to simplify the air sealing.

Asked By Dillon Vautrin | Jul 23 14
3 Answers

Given all the complex issues covered on this site, this question might seem rather pedestrian....

I am not going to change out the doors on my house, but I would like to get them more airtight. In particular, I have two sliding patio glass doors, and my front door is a wood double door that has one door latched into the other (double swing in without a jamb piece between the individual doors).

Asked By Steve Young | Jul 23 14
1 Answer

(Examples of what I am referring to can be seen at: http://vastern.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Splayed-cladding-detail.jpg AND http://www.bartonqualitytimber.co.uk/images/categories/chestnut%20claddi... )

I am not terribly conceded about the cedar: if it is stained all 6 sides with two coats and placed on black painted strapping, then it should handle the elements reasonably well. My main concern is what the substrate behind it should be.

Asked By Burke Stoller | Jul 18 14
2 Answers

I am looking to use a detail similar to 4-05055 - metal roof/unvented/cathedral/exterior 4.5" rigid insulation. I have a few questions on the assembly:
1- are the layers of rigid insulation adhered together?
2- what type of fasteners are being used to go thru the first layer of sheathing, thru 4.5" insulation, 2nd layer of sheathing and into rafters? spacing? (I am located in NY - 90 mph ground wind)
3- do you know a relative comparison between this detail and using a SIP panel - cost? installation? structural?

Thank you!

Asked By Linda Zwart | Jul 23 14
2 Answers

Thanks Mr. Holladay for responding to my question however I don't think I was clear with my question. I wanted to remove the floor installation it my atic and replace it with foam installation between the rafters. I've heard many different things about open & close cell that I didn't know what was true or false. What is recommended for the atic ceiling, open or closed cell. What is R value and what number should I try to accomplish with the R value.

Asked By TERRY KELLEY | Jul 23 14
4 Answers

Has anyone recently imported high performance windows to Canada? I'm currently looking at both Canadian and European windows for a house in southern Ontario and would be very interested to hear about any experiences, good or bad, that the GBA community has had.

On a side note, the Canadian market for high performance building products seems so small that finding local dealers for many products seems tough. Other than ordering from Small Planet Workshop or Four Seven Five, are there any good sources out there?

Asked By Graham Fisher | Jul 22 14
1 Answer

I am having a new outside air conditioner and a new 2 stage gas furnace put in. My mobile home is from about 1977. It has 1440 sq. ft., floor (out flow vents) & ceiling in flow vents. The present duct work is inaccessible. There is an old 4 ton elec. A/C unit and an old - maybe 100,00 BTU gas furnace. Neither one is efficient. My place is probably not very air tight Don't know about the insulation. I think I live in zone 3C (about 2+ hours N.

Asked By JOANN CORTINA | Jul 22 14
1 Answer

I have a roofing / deep energy retrofit question. I'm just beginning a deep energy retrofit as a retirement home on a permaculture garden-farm project in northern Alberta, Canada (ASHRAE Zone 8). Tomorrow we are moving a 42’x28’ bungalow 200 km.

As it needs a new roof (old shingles are stripped to sheathing and house tarped at old site), the current plan is to chainsaw the eaves, then apply air/vapour barrier, insulation (either Roxul ComfortBoard or EPS) to exterior walls, preserving as much interior space as possible.

Asked By Janet Blayone | Jul 22 14
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