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1 Answer
2 Answers

Mitsubishi 1/2 ton head not powering up

Hello, just wondering if anyone has had any issues with a brand new Mitsubishi head not powering up. I have a 5 head system that was just started today and 4/5 the heads powered up just fine with no issues. The 5th head is not being recognized by the branch box, nor will it run in Emergency Operation Mode. There is power to the line terminals.

Asked By Mike M | Nov 12 17
9 Answers

WRB and Rigid Foam

Hi Martin/GBA Community,
I'm thinking about installing rigid foam on the exterior with "innie" windows. Would like some thoughts on this set-up, from interior to exterior

Drywall -> 2x4 wall with R-15 Roxul Comfortbatt ->3/4 exterior sheathing -> Tyvek HouseWrap -> 1" R-5 rigid insulation -> Obdyke HydroGap -> Siding

I'm not sure if a WRB behind the foam and in front of the foam is a good idea. WRB behind the foam because that's the drainage plane. WRB in front of the foam is meant to provide a small air space behind the siding.

Asked By Mdubya | Nov 9 17
5 Answers

If I had to build a stem wall for a manufactured home that was 20' x 60' what and how much would I need

a concrete stem wall for a manufactured home that is 20' x 60' - what supplies and how much of each would be needed

Asked By golfson | Nov 12 17
6 Answers

ARXX ICF versus Durisol ICF in a Mixed Humid Climate?

I'm trying to evaluate the pros and cons of using ARXX ICF versus Durisol ICF in a mixed humid climate. I've used ARXX here in North Carolina and definitely like the system. I'm considering Durisol because I would like to direct-apply a stucco finish. I'm familiar with a Durisol - type system built in a cold dry climate (Innsbruck) and it seems ideal still many years later. However, i have heard concerns about moisture in the wall assembly as well as thermal bridging in the Durisol product. I'm grateful for any help...

Asked By Randall Lanou | Feb 24 11
2 Answers

Below-grade Insulation Challenge


I have an insulation challenge.

Our home, was originally built in 1958, and is a split-level, with the lower level about 4' below grade. We're located near Denver, zone 5. We are preparing to remodel about half of the lower level, which is about 1700 in total. Construction is Brick + 2x4 exterior walls, with some 1/2" layer of insulative/reflective sheet between. For the lower level, the 8" foundation wall is about level with ground in the rear (south), but below grade in the front (north). See photo... grade is about 8" under the window.

Asked By rossn1 | Nov 11 17
8 Answers

Rate my knee wall insulation plan

Hi all,

I want to re-insulate the upper floor of my 1920 1.5 story.

Here are pics showing current configuring and my planned new configuration.

My main questions are:

1. On the short exterior walls, is it weird that the shiplap and weather barrier are installed on the inside face of the studs, which prevents me from accessing those stud bays to add insulation? Is my proposal to create a small 2x6 wall immediately inside this exterior wall a reasonable one? Should there be some sort of channel and air barrier between the insulation and the shiplap?

Asked By jmetrail | Nov 10 17
6 Answers

Steel SIPs

I know that a steel stud dosent provide a thermal break. However this company seems to have
resolved that issue.
They put 2 steel studs opposite each other on the flat, with foam in between.
Any info on this type of SIP's would be appreciated.



Asked By Brian Whidden | Jun 8 15
17 Answers

Hydronic ceiling installation (DIY)

Climate Zone: Marine 4 (Seattle, WA)
Ceiling size: 900 sq/ft
Ceiling Drywall: 5/8"
Joists: 24" o.c. 2x4
Attic: unconditioned

Current plan is to remove all old attic insulation and wood shingle roofing scraps thrown in during a previous roofing job. Then replace old knob and tube wiring with something more modern. Finally, air seal and add R-39 blown cellulose.

Asked By Brad Steeg | Oct 29 17
5 Answers

How can I address condensation in my arched cabin walls

I built a 20x24 arched cabin(Gothic arch,2 inchsteel frame, 2x4 endcaps) in 2016. We were told that the provided insulation was r-49, but subsequent conversation with the manufacturer , solar gawd, said we are more like r 30, with two layers on the outside and two layers on the inside of the cabin ribs. We planned to make the end caps r 30 but the local contractor refused to install the rigid foam we had bought so we only have r 15 fiberglass in the wall.

Asked By waterfront165 | Nov 12 17
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