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14 Answers

Hello,

I'm looking to pour a basement slab as follows:

6" washed 3/4" stone- compacted
2" XPS
vapor barrier

Next I'd like to tie the PEX to mesh and pour. That's the problem. Masons hate this, PEX can get cut when control joints are cut. Chairs holding up the mesh just get crushed or are a trip hazard.

If the PEX is attached to the foam, not thinking you can put the vapor barrier over the foam / PEX, plus the PEX is under 4" of concrete, and I understand it should be within the 4" of concrete.

Seems this very point is a sticking point in the overall theory.

Asked By Ted White | Feb 23 14
13 Answers

I have a 2300 square foot colonial, built 1960 in Zone 5A, and I'm looking to replace the boiler with a direct-vent mod/con boiler, with indirect hot water. Goals would be increased efficiency (which isn't just about saving money), reliability, low maintenance, and retiring the current chimney flue.

Asked By Daniel Griscom | Jul 19 14
1 Answer

Hi

I run the Twike on my farm and charge it for a couple of hours. My farmhouse is medium big with 4 kw solar panels installed atop roofs. With the roofs facing towards south, the energy production is prolific when there's much sun, I must say. I also have a 1 kw immersion tank that runs on solar power. Recently I came across this switching device called solarimmersion. Has anyone installed it? How can the power management get efficient with this? Any ideas?

Asked By kiel bolt | Jul 21 14
5 Answers

You've seen my posts elsewhere on this forum: I'm shopping for a new gas FHW furnace with indirect domestic for my 2200 square foot Massachusetts colonial. I want a good, efficient, direct vent furnace. My gas use suggests that I don't need more than 28kBTU/hour on the coldest winter days, so my current 95kBTU/hour output boiler is three times what I need. Almost everything I've read here and elsewhere agrees with this.

Asked By Daniel Griscom | Jul 20 14
2 Answers

Hello,

I so wanted an energy efficient home. I specified that when we began the remodel. All of the new windows are energy efficient, as are all of the appliances, and I am thankful for that.

But to my disgust, the insulation that I requested for my remodel was not installed and the walls are up. My home is a penthouse in a 1970s brick building in Barcelona. It is on the 9th floor, and has no common walls. 3 sides (north, east and south) are fully exposed. The west wall is partially exposed and has minimal protection because about 75% of it faces an light well.

Asked By Gary Oliver | Jul 20 14
4 Answers

Hi,

I moved into a new house in Asheville, NC about a year ago. The house is very well sealed and has a Venmar Kubix ERV. In the summer, though, it tends to get really humid inside the house (anywhere from 55% to 75%). Is this normal in houses with ERVs? Is there an adjustment I can make on the ERV to fix this? I'm new to the ERV concept and need some help! Thanks in advance!

M.

Asked By Mickey Belcher | Jul 19 14
4 Answers

I have a weirdly designed house.

The attic in the lean-to addition has 2x6 joists (actual 2x6 - old wood). The joists sit directly on top of the wall framing for the ouside wall, and extend outward from there. They're notched to sit flat on the outside wall header. - there's less room for insulation there, as teh joists are no longer the full six inches.

There was never any room for both insulation and ventilation, so we have a 'hot roof'. It was created using three sheets of XPS foam sandwhiched together, and sealed with copious amounts of canned sprayfoam.

Asked By Anders Ufland | Jul 15 14
5 Answers

Hi everyone. I just purchased a property in western Massachusetts zone five a. I am planning to renovate the existing 24 x 60 barn for use as a year-round workshop. The building is slab on grade with 2 x 6 framed walls 24 inches on center, sided with rough pine board and batten nailed to the studs and bracing. Currently, there is a bit of air exchange between the interior and exterior due to some of the battens pulling away from the nailers.

Asked By Benjamin Jones | Jul 18 14
3 Answers

Hi, I am building my first house, what a project that has turned out to be but that's for another day. Anyways, our great room has scissor trusses for a nice pitched ceiling. I would like to have at least 24" of insulation to keep things nice and toasty in the winter. There is a 4' overhang outside on either end. I nailed a 24" high plywood leaving a vent space above where the red is on the layout. My question is what material and how to go about it. To use the high density cellulose is has to be contained by some mesh? Any input appreciated.

Asked By Tom Smith | Jul 19 14
6 Answers

I am considering the purchase of Intus eForte windows for a new house. The windows would have be transported over several mountain passes up to 11,000 ft and then be installed at 7000 ft. This would require pressure relief valves that would vent the argon gas. Does this degrade the performance of the PH certifide window and would it become uncertifided?

Asked By Chuck Jensen | Jul 17 14
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