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12 Answers

Metal siding — window head flashing detail

OK this keeps resurfacing so I thought I would see what others have come up with. When using metal siding (corrugated or sim.) dealing with the window head always seems to be a bit of a conundrum.Typically I see a piece of "J" flash utilized. But this usually points up, which may conceal the cut of the cladding panel, but consequently also catches water. Seems wrong. I have been trying to come up with an alternative and drew the attached, but surely someone more intelligent than I must have devised a better solution for this issue ?

Asked By Erik Lobeck | Mar 21 17
5 Answers

Ideas for this floorplan Pt. II

....and I'm back! The system wouldn't let me reply to my own thread. It kept marking my reply as spam.

It's been a while since I posted an update to my thread but here it is.

I have processed all of the feedback given to me and applied this to my original wants. The idea is an open plan, living areas to the south, concentrate plumbing in one area, large master with walk-in shower, tub, master bed with walk-in closet, large kitchen, et cetera and this is where I am. I moved the master closet back up to the north wall again and I've added lots of other closet spaces.

Asked By Drew Baden | Dec 14 16
3 Answers

FPSF: Wing insulation with sub-slab insulation

Hi,

For a frost protected shallow foundation, I was wondering whether folks who use sub-slab insulation also like to include wing insulation? Code doesn't require both.

I would expect that the wing insulation raises the temperature of the soil under the edge of the slab toward the deep soil temperature. This ought to have an impact on energy loss through the bottom of the slab, but is it significant?

Are there any studies that show the thermal gradient under an insulated slab, and how it's affected by the addition of wing insulation?

--John

Asked By John Ranson | Mar 23 17
8 Answers

Material for preventing thermal bridging at steel beams and columns?

I have seen drawings showing an insert at the base of steel columns and where a steel beam bears on the top an exterior concrete stem wall (or in a beam pocket) that is intended to reduce thermal bridging at those points.

Does anyone know where to get this sort of material? A local structural engineer mentioned a carbon-fiber product that is quite expensive. He didn't think it would be worth the bother and expense. Anchor bolts (2 to 4) at each point will bypass the thermal break material.

Asked By Pat Kiernan | Mar 17 17
3 Answers

Need Roxul cover be entire to act as a rain screen?

In Zone 4, (Lawrence Kansas) we are rebuilding an 1883 house. For reasons of cost we have chosen not to take off the exterior clapboard, instead we are fitting 1.5" of high density Roxul between the studs and against the back side of the sheathing to provide a rainscreen. On top of this we will spray a thin layer of high density foam before blowing in another layer of dense pack cellulose to slightly built out studs.

Asked By Sacie Lambertson | Mar 23 17
1 Answer

Insulation of mobile home

We are renovating a 1976 single wide trailer. We have removed all the interior wall and ceiling panels. Currently the walls have the pre-existing pink fiberglass insulation and the aluminum siding, on the ceiling there is the same insulation and then plastic sheeting. We would like to add additional insulation before we drywall. We have looked into double bubble foil insulation, but then read an article on here as to why that would not be advised. What is the best product to provide more insulation that would resist mold/moisture from developing?

Asked By rich78 | Mar 23 17
5 Answers

How to detect a roof leak after having the underside of the roof deck sprayed with closed-cell foam?

I live in Buffalo, NY, and am renovating a Cape Cod style home. The interior is completely gutted and had a roof tear off and GAF system installed with no ventilation, with the plans for having the deck sprayed with closed cell. I had a question that no one up here can answer...

As the roof fails or if there is some sort of damage, how will I know if the underside is 100% sealed? My fear is the water will rot the rood substructure and hold mold. Is there any way to create a path for any potential leaks to follow??

Asked By cheezlo | Mar 22 17
4 Answers

ERV and flex duct

We're planning to install a Renewaire EV90P ERV with dedicated ductwork in our new 1900 sq ft home. It's going to be a budgetary strain to install hard pipe for all the entire system. So I'm hoping we can get away with a rigid duct for a trunk (running parallel to floor trusses) and then 6 inch flex duct going out to the exhaust and supply registers (through the webs of the floor trusses) - this is what the HVAC contractor is recommending, but I'm concerned about this small unit being able to handle the additional resistance to air flow from the flex duct.

Asked By William Costello | Mar 22 17
1 Answer

Timber vs concrete uppermost ceiling

Price not being a factor, does either of these options have any significant advantages or disadvantages over another?

I'm building a 2 story brick and concrete house, but am considering of going with timber ceiling under the roof (which could also end up being flat roof).

The local price will be the deciding factor, but only if there are no serious drawbacks to the timber construction.

So, what gives, if anything?

Sound insulation should not be an issue since it's uppermost?
There is not much difference in thermal insulation?

Asked By davor radman | Mar 23 17
3 Answers

Exterior foam and Roxul batt on a reno

Have a client who has an older house he just purchased . Scarsdale NY . He intends to put 1" rigid foam outboard of the sheathing with Tyvek behind and 1x strapping to attach siding .

Interior first floor walls are 2 x 6 , second and third floor are 2 x 4 . Question 1 is what R value Roxul should he use in the 2 different wall assemblies ?

Second question is , is Tyvek the right product to use as the only barrier between the sheathing and exterior ?

Asked By Richard McGrath | Mar 22 17
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