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3 Answers

How much insulation for a steel beam?

How much insulation do I need over a steel beam to stay above the dew point inside the house?

This is new construction in progress, in NC. The I beam is over a door and window assembly and contained within the wall, sandwiched between the sheathing and drywall. However, no consideration was given to insulating it in the design.

Asked By Jeremy Turner | Oct 22 16
2 Answers

Domestic hot water power demand is no longer an issue?

Traditionally, heating and cooling requirements have been the largest energy draw in homes. The ability to relegate heating and cooling to 2nd or even 3rd place in a home energy draw hierarchy is now possible with better building techniques, such as PH. It has been generally agreed that the new king of the draw is DHW. However, I wonder if that is still the case now that HPHW systems have hit the market. I live in a heating dominated climate. The maximum heating demand allowed per PHI is 4.75 KBtu/SF or 5.2 KBtu/SF per PHIUS+ for my climate zone.

Asked By Jonathan Lawrence CZ 4A New Jersey | Oct 22 16
0 Answers

water furnace 7 series desuperheater

So i am in the process of having installed 3 water furnace 7 series with desuperheaters. Trying to figure out hot water options. Main side of the house, Im thinking a marathon storage tank heated from the desuperheater. This would feed a 80 gallon heat pump water heater.

Asked By dean sandbo | Oct 23 16
2 Answers

Siding with a step

I have an addition that I have added to my home and am now in the process of finishing up the furring for the rain screen and getting ready to install siding.

The issue I've run into is that I am using vinyl siding to match the original house, but the addition has a basement and the main portion is slab on grade. Because of this, the addition has a rim board that extends roughly 12" below the original slab/sill plate line.

When I go to install vinyl siding the starter strip on the old portion will not line up with the addition.

Asked By Mike M | Oct 22 16
5 Answers

Reducing wintertime ventilation

I have an Ultra Aire ventilator and dehumidifier (80 cfm) and a Panasonic ERV (20 cfm) that deliver outdoor air into my 3,200 square foot home. The Ultra Aire is installed in the basement and dumps air into a space near the central air handler. The Panasonic is on the second floor.

During the cooling season, I can easily maintain indoor humidity between 40% and 50%. During the winter, levels typically are in the mid 20% to 30% range.

Asked By Steve Knapp | Oct 22 16
12 Answers

Air to water heating: flat plate with water storage or long copper pipe in water storage?

in an effort to make our house more comfortable, and to eliminate the drift of air we currently are in the opportune to raise the living room floor with a sub-floor and by doing so, include in-floor radiant heat.

plan is to:

raise living room floor (440 SF) by about 14 inches, with standard plywood and 2x12 timber.

on top, install R10 EPS insulation with 5/8 PEX/O2 barrier 6 inches on center, encased in 2.5 inches of sand/cement and 15 mm laminate flooring

Asked By Kevin Kersten | Oct 22 16
4 Answers

Zone 3 minimum wall assembly

New construction proposed 2x4 wall assembly.
Latex paint, 1/2" Sheetrock, BIB fiberglass, OSB, Tyvek wb,1" gap, stone or smart siding.
Doesn't this just meet the minimum requirements in Zone 3?

Asked By Mike Beckham | Oct 22 16
15 Answers

can you create a blog on infrared heating panels?

People would benefit from knowing how infrared heating panels are more efficient, comfortable, and safer than conventional heating methods.

Asked By Iona Jonasson | Oct 19 16
4 Answers

Zone 3 roof dampening concern unvented attic

New home construction - roof design
asphalt shingle, 30# felt, OSB, 5 1/2" open cell foam. Should I be concerned about the design causing moisture problems over time?


Asked By Mike Beckham | Oct 22 16
17 Answers

Best building envelope approach for an owner-built home in northern Wisconsin?

Setting the Stage:

My wife and I purchased a vacant farm (no buildings) with a south-slope in far Northern Wisconsin and have been planning our next home for a few months. We would like to build a "pretty good house" that finds that happy place between great energy efficiency and economy. This would be an owner-built home on a basement foundation. Our forest has plenty of millable pine and oak that we intend to use as much as possible for the build (framing, siding, flooring, etc.).

Asked By Michael Sterner | Oct 17 16
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