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1 Answer

Hi everyone,

I'm looking at caulking the corners of the floor of my tile shower and looking into using AFM Safecoat Caulking Compound vs Eco-bond kitchen/bath. Has anyone had any experience with either product and would you recommend/not recommend either?

thanks!
Lee

Asked By Lee Taylor | Dec 30 13
9 Answers

This letter to the editor was published in our local paper:
________

Energy efficient AC units may cost more in the long run

I'm a contractor who was an engineering professor at A&M. I'd like to address the issue of air conditioning efficiency.

For some people, efficiency seems to have religious overtones. If you just want to be cost effective, the higher efficiency model may be more expensive in the long run.

BTU has suspended its rebate program while College Station Utilities continues its program, but has raised the minimum SEER energy-efficiency rating from 14 to 15.

Asked By Hugh Stearns | Aug 8 14
8 Answers

In reading various posts, I have noticed some innuendos and outright comments regarding the difficulties of installing windows and doors in framed walls with out-sulation and double stud walls. Being a novice at best, I would really love to hear opinions about the trials and tribulations involved. To structure the discussion a bit, please assume two wall designs.

Design 1: Drywall, 2x6 24” OC studs filled with R-23 MW batts, taped plywood sheathing (air barrier), 3” MW, WRB, furring, siding.

Asked By Rob Shuman | Aug 11 14
1 Answer

Hi there, I laid some engineered wood flooring on concrete with Mapei Ultraplan M20 self-leveling compound over a week ago. The bags said zero VOC premixed.

There was an awful sweet/fruity chemical smell when I mixed it. I called Mapei and they said it would go away when dry.

However, the smell is still here. I would have thought the underlayment (AirGuard Roberts 3-in-1) would cut the smell but it's bad.

I need to level plywood subfloors upstairs to finish this job and wondering if anyone can recommend an equivalent product that doesn't stink.

Asked By Brooke Beloso | Aug 8 14
1 Answer

I am about to install solar panels at my home. I want to do mini-splits in my house, but because if have a Cape with many small-ish rooms, I would need multiple indoor units. I live in Central VT, so the hyper heat units would be the way to go (it is cold here). However, apparently I can only do one indoor unit per outdoor heat pump on the current hyper technology. I've been told that Mitsubishi has the technology and will release it to the market any day.

Asked By DANIEL GOTTSEGEN | Aug 12 14
1 Answer

Client wants to move Hot Tub indoors into it's own 9x9 room. Whole house HRV will be running continuously; I will add dedicated exhaust fan; considering Panasonic Whisper, but have no idea how much ventilation will be needed to exhaust moisture when tub cover is off. Suggestions?

Asked By Bob Irving | Aug 11 14
4 Answers

From all the reading I have done, am I correct that I don't want to use closed-cell and need to use open-cell spray foam in the band areas of floor joists of the basement to 1st and 1st to 2nd floor areas when I have used polyiso sheathing on the outside of the walls?

I believe that is correct because of the perm is so low for the polyiso and you don't want to use another very low-perm product like closed-cell spray foam sandwiching the Zip wall sheathing. I'm just confirming if I read everything correctly.

Asked By john bell | Sep 19 12
6 Answers

For a ventilated crawlspace in a small house near (relatively humid) Asheville, NC, which would be better, Roxul ComfortBatts between the floor joists, or Roxul ComfortBoard nailed to the bottom of the joists, or foil-faced polyiso nailed to the bottom of the joists? Any of these choices would likely be better than the fiberglass batts that are presently hanging at weird angles. I worry about creating an empty cavity if I attach the insulation to the bottom of the joists. I'm not sure I can afford to insulate between the joists and under them.

Asked By Stuart Murray | Aug 8 14
2 Answers

For example n Santa Fe, NM (CZ 5B), where there is a significant heating load during the heating season but very minimal need for space cooling in the cooling season, would the heat loss through north facing walls be reduced enough to warrant adding more insulation to those north facing walls. I believe that may be the case.

Asked By kim shanahan | Aug 9 14
6 Answers

I have a few questions about spray foaming my attic. If I decide to move forward, the work will be done by a professional. I'm hoping the folks on this forum who are a lot more knowledgeable than I can help me with my decision.

First, some details:
- House is in Northern NJ (climate zone 6A)
- Built in the mid-1940s
- Stick construction
- Relatively simple gable roof currently covered with asphalt shingles that will probably need to be replaced in the next five years
- The roof stops at the edge of the house - there are no eaves/soffits, and thus no eave/soffit vents

Asked By Matt Culik | Aug 6 14
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