Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!

3 Answers

Ever since I got new windows, doors and a vent put in, it is freezing, there is an awful draft

Ever since I got new windows, doors, and a vent put in, it is freezing, there is an awful draft, and even when the fire is lit it is cold. I cannot keep the heat in the house even with the fire and radiators going. There is no heat staying in. I can feel a constant draft blowing all the time.

Asked By jenny sinnott | Jan 23 15
26 Answers

Closed crawlspace with dehumidifier and foundation insulation

I am still in the planning stages of building my new house. I would like a closed crawlspace (I'm in a mixed humid climate) with a dehumidifier and foundation wall insulation. See page 35 (which is actually page 41 on the pdf page counter) http://www.advancedenergy.org/portal/crawl_spaces/pdfs/Closed%20Crawl%20... for a sample design of what I'm going with. I have two main questions about this design choice:

Asked By Michael Geoghegan | Oct 27 14
1 Answer

Wood stove — outside air necessary?

I'm buying a used woodstove and replacing the earth stove I have now. The present stove has a pipe from the bottom of the stove that goes through the floor to draw in outside air. The new stove only uses indoor air...a coonara.

I live in a mobile home that is OLD 1973 but mobile home standards (not by my lifespan but hey...)

Please let me know if you think I MUST have outside air to be healthy and safe?


Asked By path star | Jan 22 15
19 Answers

Can brick/stone veneer coexist with double wall construction?

Before I started reading articles here on double walls and dew point issues in the OSB/Plywood sheathing I had intended the following wall construction on a 10" foundation (4" ledge + 6" concrete) wall - 3" stone veneer, 1" drainage plane, Tyvek, plywood sheathing, 2x6 load bearing wall, 2" inch XPS layer, 2x4 interior non-load bearing wall, drywall. Forget all that now.

Clearly that plan was a disaster waiting to happen in that the sheathing would run afoul of the guidelines regarding proportion of exterior insulation with respect to insulation inboard of the sheathing.

Asked By Alex House | Jan 9 15
0 Answers

Mud sill seal

In the FH article about air sealing a mud sill they used a EPDM product. The mud sill was 2x6 but it looked like they used the gasket intended for 2x4 material. I believe the product is available in both 2x6 and 2x4 widths and was wondering why the intended product was not used. If the 2x4 gasket is acceptable it would save some $.

Asked By Robert Brown | Jan 22 15
0 Answers

curious about anyones experience with zip system liquid flash

I'd like consider this with my zip project, just seems to me a liquid applied sealant like this would be less vulnerable to any long term failure (possibly with tape). I know martin did a tape test some ago, but again i have had quite a bit of hands on with the tape and im not all the way there that its a 30 year product. Im also curious whether or not there is a primer option that might insure optimum adhesion.

Asked By kevin freeman | Jan 22 15
14 Answers

HRV as sole means of controlling interior humidity - fail!

I've got one year of data in my new house, and I'm not pleased with the HRV's ability to lower interior relative humidity. I'm hoping folks with more experience can clarify which is more flawed: my mechanicals or my expectations.

Asked By Andy Chappell-Dick | Jan 4 15
0 Answers

Foundation Details


New to here and appreciative of all the learning I've done pouring over all the info.

I have a couple questions related to designing the foundation for my home.

I want to have a perimeter concrete foundation (either frost-protected or to below frost line, haven't decided yet) and ideally a finished earthen floor on grade for passive solar use (and less hard on the feet than concrete). I'm wondering about a couple of the details:

Asked By Moses Draper | Jan 22 15
6 Answers

Is the Airtight Drywall Approach obsolete?

After months of reading blogs here, I was just about sold on using the airtight drywall approach for all areas of my home that were to be re-drywalled. The main area being the entire attic ceiling which will then have cellulose blown in above it and vapor barrier paint applied over it. After asking my builder and insulator to use the Air tight drywall approach (and offering to pay a significant premium to do so), the insulator sent me this article: http://foursevenfive.com/4-reasons-why-airtight-drywall-is-obsolete/

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Jan 21 15
3 Answers

Sulphates in cellulose insulation

I'm within a few weeks of dense packing the walls of the house I'm building with cellulose.

The installer uses cellulose with a "blend of non-corrosive borate and sulphate fire retardant additives."

Should I have any concerns about the sulphates? I'm waiting to hear back from the manufacturer about which sulphates are used.

Any other things to look for (or avoid), with respect to cellulose, would be much appreciated.

Asked By Graham Fisher | Jan 22 15
Register for a free account and join the conversation

Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!